Finally got this Olympic delivered to my door today.
The seller originally wanted to use UPS, then FED EX, and finally went with USPS, which I asked for, and I will always go with them when possible for shipping.
Everything looks intact, all I did was clean a little of the top, just to see what was there under all the dirt. It's a very cool looking redish cloth like material, similar to the coverings of the portable record players from the 60's. The material is still in great shape, no tears or rips, all knobs present, only some rust on the handle hinges. This should look like new after a good cleaning.
Took the back off, and looks like this baby sat for a long time.
Will need to check the CRT, then hopefully, bring this set back to life!
I really liked this set because it was very unique looking, and much different then the others sets I have. I would love to find an ad for this set somewhere, as of yet I haven't seen anything similar....

Magnavox300

Interesting set, what is the motor up top? Remote or Timer?

Wow! That Television is almost as skinny as a flatscreens

Congratulations in having your set delivered to your door in safe and sound.

I have one thing unusual, A Video Camcorder was on a Bicycle!

So, I will let you guys check out two of my threads

"RCA Camcorder Made It Home On a Bicycle!!!"

And,

"First Anniversary of an RCA Camcorder Made It Home On A Bicycle!!!"

I still have the Video from the Camcorder BUT DID NOT UPLOAD YET!

So, Congratulations on Your Safe Delivery On Your Set!!!!

I grew up watching a "suit-case" set almost exactly like that, peach and white, but it was a '59 Admiral. We were watching that set till about 1980 and it still worked! Good luck with your resto
http://imgc.allpostersimages.com/images/P-473-488-90/37/3725/FXSAF00Z/posters/early-portable-television-set-from-admiral-corporation-1959.jpg

That was the set I was thinking about. US made, power transformer, etc.
It looks like the motor is a Telechron auto shutoff timer.
It's a little rough, but an example of probably the last US built Olympic portable.

I think that is an auto-shutoff time, too. This set would not be a bottom of the line model. Most of the Olympics I saw were series string designs.

When you clean on those tubes, be careful. The Olympic badge will just wipe off, if you are not careful.

I'd just use a clean paint brush and a vacuum cleaner to get the dust.

I was wondering what that white knob was on top. Also nice to know this set wasn't "bottom of the line".
Thanks to all for letting me know.
Still waiting for resistors for the Philco Transitone, then I'll put that back together, and be ready for this Olympic. This will be my fourth set to restore. Glad I have a good supporting wife!
Thanks for all the great info,

Magnavox300

...This should look like new after a good cleaning... Took the back off, and looks like this baby sat for a long time.

Hope there weren't any crawly critters lurking in there.

:eek:

Cool set! I had an RCA suitcase set like that when I was a teen.

Is that yellow filter cap just dangling in mid air as it appears, or does it have a nonexistium support bracket? :D

That can't be original, can it?

Decided to start on this Olympic while I have been waiting for the many coats of boiled linseed oil to dry on the Emerson console...

Got the chassis recapped, sprayed slip plate to the CRT, cleaned everything,
and now I am ready to test it.

While I was moving everything around the anode wire broke off from the HV rectifier socket...
when I look inside the socket area, it appears it came off the #2 pin but I'm not sure...

Does anyone know if this looks correct according to the schematic?
Thanks for any help!

if i'm reading the schematic correctly pin 2 goes to the fly then back out to pin 7 then to the anode , so if the wire reaches pin 7 it shows it there , if it reaches pin 2 easier then let us know, if it was on pin 2 it looks like it would be ok too, someone correct me if i'm wrong.

On most sets using 1B3's There was a wire from the tube socket Pin 2, and 7 and it was
a single wire wrapped around the ferrite frame of the flyback once or twice. That was
just to take a volt or two off the flyback to run the heater, The heater also was the
cathode of the diode tube..... I would use pin 7 , but I'm going to go out on the limb and
say either pin would work.....? I'll have to look it up though.....

A random check of 10 schematics shows about 50-50 use of pin 7 or 2. Since *either* side of the directly heated cathode/filament can serve as the cathode connection, either pin can be used.
jr

Add: Looking at several 1B3s, there is an internal shield that appears to be connected to pin7, but that should not matter either, as there is only a volt (1.25) difference from one side of the filament to the other.

Thanks for all the help...
I was also thinking pin 7 according to the schematic,
but I will attach it to pin #2,
since it looked like that's where it came off,
and others basically confirmed it would be the same.
Thanks again!

Magnavox300

After recapping, I could not get anything on the CRT,
then noticed there was a 3 AMP fuse that was blown...

Replaced the fuse, and now I have sound and some life, but no vertical sweep...
Replaced all resistors as needed, and tubes as well.
(I did keep the brightness to a minimum during testing)

Funny thing is, when I turn the channel selector,
I do see some vertical sweep for only an instant,
the whole picture flashes, all lit up with lines, but like I said only for a split second.
I sprayed some Deoxit in the tuner, but no difference...

Could the problem with sweep be within the tuner?

Funny thing is, when I turn the channel selector,
I do see some vertical sweep for only an instant,
the whole picture flashes, all lit up with lines, but like I said only for a split second.
I sprayed some Deoxit in the tuner, but no difference...

Could the problem with sweep be within the tuner?

Maybe a loose tube pin in the vertical circuits? Can you make the same thing happen if you tap the chassis say with a screwdriver handle? Might be the mechanical vibration that happens when you change channels rattling the vertical circuit.

Maybe a loose tube pin in the vertical circuits? Can you make the same thing happen if you tap the chassis say with a screwdriver handle? Might be the mechanical vibration that happens when you change channels rattling the vertical circuit.
Tried to tap on the chassis and some other components, but nothing.
The screen only blinked on with sweep a few times, can't seem to do it again though... the pins all seem fine in the vertical tube.

My other thought was, that when I ran out of paper caps,
I used a .033 film capacitor for the .035 paper axial cap, and two .0033 Orange Drops paralleled together for the .0068 axial paper cap.
These caps were right off the vertical tube socket,
I was wondering if that might be a problem, substituting those type?

I used a .033 film capacitor for the .035 paper axial cap, and two .0033 Orange Drops paralleled together for the .0068 axial paper cap.
These caps were right off the vertical tube socket,
I was wondering if that might be a problem, substituting those type?

That sub should be fine. Check for bad resistors, and check the transformers in the vertical circuit (usually a small one for the oscillator, and a bigger one to drive the yoke).

That sub should be fine. Check for bad resistors, and check the transformers in the vertical circuit (usually a small one for the oscillator, and a bigger one to drive the yoke).
Thanks...
Do I test the transformers with a multimeter?

If that 3Amp fuse was in the horizontal circuit then I think you need to go with a 1/4Amp fuse there. It was a common hack repair to oversize the replacement horizontal stage fuse whenever it blew...Putting the flyback at risk in the future.

If that 3Amp fuse was in the horizontal circuit then I think you need to go with a 1/4Amp fuse there. It was a common hack repair to oversize the replacement horizontal stage fuse whenever it blew...Putting the flyback at risk in the future.

Thanks,
actually the 3 amp fuse is original to the circuit.

Got sweep!
Can't believe it, but after studying the schematic, I noticed I left out a 470 ohm 1 watt resistor from pin 9 of the vertical tube socket to ground.
Someone fooled with this set many years back, and replaced a couple of the electrolytics, but never took out the originals...they were all wired in together!

Anyway, when I pulled those caps out, the 470ohm resistor was wired together with a 100uf capacitor, and I just forgot to put it back in.

Now I have sweep, picture looks OK, when I can see it, BUT, I can just make it out...

If I turn up the brightness, the picture goes dark.

If I turn the brightness all the way down, and slowly turn it up about 1/4 of the way, I see a clear bright picture for only a second, then it goes just about completely dark.

Picture seems better the longer I run the set, but I can't brighten it.

The picture will zoom in very large, then disappear and go dark if I try to turn up the contrast or brightness past their halfway points...

Any thoughts??

Wondering if the picture going dark by turning up the brightness and contrast knob is a symptom of a bad CRT?

Picture seems better the longer I run the set, but I can't brighten it.

The picture will zoom in very large, then disappear and go dark if I try to turn up the contrast or brightness past their halfway points...

Any thoughts??

The picture zooming is a symptom of low high voltage, often caused by a bad HV rectifier tube.

Picture seems better the longer I run the set, but I can't brighten it.

The picture will zoom in very large, then disappear and go dark if I try to turn up the contrast or brightness past their halfway points...

Any thoughts??

That is called blooming. The first thing to check is the high voltage rectifier. Substitution of the tube is the best way to deal with it. That is a nice set by the way.

Thanks for the tips on the HV tube!
I would never have known...
I actually just changed that tube, a 1B3 I think, since the old one tested bad...

I do have another tube, but I am wondering since it is in the High Voltage cage,
is it safe to put my hand in there and just change it, if I'm careful not to touch anything else? I just had the set on for about three hours...

Thanks for the tips on the HV tube!
I would never have known...
I actually just changed that tube, a 1B3 I think, since the old one tested bad...

I do have another tube, but I am wondering since it is in the High Voltage cage,
is it safe to put my hand in there and just change it, if I'm careful not to touch anything else? I just had the set on for about three hours...

Make sure set is switched off and unplugged. Carefully remove the plate cap so as not to break any wires and remove the tube. You might have to try a few tubes to get one that works well in your set. Also make sure your power supply voltages are up to scratch so you don't have low B+ contributing to your problem. Those tacked on electrolytic capacitors will need to be tidied up.