Is there somewhere I can look for information on replacing a tripler? I've only done one before and it was a direct plug-in replacement. This one has posts (they look like nails) sticking up a 1/2 inch and I'm assuming I solder on the leads to them? I pretty much figured out what each connection is, but the current tripler has black stuff on each lead connection and I'm not sure what that is and it's probably necessary to insulate the new connections.

So I need to know if I solder the leads, what is that black goop, and do I put something in the suction cup before pressing in?

Thanks!

Yes, you just unsolder the leads from the old tripler, and solder them to the corresponding terminals on the new one. Make the solder connections smooth and rounded, with no sharp points.

The black goop is RTV silicone sealant, used to prevent corona. Available at any hardware or auto parts store. Get the "oxygen sensor safe" type that doesn't have a vinegar smell, as it is less corrosive to electronics.

Clean the CRT bell around the anode button before installing the suction cup connector using alcohol or acetone. It doesn't just press straight in. You hook one side of the metal spring in, then push the cup slightly to one side to compress the spring, then hook the other side in. The reverse of how it should have been removed. If the set will be in a humid area, a light coating of dielectric grease on the suction cup contact surface isn't a bad idea. Available as "spark plug boot grease" from auto parts supplier.

1) save both old parts for future testing or use.
2) no slimy crap in anode connector
3) SAMS shows both versions with & without divider
4) we got our goop from Zenith, only knew it by
part ## 205-229 someone will know. They do need
the goop, also be sure no sharp points on solder job,
make em as round as you can..

BTW those 1 & 2 hole anode connectors from Zenith are the
best you can get. 15-276 & 15-276-01

73 Zeno:smoke:

Thanks for all the great info. However, since the tripler is working and it's the divider that's leaking, I'm going to order the replacement for it. I found a place that has the NOS divider for $9. I'll keep the new tripler for the day the original one dies. This way I'll be able to keep the anode suction cup as the replacement one is crap compared to the original.

Now I don't have to mess with all the RTV on the tripler. Looks like the white focus control is soldered to the pot on the underside and the black focus is soldered to the CRT focus wire near the flyback. Not sure how red lead is connected inside the anode cap, but I'm sure it's not too hard to remove and replace as they do sell the kit to do so.

Not sure about yours, but some anode caps have a screw in the center, loosen it and pull out the wire.

dont use the seperate divider.the tripler will swap out just fine.its and easy job.take the black lead to the crt socket and put it on the terminal marked focus.terminal marked in if the lead from flyback.you really cant make a mistake here.remember to solder it neatly and use rtv on the terminals when finished.this will last for years