after reading AK I'm interested in old radios and stereo stuff I've had a philco 40-145 sitting in my parents kitchen for 15years lol I dug it out and plugged it in it lights up the tubes light but either I don't know how to work it (I wasn't alive in 1940) or it needs repair can not recieve station etc I have no sound at all

Welcome to AK, pal ! Yr old Philco was probly made 1939-40. I wouldn't plug it in again until you've had it checked out, you could get a nasty shock and/or ruin what looks like a VERY nice old set. All radios have capacitors & resistors in 'em; back when, caps were made out of wax & paper, & after 65 years they will undoubtedly have gone bad. Possibly a few resistors have gone out of spec, & maybe a tube or 2 has gone south as well. Just because they light up doesn't mean they're any good. I'd replace the A/C cord, too-it looks kinda iffy in the photo. More than likely, yr old Philco can be made to play again; there are several guys here that can do it for you for a reasonable fee, or if you know what you're doing, you can attempt it yrself. Be warned, though-Old radios are kinda like tater chips-nobody can stop at just one !-Sandy G.

Hey! From our conversations I could not have gotten a clue as to what a NICE set you have shown us. Only some minor dings and the grille cloth is really swell looking and the dial glass looks in good shape for a 65 year old radio...you have a great set and now the only hassles are replacing bad electronic parts. Just remember not to take any guff from the Zenith crowd :D because this is really neat! I wish my "first" set had been in such good shape, working or not.

In my opinion, you shouldn't have to always make them "showroom perfect" either. Some dings add character and giving up arms and legs isn't always worth it, unless you are doing it to sell or for someone else. But I'm way ahead of you :zoom: it's your first one. I got into this because I wanted my great-grandma's Firestone and couldn't have it.

Once again, welcome to AK...set a spell, won't ya?

The Philco service bulletin for this set (schematic diagram, parts list, alignment procedure) is on my website. You'll need to download the DjVu browser plug-in from lizardtech.com to view or print it.

My Philco Page (http://www.audiophool.cjb.net/Philco.html)

I've got one of these models and they're decent sets. Chances are good that with new electrolytic caps this thing will work. I'm a fan of Philco's, at least of this vintage. Decent performers and classic looks.

I've cleaned on it some with it being in a kitchen 15years I have a slight cooking grease problem! I really don't want to damage the looks of the unit so I haven't taken it apart yet I pulled on the knobs I don't think they want to come off!!! these have a set screw or a clip holding them on? Oh I have no Idea what I'm doing this might be to nice a radio to be working on myself I gave away a big philco about a year ago I should have tried repairing it but it was in horrible shape it fell apart loading it!!!

A jeweler's screwdriver (slotted, like you tighten your glasses up with) will often take them out. If they are stuck, slight heat from a hair dryer for short periods may loosen it enough to unscrew. Don't do that until you try a penetrant. Be careful as that plastic may be touchy.

What is affected by your grease problem and how bad? If it's hardened some, Goo Gone and other mild grease cutting products will dent that mess good. It won't go away like *magic*, it will take a little effort and elbow grease (takes some to clean some). I often hear about "Simple Green" but I don't know from experience how that does cutting grease like that.

Keep at it, you are doing well.

I cleaned most of the grease off already using a very non safe cleaner no harm done! these finishes are very tough! the pic is of it is before cleaning still looks about the same just now it doesn't fell sticky! :) and it's not as dark now ,it had some build up on the corners. since the finish is good for it's age I'm gonna leave it but I might use pledge

If your set lights up (the pilot light behind the dial comes on) and the tubes all light normally as well, but the radio still won't work, you probably have a B+ (plate supply) problem--either there is no plate voltage on the tubes at all, or what voltage is there is raw AC. If you do not know what I am talking about, stay out of the back of that radio as there are high voltages present at many points under the chassis, which can and in many cases will give you a nasty, even lethal electric shock if, for example, you touch the chassis and anything connected to earth ground while it is plugged in.

The fact that you were not yet born in 1940 has nothing to do with being able (or not) to operate your radio. Those older sets weren't difficult to operate in the least; all one had to do to turn it on was to turn the volume control knob until it clicked, which operated the power switch (it is attached to the back of the volume control and is mechanically linked to it).

The manual tuning knob works the same as any other standard radio. The most complicated feature of your Philco is the pushbutton station presets; actually, these aren't difficult to operate once set up, but the procedure to set them to your area's local stations could be tricky unless you have the instruction manual and/or schematic (wiring diagram). The procedure is different for every old radio with these preset buttons, so I'd get the manual first, before trying to set them.

Once your Philco is operating as it should (I'd check the filter capacitors and resistors first along with the tubes and paper caps, as Sandy pointed out), it will be a great set, capable of pulling in excellent DX (distance reception) when used with a proper antenna. Yours also looks as if it has at least one shortwave band, which offers its own thrills and challenges, especially at night. I am an amateur (ham) radio operator, and have heard many such shortwave stations on my own gear in the three decades plus I've been in the hobby.

I also have a small collection of old radios, the oldest being a Zenith H511 table model from 1951 and the newest, a Zenith K-731 AM/FM set from 1963, plus a bunch of '60s-'70s vintage transistor radios as well. Have been fooling around with electronics and radio since I was eight years old (I'm 48 now) and have had my amateur radio license since the age of 16, in 1972. Sandy is right; old radios are like "tater" chips--you can't stop at just one! Once you get into this hobby, you are likely going to be in it for life. I know I am.

Good luck and welcome to AK. I'm sure you'll like it here.

Kind regards,

Sweet lookin Philco! I like the front design!

As mentioned earlier, these are generally pretty easy to get working again. I worked on a Philco similar to yours (but without the pushbuttons) for a guy this past year and it came out great!

New capacitors will likely bring back it's performance. Cost of new caps might be between 10 to 20 dollars depending on what it uses. Like Sandy said... it might need a tube or two. Most of them are reasonably priced, but some do get expensive. Hopefully your set uses more common tubes.

Was noticing you're in Texas... where at? There are several of us spread out here... Corpus, Austin, Dallas, the West... and I'm near Beaumont. Perhaps one of us could give you a hand.

...since the finish is good for it's age I'm gonna leave it but I might use pledge

NO! By all means use Old English or similar if indeed it's wood. Pledge will put a buildup back on the set and you don't want that. If it's plastic polish it but not with furniture spray.

Yeah, I was thinkin' the same thing-oughta use use Old English, or maybe better yet Murphy's oil soap-especially if it's REALLY nasty. Above all else be gentle & take it easy-you ain't scouring a pot! -Sandy G.

Hey I'm in Vidor we are neighbors! ok what I know about electronics don't take it apart while it's plugged in caps go bad with age I do have a multimeter the cheapy one that does most the work for you. I did read some about tv's but when I read about discharging I chickened out! I would love to fix this thing myself or atleast do some of the work. On the finish I changed my mind I'm gonna use some sanding sealer and gloss to bring it back to life it will be a long lasting finish around 20years maybe longer! I will also spot stain and puty the bad spots the plastic on the display is yellowed badly I'm thinking lexan or some plastic from a ? whatever I can find. I did take a look at the wiring it looks ok cept parts of a red wire is cracked and 1 wire guess from ant is bad I'll post pics soon

pic 1

wiring looks decent cept the red wire

I'm missing the string and needle :(

The chassis looks pretty good. Like mentioned in prior post It would be
a good idea to replace all of the caps. Theres not that many there anyway.
Follow up by checking the resistors with your ohmeter while your at it.
Then it would be a good idea to go through and have the tubes checked.
Then you can go through and clean the switches and controls.
Do not attempt to align or make any adjustments untill all of these areas
have been addressed.

Good Luck. :)

Hey I'm in Vidor we are neighbors!

Kool :) An AK member in the same county as i'm in... and only 20 minutes away.

Looks like your set uses loctal tubes, and I have some of the common ones, so we should be good there. Need to take a count on capacitors. The fat yellow one and orange one... need the values on those and can get replacements at Ralph's Electronics (near MLK & Calder). They will also have the little caps.

Here is a link to check out:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/330/M0013330.htm
Here you can download schematics which also include a dial stringing diagram. Without it, it can be hard to tell how the string was supposed to go. You can buy regular dial string via mailorder. You could probably make do with kite string. Probably uses a small spring or two where it connects to the tuner, they may still be there? As for the pointer, someone may have one they can offer, or you could make up something with some ingenuity.

The big red and orange capacitors underneath are your mortal enemy! They gotta go!

Be VERY,VERY careful if you try to clean the dial glass-Personal very painful experience has shown lotsa times those little numbers are water-or windex-soluble.And yes, you can replace 'em w/transfer letters, but they about always come out looking like shite. Also, the glass they use on those things is invariably a special extra thin & brittle type that lays in wait for you so it can break in yr hand, causing a nasty cut, & effectively ruining a good restoration. Sometimes, they'll break if you look at 'em cross-eyed...<grin>-Sandy G.

Also it is a good idea to install a fuse in the hot lead of the power line...1 amp ought to do. You can get an in-line fuse holder and put it under the chassis and it will not affect the looks of it one bit. And, I always disconnect that noise suppression cap on the powerline...if it shorts you will either end up with a "hot" chassis or a short across the powerline. Never had any ill effects from just disconnecting that thing altogether.

good thing I haven't gotten to cleaning the display part yet! I will becareful! and I'll check out those links :)

Kite string = no good. Get some dial cord, Antique Electronic Supply or other distributor. In a real pinch, I've used pull cord from a ceramic light fixture for cord. And you need a couple springs, extension springs, may find them at the home center.
No one yet mentioned--
There's no antenna on that chassis--need a few feet of wire to the antenna screw for any reception.
In order for the chassis to tune, the 6th push button has to be pushed, and the contacts behind it need to be clean. Better pick up some De-Oxit.
Copperman

I already removed some of the caps I was going to pick some new ones up today but some of the streets are flooded :( even without antenna I would have atleast got noise static something right? Should I go ahead and buy some caps when I get the chance? a few of em don't look so good and one if it's even a cap looks like @#&% er multi colored puty it's disfigured badly but since it looks like at one time it was wax I'm thinking it's a cap

Yikes! Yeah, Play-Doh wasn't invented then...handle it with care.

Update the philco works! Thanks to Charlie :) and a friend of his that donated a tube. btw those guys have some cool radios and tv's,that classic duster was neat too. I'm gonna have to go play with this philco,AM and short wave are a bit new to me. Thx everyone for your help.

If you REALLY wanna make that old guy sing, run a length of wire out a window over to the nearest tree, trying to keep the wire as high as possible. 20' length is good, 40-60' even better. Just remember to unplug it during Thunderstorm season !!-Sandy G.

If you REALLY wanna make that old guy sing, run a length of wire out a window over to the nearest tree, trying to keep the wire as high as possible. 20' length is good, 40-60' even better. Just remember to unplug it during Thunderstorm season !!-Sandy G.
Sandy,

Who are you referring to as old guy??? :saywhat: :headscrat :D

Actually, Donny's Philco was extremely impressive with it's reception! It has a pretty hefty shortwave antenna inside considering the size of the set. It was pulling in stations all over the place! I was really surprised! The electronic presets work pretty good too.

If he were to hook up that outside wire, he'd probably be able to monitor those two robots' progress we have on Mars!!! :alien: :yes:

Donny, glad it all worked out. Watch out for those "numbers" stations on shortwave... they're pretty creepy at night! :para:

BTW... All we had to do to this set was a re-cap (maybe 10 total including lytics), replace a few nearly nude wires, and replace a weak 7J7 det/osc tube.

No... I did not say nearly nude wives... put your glasses on! :D

yeah the hard stuff is done now it's just perking up the finish,a string and some deox (the volume has to be fiddled with alot)