View Full Version : Zenith Custom 23 Super H Chassis: FIXED


Kamakiri
05-07-2013, 05:55 AM
So here I am on the next one :) . Here's where we stand....

Did a basic recap of the mylars. Hoping that the filters were good, just because I get lucky once in a while on 1960s Zeniths :D . It's not proving to be the case.

Attached is a pic of what I'm getting on the screen at the moment, perfect sound, and I can adjust the picture to come in great with great sync lock, even if it's only 2" tall.....lol.

Two other things I need to point out. First, the flyback's plastic coating seems to have melted off, and is sitting in the bottom of the HV cage. Ever eat a DQ Dilly Bar, and one of the pieces of the chocolate coating comes off in the shape of the bar, kinda rounded? That's what the flyback coating looks like. It's not arcing, but wanted opinions to see if I can re-seal it somehow.

Second, is this really weird 3 wire disc cap. It says 87* on it, and to be honest, I can't ever remember seeing one like this before that needed replacement. It's cracked like dry dirt in the center, so I'm assuming that it needs to be replaced. But with what?

NOW.....yes, I know that I'm going to have to do the filters, as much as I dislike doing them :D. That's next. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the rest?

DavGoodlin
05-07-2013, 07:34 AM
Tim,
Whats the chassis number? I can send you a schematic if its a pre-66 set. You will need it to figure out the disc.

The 87-disc is probably a dual capacitor but not quite an "integrator" and is most likely your trouble. It can be built from 2-3 separate caps/resistors. '
Also, Zeniths of this era had issues with open height/linearity/hold pots.

As for the flyback, replacing paper caps in and around the damper-boost circuits off the fly will cool it down, as it probably got hot before the vertical crapped out. Its all related. Long ago I fixed the arc-trashed flyback in my RCA CTC12 with a brush-on coating by GC, http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/datasheets/bm/GC_ELECTRONICS/70159781.pdf

DAve

Kamakiri
05-07-2013, 08:14 AM
It's a model F2737E, dating it to 1961.....

zeno
05-07-2013, 08:32 AM
The 87- is probably the problem. There is a color dot on it
that gives you the part #. Example yellow dot = 87-4 etc.
Use resistor color code...... If you cant get NOS look in the
SAMS they often have the break down of them.
If it were a Zenith double disc cap it would have a 22- part #
and usually be blue or tan.
The 87- integrators were high failure so start there. Must
have put in 100's of them in the good old days.

73 Zeno

DavGoodlin
05-07-2013, 10:11 PM
The 87- is probably the problem. There is a color dot on it
that gives you the part #. Example yellow dot = 87-4 etc.
Use resistor color code...... If you cant get NOS look in the
SAMS they often have the break down of them.
If it were a Zenith double disc cap it would have a 22- part #
and usually be blue or tan.
The 87- integrators were high failure so start there. Must
have put in 100's of them in the good old days.

73 Zeno

Good eye! and its in the feedback loop of the 6EM7. Sams 525 lists it as K2, replacements by Centralab PC-408, aerovox PA-764 or a Sprague V-14. I did not check the chassis 16F21 factory manual, but probably no clues there.

The equivalent circuit looks like a few series resistors with capacitors from each junction to ground. An RC network optimizing shape of the vertical sawtooth for linearity, it was simply designed to save labor and space.

Any guesses as to what those values really are, but a look at an RCA CTC-11has a 6EM7 and similar values. The CTC 11 circuit has two 680 pf to ground on either end of a 47K resistor in the feedback loop with a 100K on plate side and a .0068 mf on the grid side. Sub in those parts for the "K2"

Kamakiri
08-05-2013, 12:49 PM
Interesting development here.

I parted out a '67 Zenith color set that was toast, in hopes I'd find one of those 87*'s, and sure enough, I did. But I also found something else pretty interesting.....a blue cap with a similar 3 pin configuration and a VALUE on it!!!

As you can see, it shows a "2 x .001 10%" on it. Using the center pole as a mutual ground, I tested the two outer ends, and it is exactly a double .001 cap.

Now, for the 87* , it tested at .00189 on both ends, or .002 each side, for all intents and purposes. What the devil the "87*" means, I have no idea, but there it is.

Now, I'll sub in the 87* from the other set, into this one and see what happens. I don't have any .002s on the shelf, and I hate putting in four .001s.

Kamakiri
08-05-2013, 12:58 PM
The 87- is probably the problem. There is a color dot on it
that gives you the part #. Example yellow dot = 87-4 etc.
Use resistor color code...... If you cant get NOS look in the
SAMS they often have the break down of them.
If it were a Zenith double disc cap it would have a 22- part #
and usually be blue or tan.
The 87- integrators were high failure so start there. Must
have put in 100's of them in the good old days.

73 Zeno

Oh, wait a minute wait a minute. I doubled back and re-read this, it's been a couple months. So is it NOT a cap? I'm confused.

zeno
08-05-2013, 03:01 PM
Oh, wait a minute wait a minute. I doubled back and re-read this, it's been a couple months. So is it NOT a cap? I'm confused.
THE 87-* is the integrators. The color blotch on it is the 2nd part
of the part##. If one has a yellow dot its an 87-4 green dot is
87-5 etc. Use the resistor color code.

22- numbers are for most Zenith caps. The double caps I remember
were .001 They are usually light blue. I NEVER replaced one.
If your cans are still OEM they will also have 22-**** numbers.

The #1 vert problem on old Zeniths is the integrators ( 1 or 2).
#2 is electrolytic in cathode of vert. output. Its prob in
one of the cans. #3 is other caps in vert feedback loop,
from the output plate to the osc grid. That is 90% of
non tube failures.

Good luck

73 Zeno:smoke:

Kamakiri
08-05-2013, 08:02 PM
Okay, but what *is* an integrator. Is it a capacitor/resistor? Is it just a twin lead cap as my test would have me to believe?

Basically, I need to know what makes this thing tick, so I can substitute modern replacements. From what you're telling me, this seems like the 1960s version of the Philco bakelite block condenser.

zeno
08-06-2013, 06:03 AM
IIRC inside is 2 resistors in series. A cap goes to ground
at each end and at the junction of the two. All the
values are the same.
I was right ! I duck duck goed it & found this....
http://www.boxcarcabin.com/integrator.html

73 Zeno:smoke:

Kamakiri
08-06-2013, 08:29 AM
When replacing, what would you use for wattage on the resistors, and voltage rating on the caps?

zeno
08-06-2013, 03:21 PM
When replacing, what would you use for wattage on the resistors, and voltage rating on the caps?
IMHO 1/2 watt resistors & 600v caps. May want to go 1kv
to play it safe. Disc caps should be OK.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Kamakiri
10-27-2013, 08:44 AM
After replacing that suspect integrator and doing the filter caps, there's no change. Here's a shot of where I'm at now.

I've been advised that the next step is a vertical output transformer, so I'll be giving Moyer a call this week....

Username1
10-27-2013, 09:43 AM
You gunna test that transformer first ?

Maybe test the voltages around the output...?

Check for open V-hold-Height-Lin pots...?

Kamakiri
10-28-2013, 05:34 AM
I don't have a Sams for this particular set, so I don't have any reference as to what anything should read. Honestly, I'm okay with throwing a few parts at it, as my plan is to make this set my "daily driver".

Zenith26kc20
10-28-2013, 02:05 PM
If the vertical output transformer is shorted, unplug the convergence panel. I had both of my Zeniths (an M and an N) chassis fail identically. While waiting for a transformer, I could use them and get full sweep but outer convergence was terrible. Try to get a Thordarson transformer. They seem better built. I replaced both of mine with Thordason.
Is it the picture or is there a slight keystone to that raster? Keysone means yoke. Look for green corrosion on the youke windings. We changed a lot of Zenith yokes tears ago also.

Kamakiri
10-28-2013, 02:11 PM
This one's a black and white, though :)

There is a slight keystone to the raster. The picture comes in clear and locks in sync, but it's only as high as the shot that I posted.

Electronic M
10-28-2013, 05:17 PM
I always consider service literature a better thing to throw money at. I'd rather KNOW I need some expensive rare part and then get it, then waste my money depleting replacement stock for somebody down the road that does need it only to find out my set really did not need said expensive rare part and probably never will.

When you work smart you become a better tech, and spend less money replacing good parts.

Kamakiri
10-28-2013, 07:56 PM
True. But at this point in the game, I'm trying to accomplish two things. I'm trying to broaden my knowledge, and I'm trying to get the set working. Many times, one comes at the expense of the other.

As with electronic automotive components, substitution with a known good component can yield the simplest diagnosis. More expensive, yes, but I'm okay with that.

dieseljeep
10-29-2013, 10:13 AM
After replacing that suspect integrator and doing the filter caps, there's no change. Here's a shot of where I'm at now.

I've been advised that the next step is a vertical output transformer, so I'll be giving Moyer a call this week....

Is that the 23" Zenith that uses the 110 degree CRT? All Zenith's 23's, after that used the 90 degree CRT's. Large neck.
I'd put my money on a open vertical winding in the yoke, especially if it's the 110 degree yoke.
If it's the 23", 110 degree model, it's an odd-ball. IIRC, they only made one year of them. There must've been a reason! :thumbsdn:

Kamakiri
10-29-2013, 10:24 AM
Picture tube is a 23ZP4. Looks like a 90 degree to me, it's a BIG HEAVY tube.

Zenith26kc20
10-31-2013, 10:15 AM
Is the yoke a 95-1610? If so, I have changed a few of them. It goes to a Stancor DY-13A. If you remove the yoke from the neck, you will see green corrosion on the windings. This seems a problem with some sets.

dieseljeep
10-31-2013, 10:43 AM
Picture tube is a 23ZP4. Looks like a 90 degree to me, it's a BIG HEAVY tube.

IIRC, that's the first year for that CRT and the big heavy front glass panel.
I keep forgetting those sets are 50+ years old and subject to large component failures.
Remove the CRT and inspect the yoke windings, as suggested. Take resistance readings of the vertical windings. They should both be alike. Around 15 to 25 ohms. If there's resisters across the windings, disregard them. If the winding is open, you'll just read the resisters.

Kamakiri
10-31-2013, 11:10 AM
I'll have to do that when I get chance, but I went to take a picture of the yoke, just to show, and I noticed what appears like a burn mark in the plastic cover. You can see it in this picture as a white spot, but in that white spot it appears to be melted.

Hm.

No visible marks that I can see, but again I'll have to pull it anyway. Good thing is that Moyer does stock the yoke.

Kamakiri
11-08-2013, 07:24 PM
It was the yoke. Replacement came in from Moyer, and I installed it right away. I'll have to dial in the rest of the picture adjustments tomorrow when I can get a flat bladed screwdriver that's thin and about 8 feet long to reach the linearity and height controls on the chassis ;)

But tonight, gentlmen, I get to watch TELEVISION! :bigok:

Kamakiri
11-08-2013, 07:28 PM
Is the yoke a 95-1610? If so, I have changed a few of them. It goes to a Stancor DY-13A. If you remove the yoke from the neck, you will see green corrosion on the windings. This seems a problem with some sets.

Yoke was actually a 95-1654, which crossed to a Thordarson Y98. Same yoke also fits 95-1768, 95-1825, 95-2093, and 95-2383, with one exception.....there's a white wire that goes to a 1 megohm resistor that isn't used with my set. Didn't see any corrosion or really anything noteworthy on the inside of the old yoke.

Kamakiri
11-09-2013, 09:35 AM
Got it dialed in nicely. The Brady Bunch looks pretty darn good :)

Put the back on, and I call this job done :thmbsp:

Celt
11-09-2013, 09:48 AM
Very cool! :smoke:

El Predicta
11-09-2013, 10:16 PM
The pattern looks wedge-shaped. How about the deflection yoke?

El Predicta
11-09-2013, 10:18 PM
Sorry- for some reason didn't see all the previous posts!

Kamakiri
11-10-2013, 06:47 AM
Well, your diagnosis was spot on! :)

Coshi
07-01-2014, 05:37 PM
It was the yoke. Replacement came in from Moyer, and I installed it right away. I'll have to dial in the rest of the picture adjustments tomorrow when I can get a flat bladed screwdriver that's thin and about 8 feet long to reach the linearity and height controls on the chassis ;)

But tonight, gentlmen, I get to watch TELEVISION! :bigok:

Boy your not kidding! I gess the high voltage here is whats causing it to be so tall now, being so close to the substation our outlet reads 137v.

But the height it too tall now and the picture has a hourglass shape to it now.
Other then that I watched a 2 hour movie on it when I first got it home and its very watchable. and steady.

I noted the million foot long screwdriver was needed to get at the height.

Any idea how set the picture? I don't want to mess up your good work.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/Caramel_Shower/07011418391_zps9d84c721.jpg (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Caramel_Shower/media/07011418391_zps9d84c721.jpg.html)

Kamakiri
07-02-2014, 05:56 AM
Honestly I don't remember where the height control of the set even is. I set it up on an indian head test pattern after I got the yoke done, and it looked pretty good.

If the height control needs a super long screwdriver, you may need to pick one up or borrow one, I'm assuming that the control can't be reached safely otherwise. But I'm guessing that you need to dial the vertical linearity back in slightly, as the stretching appears to be at the top. I'd go with that first. Linearity, then height. A couple screwdriver turns will bring that in.

With screwdriver pots, you're not going to really mess anything up. Just turn the pot slowly and note the change on the screen. I've found the most effective way of doing it is with a mirror in front of the set, so you can see what you're actually doing.

Post a picture of an actual image on the screen, as in a screen shot. From your crosshatch shot, it really doesn't look bad. Most of what you're seeing probably won't even appear on normal programming. Crosshatch is mostly used for color TV convergence. The question is, how does the picture look?

zeno
07-02-2014, 02:53 PM
For extra long screwdriver make it out of a knitting needle.
Xlite used to make a foot long that worked great on Zeniths.
Also made 2 foot 1/4 inch & the next size ( yellow handle)
with magnets & a 2 foot phillips for the Jap sets. Watch for them
on TV shop clean outs.
I still have them but you will have to pull them out of my cold dead
hands..........

73 Zeno:smoke:

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 03:26 PM
One thing I have done in a pinch, is to slip some nylon tubing similar to aquarium hose over the shafts of the controls, leaving it long enough to reach the back of the set and twist that. Then it can be as long as it needs to be and you don't need to constantly line up screwdrivers. Make sure you wait for the TV to be really warm (on for greater than half an hour) before attempting this adjustment or you will be doing it over and over again. Also, if your line voltage is really 137V, there is a problem with your wiring (probably a loose neutral), and you should get that fixed right away. 137V is way too high. If you actually meant 127V, then I guess it's within tolerance but still not so good.
Some TV sets have multiple taps on the power transformer for high and low line voltage - if yours is so equipped make sure it's set to the 125V tap.

Olorin67
07-02-2014, 06:06 PM
If your voltage really is 137! A complaint to your power company is in order. The pole transformers have multiple taps to adjust the viltage, usually.

Coshi
07-02-2014, 07:25 PM
All the controls are on the front so its very easy to look at the screen,
Also the voltage checked again, It is now 131 But at night its 137. And around 2pm it hits 124.

I gust got a new screwdriver i'm gonna watch some honeymooners before i adjust the leanarty.

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 08:02 PM
137 volts is totally unacceptable - try a second meter to make sure it's true and it isn't just your meter reading high. That's enough voltage to shorten the life of everything electrical in your house not to mention jack up the power bill. The relationship between voltage and expected life of things like tubes is not linear, you will get a much shorter life with such an out of spec voltage.

Coshi
07-02-2014, 08:28 PM
Ok my old meter only goes to 130vAC
And it is pegged.

And the cheepy multimeter with the leads stuck right into the outlet says 133

old_coot88
07-02-2014, 08:32 PM
137 volts is totally unacceptable - try a second meter to make sure it's true and it isn't just your meter reading high. That's enough voltage to shorten the life of everything electrical in your house not to mention jack up the power bill. The relationship between voltage and expected life of things like tubes is not linear, you will get a much shorter life with such an out of spec voltage.
Absolutely true! While amperage goes up on a linear scale with voltage, Wattage and heat dissipation go up by the square of volts times amps.
I sure would not run that vintage set any more until the line voltage is within spec.

Coshi
07-02-2014, 08:42 PM
I was thinking about that, And went BACK to lowes and bought some things and made this thing,
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/Caramel_Shower/Untitled_zpsa3f69caa.png (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Caramel_Shower/media/Untitled_zpsa3f69caa.png.html)
Is this a good idea? it seams to not want to roll as much now.

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 08:53 PM
That's not a good idea. Dimmer switches aren't mAde for AC loads. Let me draw you a circuit of what to make.

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 09:08 PM
Use a bucking transformer, see attached images for the circuit. If you don't get the results you expect, swap the two secondary lead connections and it will work.

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 09:09 PM
How it works

maxhifi
07-02-2014, 09:11 PM
Formula to calculate voltage. If you have a transformer with other than 12.6v secondary just substitute this in the equation.

Coshi
07-02-2014, 09:53 PM
OK, So my farther had a variac in a box of eletrical junk in his car. Problem salved.
Thanks for the diagram though.
I may make one of those aswll

DavGoodlin
07-03-2014, 08:20 AM
Formula to calculate voltage. If you have a transformer with other than 12.6v secondary just substitute this in the equation.

Thanks for the idea to make a "buck" transfomer. A 2 amp secondary is just right for this Zenith.
Would it then be safe to assume the secondary winding current should match the current (amp) draw of the actual appliance or TV used?

NoPegs
07-03-2014, 08:45 AM
Thanks for the idea to make a "buck" transfomer. A 2 amp secondary is just right for this Zenith.
Would it then be safe to assume the secondary winding current should match the current (amp) draw of the actual appliance or TV used?

Match or exceed. Never less.

old_coot88
07-03-2014, 09:55 AM
Use a bucking transformer, see attached images for the circuit. If you don't get the results you expect, swap the two secondary lead connections and it will work.

I woulda thought the bucker would be wired this way..
183433

maxhifi
07-03-2014, 10:17 AM
I woulda thought the bucker would be wired this way..
183433

You have it wired as a bucking transformer, I actually wired it as an autotransformer (and called it a bucking transformer, which is a mistake), I think either way should work. Yes the secondary of 2A I picked for the average tv, a big colour set could use more, say 3A. You could make a really big one from say an old car battery
Charger.

maxhifi
07-03-2014, 11:29 AM
One additional bit of info. I picked an autotransformer connection almost without thinking about it, because it's commonly used to use 240V loads on a 208V service and vice versa. I did a little reading about the true "bucking" connection (where the windings are connected out of phase) and found the following thread

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149657&start=20

Their conclusion seems to be that the autotransformer connection as I drew it is more efficient than the bucking connection as old_coot88 proposed, however either will work.

So basically, in conclusion, if you need to operate vintage electronics and have a utility who is giving you a stupidly high line voltage, connecting a cheap 12.6V filament transformer as an autotransformer and using it to reduce the voltage is an excellent option. It is cheaper than a variac, and in fact is cheap enough you could leave it permanently attached to a specific TV and leave your variac on the test bench where it belongs.

**safety note** The secondary windings of a small transformer may not be insulated as well as the primary. For this reason, I would mount the transformer on a wooden or otherwise non-conductive base, just in case the case of the transformer ever became "hot". Yeah it probably won't happen, but we're using something outside of what it was originally designed for so may as well be careful.

All the same though I would want to get to the bottom of why my line voltage was so high, a call to the utility is in order, since the approach of using a voltage adjusting transformer is really treating the symptoms rather than the problem. You live in the USA, it's supposed to be the best electrical infrastructure in the world... 137V is absolutely not acceptable, and it is possible that the utility will even appreciate it that someone has made them aware of a problem with their system.

DavGoodlin
07-03-2014, 02:53 PM
One additional bit of info. I picked an autotransformer connection almost without thinking about it, because it's commonly used to use 240V loads on a 208V service and vice versa. I did a little reading about the true "bucking" connection (where the windings are connected out of phase) and found the following thread

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149657&start=20

Their conclusion seems to be that the autotransformer connection as I drew it is more efficient than the bucking connection as old_coot88 proposed, however either will work.

So basically, in conclusion, if you need to operate vintage electronics and have a utility who is giving you a stupidly high line voltage, connecting a cheap 12.6V filament transformer as an autotransformer and using it to reduce the voltage is an excellent option. It is cheaper than a variac, and in fact is cheap enough you could leave it permanently attached to a specific TV and leave your variac on the test bench where it belongs.

**safety note** The secondary windings of a small transformer may not be insulated as well as the primary. For this reason, I would mount the transformer on a wooden or otherwise non-conductive base, just in case the case of the transformer ever became "hot". Yeah it probably won't happen, but we're using something outside of what it was originally designed for so may as well be careful.

All the same though I would want to get to the bottom of why my line voltage was so high, a call to the utility is in order, since the approach of using a voltage adjusting transformer is really treating the symptoms rather than the problem. You live in the USA, it's supposed to be the best electrical infrastructure in the world... 137V is absolutely not acceptable, and it is possible that the utility will even appreciate it that someone has made them aware of a problem with their system.

Most utility companies have in thier public utility tariff (binding agreement) a requirement to supply no more than 5% deviation from 120 volts.

NoPegs
07-03-2014, 05:16 PM
All the same though I would want to get to the bottom of why my line voltage was so high, a call to the utility is in order, since the approach of using a voltage adjusting transformer is really treating the symptoms rather than the problem. You live in the USA, it's supposed to be the best electrical infrastructure in the world... 137V is absolutely not acceptable, and it is possible that the utility will even appreciate it that someone has made them aware of a problem with their system.

Most utility companies have in thier public utility tariff (binding agreement) a requirement to supply no more than 5% deviation from 120 volts.

9 months out of the year I'm up around 129 volts, just this week the 24 hour average voltage measured at 1 hour intervals by my UPS was <125v due to the whole hot and humid things happening outside. By the first week of August it'll be 119, then start climbing again when things eventually cool off.

Where I'm at the stated SLA is for 120v +10%/-5% and 60.0Hz +/- 0.1%, so anything under 133 is considered "Acceptably high, but within spec." and honestly I don't mind it for anything other than light-bulbs. Thankfully, 130V bulbs are actually a thing and they're not priced differently than normal bulbs, but if I ever decide to abandon incandescent light, I know that CFLs tend to go BANG after a month or so here. I should actually remember to get some LED based bulb-substitutes when I find myself in PP&L territory and see how they do on 130v. (I bet they're fine, maybe a 3% reduction in total lifetime which is probably 10k hours or more to begin with.) PP&L does the energy saving bulb subsidy right at the register at almost all chain retailers in their territory, silly Met-Ed (First Energy) either wants you to buy the ones they'll sell, or send in the receipt and UPCs for credit on a future bill if you buy your own less craptacular units.

I live about 1900 feet from the substation, and it just happens to be what feeds a Bayer process plant, and an asphalt shingle plant, plus about 100 residential customers on that end of the borough. Power doesn't go out often for me, but if the main population's grid goes down, I lose internet if its down for more than about 2 hours or so. Cable HFC feed comes in from about 20 miles east, and either the FTC node or one of the two line hybrids in the RF chain before my tap comes up short on the backup power department. The only downside I can find to being part of the medium industrial grid is the hotter potential.


Something to contribute on this one, for Coshi, with nearly 140 ( :yikes: ) volts:

Are you fed with the normal split-phase service or the silly bi-phase service seen in some older multiple dwelling units? Split phase is 240v center-tapped and ground-bonded neutral service(2 hots and a neutral with 180 degree phase angle on the hots.), bi-phase is still 2 hots and a neutral, but hot-hot gives ~208 instead of ~240 because of the 120 degree phase angle difference.

If you're unlucky enough to have bi-phase service, are all your outlets >130v, or just the one you've measured so far? Twice before I've poked around and found that a place wired with bi-phase somehow got changed at the pole to a high-leg delta type setup through some horrible series of errors, and half the outlets got 0.66*208v instead of 120v, which based on the measurement you provided actually seems to be a plausible case here. (137 is near enough to precisely 2/3 of 208v, remember there's a phase angle difference involved.)

Now I'm interested in seeing if you're the third example of this issue I've been party to.

maxhifi
07-03-2014, 05:28 PM
I get dead on 117 - 120, whenever I measure it any time of year, any time of day.. I suppose I should consider myself lucky.

Coshi
07-03-2014, 05:57 PM
OK! So called the power company they came and sorted it all out.

I figured I'd check the plugs in the house and found the plugs downstairs where around 200+ nothing had been plugged in down there since the fire. I called the power company right away.

maxhifi
07-03-2014, 05:58 PM
What was wrong? My vote is for a bad neutral connection somewhere between the electrical panel and the transformer.

I hope you tell people how owning an old TV PREVENTED a possible house fire, by bringing attention to the electrical issue!

Coshi
07-03-2014, 10:08 PM
The neutral was hot. Thats what the tec said.

ALSO I thinks its very funny that a vintage TV, Things known for bursting into fire. Saved the house from a 2th fire.

Kamakiri
07-04-2014, 05:49 AM
Wow. All of a sudden, I feel very good about turning down a higher local offer on that TV and sending it to you. That's one of those things that was meant to happen :)

Coshi
07-04-2014, 10:25 PM
I know! I'm so happy you sold it to me too. You did A lovely job, The only thing I cant figure out is the wavy picture.

Other then that, With everyone in the house watching it it only goes off for 4-6 hours a day! with that much use I figured it would eat through its picture tube pretty quickly. SO I put feelers out for a spare picture tube and got one for a whooping 20$ !! I also got a brightener for when it goes out. I got them in a box with all the other spare parts a got from the Toms Radio.

Again thanks SO SO MUCH!

So yea it goes on at 4am when my mom gets up for the news, My dad gets up shortly after to watch the weather and the history channel then he goes to work, By then I have gotten up and I watch dirty jobs and I love Lucy. by then I head off to work, THEN my brother turns on the sports and what ever he watches. Then 2pm rolls around my mom comes home she then turns on Bones and resolie and Iles. I get it after her for the daily rerun of My little pony. and then my dad comes home and watches duck dinsty or somthin as well as some other stuff, and the set goes off around 10pm or 12am

So it defnally gets used. It ant' No museum peace! : )

Kamakiri
07-04-2014, 10:40 PM
Now that you've got your line voltage situation figured out, might not be a bad idea to run through the tubes. I tested them all and replaced one or two that were marginal before it headed out the door to you. Could be a weak horizontal AFC or sync separator tube.

That set'll last you a good long time. I used it nearly every day for six months. I actually found a brand new vertical output transformer that I bought for the set but never needed. PM me your address and I'll put it in the mail, along with some spare tubes if you need them, just list off the tube numbers in the PM :)