And no, not in THAT way!! :smsex: It's that Zenith I picked up.

Here's what's going on:

* I popped in the new 6LF6 I got, and set the efficiency.
* The set was fine, but the HV was insane - 25-27kv!
* Fixed that - the tube retainer spring accidently got hooked on a horz tube lead that traced back to the HV adjuster pot. So, it was like the POT was pegged at max. No biggie.
* But, I've still got foldover at the right side. And I need to be about 1/4" to 1/3" wider. I think these two issues are related. Swapping the 6U10 helped a little bit.

I don't know where to look here - I'm guessing the two issues are related. one suspect is the .0015 black timebomb cap in the circuit. Or maybe an electrolytic near there. And the cap on the horz hold control.

Does anyone have a copy of the schematic for this set they can scan in or send me? I want to get this sorted out because then I can get this set 100%

Oh yeah - how the heck do I center the picture? There's no centering strings on the yoke, or centering controls on the chassis that i can find.

Thanks guys!!!

Check your horiz. out tube (hot) first. Many times NOS tubes can be gassy. If the old hot worked better as far as picture width goes, the hot is the fault.

I swapped HO tubes around until I was totally sick of that silly spring thing on top of the tube. Didn't help.

I purified and converged the set, and put it back. I think I've got a real issue in there - I'll probbably end up putting in new lytics and a few new caps before I'm done. I'm thinking there's either a bad cap or the power supply is just a bit tired. I just can't that foldover out...

I can't get the purity perfect on the set - though I think that might be the CRT, I swear that if the set runs a few hours, after I turn it off, you hear *twang!* every now and then for awhile afterward. I'm almost certain it's the mask doing bad things.

What's the availability of a 15LP22 like, anyway?

I also need to get on the roof and fix the antenna again. :sigh:

forgot to mention, check your 6CE3 damper! The damper is a very probable cause of width problems and or foldover.
The damper tube may test ok, however it may be gassy unless your tester can test for grid emission. Change it anyway to be absolutly certian.

The damper's origional to the set! Like the HO tube and practically every other tube was.

I can imagine the poor thing's a bit tired, too.

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Ooo, I'll have to try that trick. Any particular size, shape?

I think just for the heck of it, I'm going to replace the electrolytics in this set, and the few black time bombs in there. And the damper and 1/2 other tubes. Might as well do it now before a failure.

I'll try the magnet trick though. If it fixes it, I'll keep the CRT - it's otherwise rerally nice - there's no degrading faceplate stuff, though minor bubbles at the extreme edges.

I've got a Zenith 25MC30 that works fine but the purity wasn't too hot. I fixed it with a stack of about 4 magnets on the inside of the metal cabinet on one side and about 6 on a bracket on the other side. Just keeping adding magnets until its right.

Most shower curtains have magnets sewn into the bottoms so they will cling to a metal tub. Before throwing out an old curtain I cut them out. Work great for this job.

The old GE console we had when I was a kid would put Kellogg's to shame with all its snap! crackle! and popping! Never heard another set do that much.

I'm starting to think it is in fact the damper, because the width problem mostly goes away as the set heats up.

Most of the tubes in the set are 'ok', but take a while to get there. I'm replacing the damper and a slew of others that are the big 'trouble spots'. I'll get them all eventually..