Thought this set looked very cool, got it for $45.00
Everthing is there, and looks like a good project.
Took the chassis out, and was wondering if the wire going into the CRT looked right??
Also, The black is peeling off the CRT, anyone know what I should get to re paint it with, if it is a paint?

Magnavox300

The anode to the CRT should have a rubber piece like a suction cup on it, I'd be afraid of that one as it is. Also, the coating on the CRT is called Aquadag. I don't know if it's available or not, but I have heard that suitable substitutes can be found. The coating is supposed to be conductive to a certain degree. IIRC some other VK'ers have been able to find solutions to peeling Aquadag and hopefully they'll chime in here. That's a nice set, BTW.

The anode to the CRT should have a rubber piece like a suction cup on it, I'd be afraid of that one as it is. Also, the coating on the CRT is called Aquadag. I don't know if it's available or not, but I have heard that suitable substitutes can be found. The coating is supposed to be conductive to a certain degree. IIRC some other VK'ers have been able to find solutions to peeling Aquadag and hopefully they'll chime in here. That's a nice set, BTW.

nope! surprisingly a lot of philcos (predicta era) had no cup my pedicta was like that, and worked perfect.

My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.

I have used a product called "slip plate" to replace dag. Just clean off the old 1st, mask out where you dont want it (aound the anode should have NO dag, if you can see where the old dad stopped then just mask off about 3" dia circle around the CRT anode. Its a spray on product, put on a few coats and you are good to go.

I see lotsa bumblee bees in there...

I just rebuilt one very similar to that, the Anode doesn't have a cup.
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=254893&highlight=philco

The PC boards used in these are really a pain to work on, mine had a coating of something over them, probably to help protect them from corrosion.

Every time I unsoldered a part the Foil wanted to come loose too, it was a real pain to recap.

Like the Predicta you have to unbolt the PC boards and remove some wires to gain access.

I replaced the CRT in mine because it was tired, I had to re-dag the replacement tube also, I used Aerodag because I happened to have some, Slip Plate works fine too, in fact I think it looks a little better and is more durable.

Keep the Dag away from the Anode and also away from where the Yoke windings contact the tube.

My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.

Great, I wasn't sure. So that is intentionally like that?
It's a clip on anode? Can I easily remove it , or unclip it,
to clean up the CRT?

Originally Posted by holmesuser01 View Post
My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.


Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
I just rebuilt one very similar to that, the Anode doesn't have a cup.
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php...ghlight=philco

The PC boards used in these are really a pain to work on, mine had a coating of something over them, probably to help protect them from corrosion.

Every time I unsoldered a part the Foil wanted to come loose too, it was a real pain to recap.

Like the Predicta you have to unbolt the PC boards and remove some wires to gain access.

I replaced the CRT in mine because it was tired, I had to re-dag the replacement tube also, I used Aerodag because I happened to have some, Slip Plate works fine too, in fact I think it looks a little better and is more durable.

Keep the Dag away from the Anode and also away from where the Yoke windings contact the tube.

Thanks for all the info, I was looking at the PC board, and figured I needed to take it off to unsolder the caps. Looks like a little extra patience will be needed! Will get some slip plate too...
Is the anode easily removed?

That anode lead did not originally have a rubber cup over it. It is fine.

Is the anode easily removed?

Yes, just make sure it's discharged, screwdriver from anode to ground will do it, then just push it to one side and unhook it.

Well, while I am waiting to find a CRT tester,
I decided to fool around with the set today, cleaning it, and replaced a horz. tube that was the only one not lighting up, the one that connects to the wire out of the HV cage.
Turned it on, still no picture at all.
Took out the Vertical tubes, and a few others, cleaned the pins, and used Deoxit in the tube sockets, tapped a few things, moved a few wires around,
turned it on again, and finally something!!

I hope this is a good enough sign to go ahead and redo this set.....

Amazing how cleaning tube pins magically cures mysterious problems :)

Yes, it's a good sign that the CRT lights up. It's capable of making some kind of a picture. You're getting some HV. And the sweep sections are trying to work.

Don't play the TV for more than a minute with that bright horizontal line, or you may burn a dark horizontal line in the CRT's phosphor that's impossible to fix.

If you feel compelled to play it anyway, turn down the brightness & contrast to make the line as dim as possible.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Thanks, I only had it on for a minute or even less just a few times.
I won't turn it on again till it's recapped.
I actually decided to use Deoxit in the sockets and clean the pins from looking at your old radio site yesterday....
Thanks again!

Took the chassis out, as well as the CRT.
Ordered all the caps, under $25, cheapest order so far!
I had a couple electrolytics left over from the portable Admiral I redid.
Scraped off the peeling Aquadag from the CRT;
Have to order Slip Plate tomorrow.
I was surprised the outer glare screen was plastic on this set?
It's pretty scratched up too, anyone know what could clean it up and get rid of some of those scratches?

Novus Plastic polish has worked well for me.
Around $10 for the kit, contains a cleaner and two different polishes for light or medium scratches.
http://http://www.novuspolish.com/
Or you could try a headlight re-clearing kit from the auto store, it's also plastic polish and abrasive pads of varying degrees.
Either one should work well.
Rob

Novus Plastic polish has worked well for me.
Around $10 for the kit, contains a cleaner and two different polishes for light or medium scratches.
http://http://www.novuspolish.com/
Or you could try a headlight re-clearing kit from the auto store, it's also plastic polish and abrasive pads of varying degrees.
Either one should work well.
Rob

Thanks for the info Rob, I will look into them!!

Okay, almost finished with this set,
but the small speaker has a huge hole in it.
I know a new one is only a few bucks, but I had this old Magnavox speaker from a console,
just about the same size, and it will fit, but it has a capacitor, and a little bigger magnet.
Anyone know if it'll work? I think the ohms are the same...
If so, do I need the cap?

Can you patch the hole with tea bag paper and fabric glue? I have done that many times. Nobody will see it and that type of speaker will probably sound the same.

Phil Nelson

Can you patch the hole with tea bag paper and fabric glue? I have done that many times. Nobody will see it and that type of speaker will probably sound the same.

Phil Nelson

I guess I could do that.
Good to know those little "tricks of the trade",
thanks Phil.

Got the slip plate for the CRT, looks and feels better than new!
Hooked up the CRT to the chassis with new caps, but no light on the CRT.
There was before I took it apart, hmmm? I rechecked my soldering, it looks good. I think the first thing to do is start checking the old tubes.
I know the horizontal output tube is bad, there is no glow to it, barely one I should say, and I am sure a few others are weak or bad as well.... I just bought a Sencore Mighty Mite tube tester today, have to wait for it to get here, probably next week sometime.

Can I spray the tuner with Deoxit? Right inside all around?
Or is that a foolish idea??

Is there an ion trap on this tube and is it on correctly ?

SR

Don't spray DeOxit all over the tuner. Soaking phenolic with that stuff may be bad medicine.

Better to dab the contacts with a Q-tip dipped in DeOxit (or your favorite alternate cleaner). Don't use anything abrasive on the contacts.

You could also wait until you have a picture and then judge whether the tuner seems dirty. If it changes channels cleanly and you have a clear picture and audio, maybe it's fine.

Phil Nelson

It does require a trap.

Are you sure you mean the horizontal output and not the High Voltage Rectifier?

The 1B3 Rectifier will not have any visible glow except perhaps in a dark room, and then only if the High Voltage is working since it derives it's filament voltage from a single turn winding on the Flyback.

Try placing a neon tester lamp against the 12DQ6 plate lead or cap. If it does not light, the tube may be bad or horizontal drive is incorrect/missing.

If you have light, try it close to the HV rect 1G3 cap, again if you have light AND the tube is good you probably have HV. Then the CRT voltages on cathode, grid and screen need to be checked.

The capacitor on that speaker was to eliminate the bass: the speaker was originally used as a tweeter or midrange. You could remove the cap and wire it direct.

Is there an ion trap on this tube and is it on correctly ?

SR
Yes there is , here is a photo of the ion trap....
I don't remember exactly how it went on, and the schematic doesn't specify.
Does this look right to anyone?

It does require a trap.

Are you sure you mean the horizontal output and not the High Voltage Rectifier?

The 1B3 Rectifier will not have any visible glow except perhaps in a dark room, and then only if the High Voltage is working since it derives it's filament voltage from a single turn winding on the Flyback.

Yes, it's the tube in the photo closest to the HV cage.
I used Deoxit in the socket, (I don't think it was dry when I put the tube back in), and when I turned the set on, that hor. out. tube lit up very bright, then went dead.
I don't know if the Deoxit was a catalyst to heat up that tube, but seems like it.
I turned the set on tonight in the dark, and that tube was dead, no light at all coming from it at all.
Would that make no picture appear on the CRT?

Yes there is , here is a photo of the ion trap....
I don't remember exactly how it went on, and the schematic doesn't specify.
Does this look right to anyone?

That is the general location where it goes, however it has to be adjusted precisely to get a Raster.

Assuming you have high voltage the procedure is to turn the brightness and contrast up about 3/4 of the way, then you both rotate the trap side to side and slide it forward and backwards, it is adjusted correctly when the picture reaches the brightest point with no neck shadows and good focus, if there is a separate Focus control you may have to go back and forth a little to get it perfect.

There is a front and back to the Trap also, if it's flipped front to back it may still work but it will be in a spot 180 degrees from where it was originally.

Based on what my set had the magnet on the trap should be pointing towards the left side viewed from the rear (it's correct in your picture) if you can only get a raster with it pointing to the right side then flip it front to back and try again.

It's important not to run the set with a misadjusted trap, particularly if the brightness is up high, supposedly it can damage the gun in the CRT if the Beam is hitting something it's not supposed to be.

Yes, it's the tube in the photo closest to the HV cage.
I used Deoxit in the socket, (I don't think it was dry when I put the tube back in), and when I turned the set on, that hor. out. tube lit up very bright, then went dead.


This is a series string set, the tube heaters are all in series adding up to line voltage, they may be divided into two strings, if you reconnected a wire in the wrong place or caused a short across part of the string it can burn out the heater on one or more of the tubes.

I believe there are several points on this set where that could happen, the heater string wiring going from one board to the next is one possibility, it also goes to the tune I think for the tubes there, if say you connected one end to ground instead of continuing on to the next tube in the string it would put extra voltage across the remaining tubes equal to the amount of the tubes left out.

In cases like this it's a good idea to install a jumper across the heater pins in the CRT socket and leave the tube disconnected until you locate the problem, you don't want to burn out that one!

One other possibility comes to mind, if the Horiz Oscillator isn't running the Horiz Output tube will draw too much current, left in that situation for long it will overheat and short, sometimes taking out the Heater.

It sounds like the tube flared up and burned out immediately on turning the set on though, correct? In that case it's almost certain to be a problem in the Heater wiring.

Okay, well after 2 months waiting for a tube tester, multi meter, and test light, I started back on this Philco Transitone set.
I was able to determine that 3 tubes were bad, replaced them, but still no light.
I took everything apart again, double checked my work, inspected more wires, everything looked good, so I put it back together, said an earnest prayer, now there's a nice bright screen!
I have no Idea what I did, so I will thank God!
It still has some lines, sometimes looks like a film negative when fine tuning it, and has a buzzing sound, the photo fact said to adjust the IF (A9) at the top of the chassis to get rid of the buzz, but the schematic shows that (A9) is actually in the middle of the chassis, a small hole just above the horizontal output tube.
I tried putting a small screwdriver inside of it, (I think it goes inside one of the aluminum rectangular cans), but I don't feel anything to adjust.
Anyone know how to adjust the IF ??

The capacitor on that speaker was to eliminate the bass: the speaker was originally used as a tweeter or midrange. You could remove the cap and wire it direct.

That's probably a tweeter. You aren't going to be satisfied with the sound. The cone is too stiff.
I just repaired a 78 year old speaker cone. I cut the cone from a scrap speaker and used a piece to patch a large hole. :sigh:

Thought this set looked very cool, got it for $45.00
Everthing is there, and looks like a good project.
Took the chassis out, and was wondering if the wire going into the CRT looked right??
Also, The black is peeling off the CRT, anyone know what I should get to re paint it with, if it is a paint?

Magnavox300
The first episodes of Sanford and Son, they had a set like that. A burgler came in and set it outside to pick it up later. :yes:
It must've belonged to a collector, as it was complete. The set was only on one or two episodes. After that, they had incomplete Zenith sets. :thumbsdn:

I tried putting a small screwdriver inside of it, (I think it goes inside one of the aluminum rectangular cans), but I don't feel anything to adjust.
Anyone know how to adjust the IF ??

You need some Plastic "Diddling Sticks" basically Plastic Allen wrenches to adjust the slugs. Don't try to use any metal tools in the slugs, the slugs will break if you do plus the metal will detune the coil.

Radio Shack may still carry the tools, (they wont call them Diddling Sticks).

Here we go:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORE-ALIGNMENT-DRIVER-TOOLS-/320993229868?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abcaffc2c

For intermittent:

1. Make sure the printed circuit grounds are tight; 1/4 hex heads in the corners.

2. Make sure the tube sockets are OK. The holes sometimes get oversize. Pinch them back with a very sharp tool or replace the socket if you're looking for work.

3. The discriminator cans go bad. It should be buzz clean. If it will not adjust out, the can is probably bad.

4. Per above, a plastic tuning tool is essential.

Thanks to all, great information.
I will be looking for those plastic tools.
This hobby requires more patience than I ever imagined....But I still love it.

Merry Christmas!!

Magnavox300

Well, I just got the plastic alignment tools, a new old stock set for $8 all together with shipping....
nice to have them, I'm sure I'll need them in the future.

Adjustments did not make much of a difference in sound buzz, only slightly, so I wonder if the discriminator cans are bad? If so, are they impossible to find??
My first thought though is to check all the resistors for correct value.... some look very worn.
For example, there is a 2 watt resistor between the 100uf and 200uf caps, and it should be a 390ohm.
When I checked it, my meter read it at 489...

So, since I am still new to this hobby, how far off can values be? Is that one okay?
I would hate to change any resistors if not necessary, but thought some looked pretty old and worn.

I guess I can answer my own question...
After a little research, I see there can be a slight tolerance, 5-10%,
depending on the band.
So with that said, I will replace that 390ohm, and any others that fall way out of value.
So far, that's the only one that read far off.

Magnavox300

Okay, this Transitone is killing me....

I replace some resistors that were out of spec, and the picture is better.
But, I think what's going on mostly is there is a loud buzz or hum, I can't tell, and it is only present when you turn up the volume. I think the noise is interfering with the picture.
I checked all the tubes for shorts, they are fine.

The two largest electrolytic caps were valued at 200uf each... I used 220's. Would that be okay?
Also, I put two caps together to make a 40uf, I used a Sprague and a Illinois together, that wouldn't matter would it, using different brands? Both were pretty close to the same voltage.
Just wondering where that loud noise is coming from in the volume?

Yes, 220 is fine and so is doubling up the caps as long as both meet or exceed the voltage rating specified.

I picked up the same set recently only with the UHF option. It's partially working on it's original parts, but the sound is barely audible

I wish I could offer more advice but I haven't had time to really work on it yet.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8601227269_c60f62ff3d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8601227269/)