I don't want to gut the can and replace the innards, so how would those here go about creating something that will sit on the underside of the chassis? I have two radial and two axial caps. I know all the negatives will be tied together and the positives will be soldered to the wire leads from the canister. Other than that, I'm looking for ways you'd mount, wire and protect them from shorts.

I was thinking of shrink tubing to protect from shorts and a wire tie or two to hold it all steady. Not exactly elegant, that's for sure. I'd like to mount them to a board and such, but I'm not sure that would make life easier.

Any thoughts?

1) leave the old can in place, saves time looks better etc.
2) be sure the old can is 100% out of circuit.
3) keep the new caps near where the old can is.
Look at the terminal strips. Both ends are grounds & sometimes
there are others along the strips. Use them for your neg
connections. Sometimes there are blanks on the terminal
strips you can use as tie points. You can also make
"flying connections". Just insulate things well. Last thing is
you can install the other type of terminal strip & build it on that.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Duct tape is your friend. Otherwise, cable ties.

I use clear silicone seal to mount the capacitors to the sides underneath the chassis, or other solid objects. Just connect the negatives together, remove the wires from the positives of the old cans so their out of circuit, then use hookup wire to connect the capacitors in a convenient place under the chassis, then glue them in place with silicon seal. In one case I just simply glued the new cap along side the old can on top of the chassis, and ran the wires up top. Use pure silicone seal the type you use for like caulking windows etc. GE silicon probably is the best. Wire ties also might work in several situations.

As you didn't want to gut the can, this suggestion isn't really applicable, but I'd just hacksaw the can just above its bottom bulge (located just above the chassis), remove the guts, and use the cap terminals as tie points. This also means I don't have to undo the wires on those terminals.

I think I'm going to do the following.

Put shrink tubing on the negative leads (about 1/2" of tubing)
Twist bare negative leads into a single lead and solder
Shrink tube negative lead leaving enough exposed to solder to a ground point
Shrink tube positive leads leaving 1/2" of lead exposed of each
Remove the wire leads from the canister and slide 2" of shrink tubing over each lead (not shrinking yet)
Solder wire leads to cap leads
Slide shrink tubing previously put on wire over solder joint and shrink tubing
Insert a board standoff in empty hole near to canister
Wire tie cap bundle to standoff

Of course this might not go exactly as noted, but it seems like a logical approach and should be safe and tidy. The shrink tubing should cover leads from body of cap and all soldered connections. There shouldn't be any exposed metal to short.

I use a bone saw, cut the can at the shoulder, use a pin vise from below the chassis to drill holes from the bottom up, then mount radial lead caps from above. you can glue the cans back on if you want to look original.

I can do a 3 section in about 10min tops, uses cheaper caps,keeps lead dress orig, is less confusing to future techs trying to figure out if you did it right.

I do not need to disconnect any parts from the caps terminals this way.

All that being said, I have rarely had a tv with bad can caps from the mid 60's on, and I generally will just test them, if ok, leave them. the caps are prob better than anything you will be buying today. I know there are a lot opinions about that last statement, just my personal experience with it.

replacing caps in later model sets is not an alternative to using proper diagnostics to solve problems.

If you insist on under chassis install I would recommend installing terminal strips and trying to simulate the cap leads as close as possible to the cap, I find it more time consuming to do a neat job with term strips than the before mentioned cut off the can approach.


here is my video see about min 2.30 for can caps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgSZNrlIAPA&list=TLrn2WEmYrL2Q