http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Perforated-Sheet-5PDG9?Pid=search

was thinking of using the above to fabricate a back for this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWXbAD5eSGI

Not sure about the thickness or the hole size and spacing. anyone with one of these if you can, pls let me know the thickness of the metal and the hole size.

I really need a full size template, but don't want to bother anybody to do that. I figure I can just eye ball how it should look, but would like the correct hole size and gauge. I assume the crt neck cover is made from metal as well?

The neck cap would have been paperboard.

Try the Mcmaster Carr catalog. They have all the various sizes of this type of perforated metal in their catalog with all the specifications listed in the catalog.

I purchased a piece from McMaster Carr to make the back for a 21ct55.

thanks for the info guys.

The neck cap can be made from cardboard stock from car upholstery suppliers. It comes in the correct color and thickness, and you just cut it and fold it to be correct and original-looking.

NOTE: I've seen 7's with both metal and hardboard back covers.

Charles

The metal back on my CTC-7 Anderson measures .05" thick. Holes are .189" dia. If I can find some large paper I'll trace the outside edges and a sampling of the hole spacing. NO way am I going to trace all those holes. :no: If you were closer by I'd sell you the whole set for parts very reasonable. Unfortunatly someone necked the CRT before I got it. Original owner was storing the set with the back off.

I made a template of a CT-100 back some years ago. Just traced the metal back w/ the various cutouts and several of the vent holes on to butcher paper which is large enough and easy to obtain. Mailed it in a mailing tube. Fellow requesting it used a computer to copy the tracing dimensions and stamped/cut it out on a metal fabricator.

-Steve D.

Wow Steve, that is the way to go, seems like it would cost a fortune if you took that info to the shop.

I am thinking I can get there from just pictures, after all the only issue is the cut outs for the controls/ant/and neck. the neck I figure out, as I can with the ant, the controls are a little bit different. Its not going to be exact anyway since I have no way of duplicating the flange. I suppose I could try to form a flange by getting some sheet stock and either edge welding it or making a U shape and fitting the perm metal inside it, that seems like a lot of work for somethng that is not orig anyway.

Keven that's a sad story about the neck CRT. This one I have also had a bad CRT, the Red gun filament was out, too bad since the others tested great. I ended up installing a FBP instead of a CYP, which is a little dicey considering the location of the anode to the mount ring. Thanks for the parts offer, I would be all over it but for the distance.

Charles thanks for the tip on the cardboard suppler.

The metal back on my CTC-7 Anderson measures .05" thick. Holes are .189" dia. If I can find some large paper I'll trace the outside edges and a sampling of the hole spacing. NO way am I going to trace all those holes. :no: If you were closer by I'd sell you the whole set for parts very reasonable. Unfortunatly someone necked the CRT before I got it. Original owner was storing the set with the back off.



seems like this is the correct hole size and gauge then...

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Perforated-Sheet-5PDG1?Pid=search

I would like to get some sheet stock and spot weld this to the edges for the solid parts. Now if I only knew some one with a spot welder... nah thats going overboard, I think I will just stick with the plan of leaving the hole all the way to the edges (still notching as required).

Dave,
The edges can be turned 90 degrees with a pan-brake (sheet metal shops have these) to stiffen and keep it straight.

You may also want to look at a place in Tampa that I used for making heavy-duty cat-proof speaker covers. http://www.mcnichols.com/viewer.htm

The neck cap would have been paperboard.
Ive got two sets that need the box made up. This may be available at an art supply store but Im not sure about the metal corner braces with the holes...

well I decided to bag the fabricate for sheet stock, two reasons

1) 50$ just for the metal alone

2) Not sure if I would be happy with the results anyway.

So....

I found a back from an old console, the kind with the rectangle shaped neck cover which looks more like the orig than the later Triangle shaped covers AND its not as deep (does not need to be since the cabinet is deeper than the typical triangle shaped back cabinets.

I am nearly done with it, just have to epoxy in to small squares in the corners. I think it will look pretty good when done, I will post a video of it later. Best part is its free which appeals to my cheapness.

Still want to thank all those that took pics and got measurements, but in the end it was my uncertainty of the outcome that kept me from trying.

The metal back on my CTC-7 Anderson measures .05" thick. Holes are .189" dia. If I can find some large paper I'll trace the outside edges and a sampling of the hole spacing. NO way am I going to trace all those holes. :no: If you were closer by I'd sell you the whole set for parts very reasonable. Unfortunatly someone necked the CRT before I got it. Original owner was storing the set with the back off.

I replaced a necked CYP with an FBP in 1975, and have never had an issue with the anode arcing to the shield. I've still got it, and it's working fine with no rebuild, yet.

I'm working on my CTC-7, slowly....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF2SQDJiKP8

a video of the new back.

not wanting to leave well enough alone, I mixed up some masonite dust with some slow cure epoxy, filled in some holes, turned out well, next used some sandable wood glue and saw dust, its just not as nasty as epoxy, to fill some more and reinforce the area on the side and near one of the locating slots.