View Full Version : Philco Town and Country restoration
bandersen 06-29-2012, 08:44 PM I was hanging out with some friends this afternoon and spied this in one of their garages. He said 'sure you can have it' so I brought it home. The front plastic bezel has been damaged, but otherwise it looks OK.
I thought it might be a Philco Seventeener, but I'm not sure.
Can anyone identify it?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/7469967806_9f164472f9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7469967806/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8163/7469972868_a9fc4dc86c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7469972868/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8165/7469972370_27ab738806_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7469972370/)
jr_tech 06-29-2012, 08:56 PM At first I thought that it might be one of the Admiral "playmate" series but the knob placement is wrong.
Found an ad on the 'bay for a Philco "town and country":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-Philco-Portable-TV-Television-Ad-Town-Country-/330609250636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf9d8d14c
jr
bandersen 06-29-2012, 09:04 PM Ah-ha! That's it :) I knew I had seen it somewhere before - audubon5425 was selling one :yes:
Now, what should I do with it ? Scrap it or try to replace the damaged front :scratch2:
jr_tech 06-29-2012, 09:18 PM What is the jug? might it fit a Predicta?
jr
bandersen 06-29-2012, 09:27 PM That's what I was thinking, but it appears to be a 19".
AUdubon5425 06-29-2012, 10:31 PM Bah - I just threw away the cabinet from mine.
One recently sold on epay for something ridiculous, over $150 I think.
It is a nineteen inch set. I still have the chassis and some knobs if you decide to try to restore it. Check the CRT first though, they're pretty uncommon birds.
bandersen 06-29-2012, 10:52 PM Yeah, I figured you wouldn't still have it.
It's cleaning up OK, but it's missing trim and the plastic damage is pretty bad.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7470384026_99fa09db61_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470384026/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8020/7470381574_eeb8b54530_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470381574/)
A few of the "cool chassis" tubes have gone to air
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8165/7470378604_4d07ba9b3d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470378604/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8025/7470372738_b92fd9d87a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470372738/)
I'll check the CRT in a few.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8018/7470369942_4bbc4dcb2d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470369942/)
mpatoray 06-29-2012, 11:21 PM I see another "Friday Night Restoration? Coming on! What was with Philco and this low voltage high deflection angle tubes, where they all as lousy as the ones used in the Predictas?
Matt
bandersen 06-30-2012, 12:20 AM Dunno, but this one tests very good :D Excellent emissions and life test.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7470721598_7ca02c5ca7_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7470721598/)
bandersen 07-01-2012, 01:56 PM All the tubes are original and all but two test very, very bad. Some barely moved the tube tester needle off zero!
Someone must have really watched this set a lot but never had it serviced.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7278/7481135972_9204fe8875_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7481135972/)
miniman82 07-01-2012, 03:30 PM Rejuvination attempt? lol
bandersen 07-01-2012, 03:43 PM I went tube hunting and found either NOS or very good used replacements for all but a couple 11JE8s.
I've never encountered this tube before so I suspect they weren't widely used.
I figured I could throw in the originals just to try powering the set up, but one has gone to air so I'll just have to wait a week or so for some to arrive in the mail.
bandersen 07-01-2012, 04:47 PM Here's a peek at the flyback. It looks OK.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/7482343012_1a10589770_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7482343012/)
I dug up a good 10GN8 which is an acceptable substitute for an 11JE8.
I've got it up on the workbench and am slowly powering it up with a variac n the hopes the electrolytics will reform. So far no problems.
bandersen 07-01-2012, 06:52 PM First signs of life. Seems either the vertical oscillator or output transformer is bad. Sound is pretty bad too.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8012/7483117622_3a50b87029_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7483117622/)
AiboPet 07-01-2012, 07:02 PM I suspect a power problem since it looks like "several" things look subpar....no vertical, ALMOST no horizontal....and that sound problem all make me think the set is generally starving. Are you still on the variac?
From what I see, and you describe "sound" at all, looks like you DO likely have a tuner, IF, reception and at least SOMETHING that looks like HV.
Glad to see this set at least coming along. I've always been fascinated by this particular form factor with the REAL high deflection CRTS and the overall slim profile. I still own NO tube set...and will likely look for something like this as my first one. I'm in an apartment, so no room for a big 'ol roundie. Shame what happened to the front of this set.
I bet back in the day, it was astonishing to see a large screen that could sit on a book case. Sort of the precurser to the whole "flat screen" thing.
bandersen 07-01-2012, 08:04 PM Yes, I'm off the variac. I could be that one or more electrolytics are leaky and dragging down the B+.
I need to track down the service info then I'll do a full overhaul.
DavGoodlin 07-02-2012, 08:21 AM There was a show in the mid-70s called "whats Happenin" and Rog's family had one of these sets. Same color too.
I had a few of these I rescued years ago, easy fixes with the usual paper cap replacements. One thing to be particularly aware of is that aquadag coating peeling off the CRT. I had one of these arcing, left the room and the CRT imploded due to the poor grounding contact. I should have been more aware and would have used one of those long springs hooked to the CRT straps.
holmesuser01 07-02-2012, 09:41 AM I bet this one played until something happened that took out the 17DQ6.
It's such fun finding those odd voltage tubes these days.
dieseljeep 07-02-2012, 10:32 AM [QUOTE=bandersen;3040567]I was hanging out with some friends this afternoon and spied this in one of their garages. He said 'sure you can have it' so I brought it home. The front plastic bezel has been damaged, but otherwise it looks OK.
I thought it might be a Philco Seventeener, but I'm not sure.
Can anyone identify it?
I picked up one on e*** a few years ago. It was in Niles Il. Instead of having it shipped I drove down and picked it up.
All it needs is re-capping, especially in the vertical circuit.
I thought it was one of the best looking, most streamlined portables of it's time.
P.S. The set uses one of the 11JE8 tubes as an audio output. Strange!:scratch2:
electroking 07-02-2012, 11:03 AM I bet this one played until something happened that took out the 17DQ6.
It's such fun finding those odd voltage tubes these days.
Actually those series-string tubes are quite common, although it is
true the 450-ma ones are a bit less usual. Any restoration challenge
is interesting, especially with such a good CRT IMHO. Regards to all.
Note to original poster: I can look up the 11JE8 in my big stockpile,
if I find it you can have it for postage costs.
DavGoodlin 07-02-2012, 11:21 AM Actually those series-string tubes are quite common, although it is
true the 450-ma ones are a bit less usual. Any restoration challenge
is interesting, especially with such a good CRT IMHO. Regards to all.
Note to original poster: I can look up the 11JE8 in my big stockpile,
if I find it you can have it for postage costs.
Yes, what electroking said, I have many of those oddballs myself.:yes:
holmesuser01 07-02-2012, 12:34 PM Yes, what electroking said, I have many of those oddballs myself.:yes:
I do gotta admit that I have lots of oddball tubes, too, just none of what would go in this Philco. 13GY7 anyone?
bandersen 07-02-2012, 01:53 PM Thanks for the offers, but I do have a few 11JE8s on the way already :) Service info too.
bandersen 07-02-2012, 03:21 PM There was a show in the mid-70s called "whats Happenin" and Rog's family had one of these sets. Same color too.
I had a few of these I rescued years ago, easy fixes with the usual paper cap replacements. One thing to be particularly aware of is that aquadag coating peeling off the CRT. I had one of these arcing, left the room and the CRT imploded due to the poor grounding contact. I should have been more aware and would have used one of those long springs hooked to the CRT straps.
Thanks for the tip. I received a nice little shock every time I touched the screen bezel during my power up tests. If I can get the set working, I'll try recoating it with slip plate and using a better ground spring.
bandersen 07-03-2012, 10:37 PM My NOS 11JE8s arrived today and wiscojim kindly supplied a scan of the Sams :)
Now that I know where to probe, I did indeed find that the 275 B+ was only around 200 VDC + 50 vRMS of ripple!
Time to swap out some filter caps :yes:
bandersen 07-05-2012, 05:09 PM I pulled the set apart last night and finally the filter caps are accessible.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/7510738292_a8eacfe17c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7510738292/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/7510737234_e423e9706d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7510737234/)
I like the funky silicon power rectifiers.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7510737766_c95bb31dee_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7510737766/)
The CRT needs some new dag.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7510736324_dc8a71ccbb_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7510736324/)
Glenz75 07-05-2012, 10:27 PM Wow! They sure knew how to cram things in with this model? I'd imagine there would be quite a bit of heat generated when its running. And that short necked shallow CRT....it looks wrong! :D
I've been following your videos on this and amazing how many tubes you found that were bad and yet the CRT is good.
I recently did up a TV to use in the workshop which had being lying dormant for years and half of the tubes in it were also weak or bad but this set has had very little use due to the lack of discoloration on the circuit boards and certain electrolytics that usually fail were still ok and virtually no dry joints on the tube sockets so go figure on that one? :scratch2:Just another strange aspect of old electronics....:yes:
And those silicon diodes...they are weird.... look like caps!
Cheers Glen.
AUdubon5425 07-05-2012, 10:43 PM Well, if you wind up needing anything let me know. I saved the whole chassis plus the speaker and yoke.
bandersen 07-05-2012, 11:38 PM Thanks for the offer. I haven't done much testing yet, but I definitely need knobs.
bandersen 07-06-2012, 02:46 AM Wow! They sure knew how to cram things in with this model? I'd imagine there would be quite a bit of heat generated when its running....
We'll see - it does use "cool chassis" tubes ;) Also, the new caps I'm using are quite a bit smaller so there should be better air flow.
Surprisingly, it's fairly easy to work on once you get the CRT output the way.
Once the ground lugs have been unsoldered, you can even work on this board without removing any of the attached wires.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8164/7513218066_c7669e6a86_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7513218066/)
I hope the other board is as easy to work on.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/7513217428_7f1c92d08f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7513217428/)
DavGoodlin 07-06-2012, 08:01 AM Bob,
Those multi-resistor packs would look suspicious but I'm sure you'll have a good working set after the caps are done.
This may be one of the few TVs that literally build the chassis around the contour of the CRT. Nice investigative work so far!
Dave
bandersen 07-08-2012, 04:56 PM All the resistors in the module were at least 20% high so I replaced them all. Not too difficult really.
The three white cylinders are capacitors and I left them alone.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8027/7530704738_025e2e3e47_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7530704738/)
Almost done with this board. I'm waiting on a 0.0015 @ 1000volt cap to arrive.
Hopefully, the two hybrid modules are OK.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8281/7530705796_7db9f9ff87_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7530705796/)
mpatoray 07-08-2012, 06:50 PM Looking good Bob!
You do some great work with these devices! Hell you inspired me to go find an RCA Radiola 60(probably for way too much money) and go restore it like you have been doing on you Brunswick 5KR, which has bought me a ton!
I have also been doing a video series on that restoration.
Cant wait to see a nice picture form that set :)
Matt
bandersen 07-09-2012, 05:10 PM Thanks. The 5KR sure has been interesting to work on.
As for this set, I took the plunge and unwrapped all the wires from the IF board after carefully labeling them.
It's a pain, but makes the board so much easier to work on.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/7538762662_7c69bb761e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7538762662/)
Eric H 07-09-2012, 07:13 PM Well at least that set looks like it has decent sockets on it, on the 1956 model I'm working on the sockets are on the back side of the board and the tube pins go through the board and into the socket.
The Predictas have normal sockets so they must have learned pretty quickly.
bandersen 07-09-2012, 07:50 PM Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised to find that all the tube sockets are firmly seated with no cracked or lifted circuit board tracks.
holmesuser01 07-10-2012, 07:39 AM Nice.
I didnt see many problems with the low-power handling tubes and these circuit traces when these little sets were popular. The sweep tubes, though... I made good money hard-wiring these sockets!!
Your set looks like it hasn't had a constantly 'ON' life, unlike TV's that were in my house growing up...
kvflyer 07-10-2012, 07:43 AM Bob, I saw a thread some time ago where the OP had cut the wires to the boards and installed a Molex M-F connector so that the board would be easy to service again. My only concern with that would be that it may be a problem with putting all wires next to each other, which may result in coupling of signals that should not be coupled! Sounds like a lot of work. But the first time you have to remove the board again, you smile. Maybe a couple of two or three connector ones would work. But again, that may truly be overkill.
I guess you are going to just solder the wires to the wire wrap pins?
Phil Nelson 07-10-2012, 12:21 PM I investigated Molex connectors when restoring my second Predicta, and decided that the drawbacks outweighed the convenience. In this article, scroll down to "Adding Quick Disconnects to the PC Board:"
http://antiqueradio.org/PhilcoH3412LPredictaTelevision.htm
The boards on this TV don't have quite as many connectors, so they wouldn't get quite as cluttered as a Predicta. On the other hand, that means they are not as big a chore to remove in the first place.
By coincidence, yesterday I was in a hobby store, and as I suspected, they have a variety of teeny electrical connectors for RC applications. The only ones that looked good for this purpose are very small, round male/female connectors. They were quite expensive, of course. And they offer no real advantage over using a female Molex .062 connector as mentioned in the article.
When you service a board like this, I definitely recommend soldering the old wire-wrap leads back onto the pins.
Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
kvflyer 07-10-2012, 08:03 PM ...
When you service a board like this, I definitely recommend soldering the old wire-wrap leads back onto the pins.
Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
That is the only way to go in my opinion (for what it's worth ;)). A small loop around the pin, solder and it is every bit as good as when brand new. Wire wrap is often touted by the manufacturers as being better or stronger or whatever. Actually, it is quicker and time is money. I worked in the telecommunications industry and that is the reason we used wrap. The old solder frame took a long, long time but was never compromised when done correctly.
Just my 2¢ and of course, 2¢ won't get you a cup of coffee today (or cuppa as said in Australia). ;)
bandersen 07-11-2012, 05:00 PM I had some square Molex connectors lying around so I did a little test. They don't quite fit right over the rectangular posts, but I found that if I turn them 45 degrees it's a decent fit.
I figure I'll give them a try on a few posts.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7259/7552269182_16b64b788a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7552269182/)
Eric H 07-11-2012, 11:23 PM On the set I'm doing I just unwrapped them (They were soldered as well) when I put it back it's just a single turn around the post and a dab of solder, I figure it's a good as it ever was and not all that bad to undo the second time if you have to.
kvflyer 07-12-2012, 09:36 AM On the set I'm doing I just unwrapped them (They were soldered as well) when I put it back it's just a single turn around the post and a dab of solder, I figure it's a good as it ever was and not all that bad to undo the second time if you have to.
Exactly!
bandersen 07-15-2012, 01:48 AM I finished with the IF board. Now, I need to remount it and check a few other components scattered around the frame. Then, I'll try firing it up again.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8291/7572841518_df8fcd67ab_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7572841518/)
mstaton 07-15-2012, 01:52 AM Were all the resistors off value? Looks like you replaced most of them.
bandersen 07-15-2012, 02:46 AM I spot tested a few and almost all were high so I just replaced them all. It really didn't take that long. These PCBs are fairly well made and I didn't have any trouble with traces lifting off.
bandersen 07-16-2012, 03:26 AM I finished reconnecting everything and tried firing it up.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7581272498_4210cba2b1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7581272498/)
B+ is fine now and I have full horizontal width, but still no vertical. I did resistance check on the VOT and yoke and they're fine.
Also no sound. At least I had very weak sound before.
I'll fire up the scope tomorrow and poke around.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8001/7581274150_eb91666d96_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7581274150/)
bandersen 07-16-2012, 03:47 AM Doh! I think I know what the problem is. I had to order a 0.0015 @ 1000 volt cap for the vertical circuit and I never got around to installing it :o
kvflyer 07-16-2012, 07:27 AM Doh! I think I know what the problem is. I had to order a 0.0015 @ 1000 volt cap for the vertical circuit and I never got around to installing it :o
Bob, sounds like you have joined our club, "CRS". It comes with maturity. Seriously, waiting to see a picture. CRT looks healthy!
Phil Nelson 07-16-2012, 11:49 AM Love the tinfoil hat on the CRT. Looks like something I would do :)
Phil Nelson
bandersen 07-16-2012, 02:41 PM Bob, sounds like you have joined our club, "CRS". It comes with maturity. Seriously, waiting to see a picture. CRT looks healthy!
I hope it's more because I'm working on it at 3am ;)
Love the tinfoil hat on the CRT. Looks like something I would do :)
Phil Nelson
Hey it works :yes: I figure I'll go with tin foil for now and spray on some slip plate once it's working.
Luckily, I was able to easily install the missing cap from the topside and we have full raster :banana:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7247/7585007706_d8e75f5e61.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7585007706/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/7585008948_5bfa630116.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7585008948/)
Next problem - no sound and no video. I did hear some sound briefly as the set warmed up though. I'll do some voltage checks on the IF board.
DavGoodlin 07-16-2012, 03:14 PM AGC issue? maybe
Now that you have vertical, you can be sure it was Westinghouse!
The value of this TV keeps going up and up.
bandersen 07-17-2012, 03:21 AM Good call on the AGC. I found some really weird voltages throughout the keyed AGC circuit leading all the way back to the flyback.
At one point my DMMs overload indicator was lighting up even though I only showed about 150 VDC. I switch to AC mode and the reading were off the scale.
That leads me to suspect something in the circuit where a pulse is picked off the flyback for the key pulse. Possibly a 120 pF 5,000 volt cap on the flyback frame.
I popped the plate cap off the HOT to kill the HV and test my theory. Bingo! We have sound :music:
I'll have to disassemble the set again and go poking around for the culprit.
bandersen 07-17-2012, 04:11 PM Progress :banana:
Rather than pulling the set apart, I did some more experimenting.
Finally, it occurred to me to just hook up a battery to the AGC bus (like when doing an alignment) to force it into the correct voltage range.
That got me some harsh video and sound.
I disconnected the battery and was surprised to still have sound and video. After some head scratching, I realized that if I rotated the contrast control to one extreme I could get sound and video without forcing the AGC bus.
So maybe it just comes down to a bad contrast control ? More testing later tonight....
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/7592913368_32bd7d3062_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7592913368/)
Reece 07-17-2012, 05:36 PM If it's a matter of not enough resistance at the extreme of the control, maybe try a series resistor to add some.
bandersen 07-17-2012, 09:37 PM It seems the 36K control is shot. I get about 0 ohms at one extreme but after a few degrees of travel, it jumps to 500K and stays there. DeOxit didn't help.
It's an oddball control with a shaft running through it to the volume pot/power switch.
One good thing though is that only two legs of the pot are used so I can easily stick a fixed value in there that gives me a decent picture for now.
Maybe AUdubon5425 saved this control from his set :scratch2:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8283/7594553388_baaa62b912_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7594553388/)
dieseljeep 07-17-2012, 09:52 PM It seems the 36K control is shot. I get about 0 ohms at one extreme but after a few degrees of travel, it jumps to 500K and stays there. DeOxit didn't help.
It's an oddball control with a shaft running through it to the volume pot/power switch.
One good thing though is that only two legs of the pot are used so I can easily stick a fixed value in there for now that give me a decent picture.
Maybe AUdubon5425 saved this control from his set :scratch2:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8283/7594553388_baaa62b912_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7594553388/)
Another of Philco's odd-ball controls. The control you have looks like a CTS made one. Maybe you can find a resistance element that's close in resistance from another control. I've done that on a few occasions. :scratch2:
AUdubon5425 07-17-2012, 11:05 PM Let me hunt around for a box and you can have the whole chassis for shipping. Think I saved the yoke too.
bandersen 07-17-2012, 11:38 PM Let me hunt around for a box and you can have the whole chassis for shipping. Think I saved the yoke too.
Thanks :D
bandersen 07-18-2012, 02:46 AM I went to temporarily tack in a 50K pot when I noticed the remains of a wire on the unused terminal. I bet this pot fried and someone switched this wire to the other side to keep it running.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7278/7595731826_051975ca71_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7595731826/)
The 50K pot plus some control tweaking made a big difference.
Here's some stuff from an over the air DTV receiver fed into the antenna terminals on channel 3. Cartoons look especially sharp.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/7595729772_4aca10db6b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7595729772/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7134/7595728934_0f4f240e19_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7595728934/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8012/7595732712_870b82f35f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7595732712/)
Reece 07-18-2012, 05:28 AM Yessir, really sharp!
kvflyer 07-18-2012, 07:23 AM ... I bet this pot fried and someone switch this wire to the other side to key it running....
...
I would bet you are right!
mpatoray 07-18-2012, 12:31 PM Bib,
WOW! It is looking great, another set brought back from the dead! And form the video you posted the sound seems to be pretty decent as well!
Matt
bandersen 07-18-2012, 02:52 PM Thanks. The sound is pretty good but seems odd projected out from the side of the set rather than the front.
The safety glass has some nasty scratches that I suppose I'll just have to live with.
The CRT is very nice though.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8146/7599054688_38263759c8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7599054688/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8432/7599053900_f45846ae60_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7599053900/)
AiboPet 07-18-2012, 03:31 PM It's okay.....I call this "Survivor patina". The sort of thing MOST would pass up the set for, but wouldn't keep me from rescuing it and putting it RIGHT next to the pristine ones.
DavGoodlin 07-18-2012, 03:35 PM It's okay.....I call this "Survivor patina". The sort of thing MOST would pass up the set for, but wouldn't keep me from rescuing it and putting it RIGHT next to the pristine ones.
My 1958 Philco with abrasions on the front. Someday , the right buffing wheel and compound will motivate me to try and fix it.:yes:
Eric H 07-18-2012, 05:31 PM Someday a clean cabinet will show up for it, until then it's the perfect prop for one of those post apocalyptic movies! :yes:
Mal Fuller 07-18-2012, 05:49 PM I well remember those sets as pretty good looking. I also remember there being problems with the contrast control. Philcos, while sometimes problematic, always had the engineering it took to produce a good sharp picture when all was well.
mstaton 07-19-2012, 01:57 AM [QUOTE=bandersen;3042360]Thanks. The sound is pretty good but seems odd projected out from the side of the set rather than the front.
The safety glass has some nasty scratches that I suppose I'll just have to live with.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8146/7599054688_38263759c8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7599054688/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8432/7599053900_f45846ae60_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7599053900/)[/QUO
You can fill the scratches with automotive clear coat paint, the small brush on stuff you find at auto parts stores, fill, sand and buff. Maybe test it on other plastic first. It has worked on the plastic panels in front of plasma screens. had pretty good luck with it. hardly noticeable when done.
mstaton 07-19-2012, 02:18 AM Sorry, I thought it was plastic.
Kevin Kuehn 07-19-2012, 11:02 PM I've often wondered what one those windshield repair guys could do with a scratched safety glass.
bandersen 07-19-2012, 11:34 PM Dunno, but it could be worth experimenting with one of the windshield scratch kits available.
I also got a tip about using a felt buffer and Cerium Oxide powder mixed with water to polish them out.
compu_85 07-20-2012, 06:47 PM This might be a good use for a dead CRT... Put a scratch in the face then try to remove it.
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bandersen 07-22-2012, 08:24 PM I unmounted the CRT and cleaned off the remaining aquadag.
Then I masked it off and sprayed on a three coats of Slip Plate. The resulting resistance is very close to what I measure on other CRTs. Around 5K with probes 8" apart.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7626353782_40d1153ede_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7626353782/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7626353020_5ed0cba02a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7626353020/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7279/7626352296_15f7a3047a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7626352296/)
ctc17 07-22-2012, 09:31 PM You can measure the capacitance with an eye type cap tester. There should be a spec for that crt.
Eric H 07-22-2012, 10:12 PM You can measure the capacitance with an eye type cap tester. There should be a spec for that crt.
I don't think it would be all that critical would it?
bandersen 07-22-2012, 10:33 PM I don't think it would be all that critical would it?
It doesn't seem so since the datasheet says 850-1400pF. I'm measuring around 900pF with my vintage Solar CB-1-60 cap tester.
I would think it's also possible to stick a 1000pF HV cap on the flyback to filter the HV and not use the coating at all.
ctc17 07-22-2012, 10:34 PM well the dag + glass = filter capacitor. IIRC the small crts are something like 800-1200pf, its enough to smooth out the hv.
bandersen 08-05-2012, 02:40 PM I sprayed a little more slip plate in the corners and got it up to 1,000pF.
Then I did some final tweaking and put the set back together.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7719526368_22c01ebdc9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7719526368/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8294/7719525098_1967b17c60.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7719525098/)
I sprayed some semi-gloss black on the metal portion of the cabinet and silver paint on the trim. I'd still love to find a better cabinet someday but at least it's somewhat presentable now.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7136/7715778472_a287c24a6a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7715778472/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7715779060_62fdcbe59f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7715779060/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8286/7719527888_b2a12b28e4_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7719527888/)
holmesuser01 08-05-2012, 02:46 PM First, I see the resolution of the video. Yes!
This little set has probably never seen such a clean signal... Are you going thru the tuner?
Boobtubeman 08-05-2012, 02:49 PM Holy smokes thats Sweeeeeeeeet!!! :D Exelently done!!! :thmbsp:
bandersen 08-05-2012, 02:51 PM Thanks!
First, I see the resolution of the video. Yes!
This little set has probably never seen such a clean signal... Are you going thru the tuner?
Sure. I'm using an over the air ATSC to NTSC converter box. The RF output on channel 3 is going through a 75-300 balun into the antenna terminals on the back of the set.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8281/7719681590_8e4a034397_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7719681590/)
holmesuser01 08-05-2012, 02:54 PM Thanks!
Sure. I'm using an over the air ATSC to NTSC converter box. The RF output on channel 3 is going through a 75-300 balun into the antenna terminals on the back of the set.
Sho' looks purdy. :yes::thmbsp::D
Kevin Kuehn 08-05-2012, 02:54 PM Loving the way this set has come back to life. Excellent work, as usual.
So what is the test pattern showing the video response at?
bandersen 08-05-2012, 02:59 PM I think around 3.5 MHZ. I'd have to dig out the Sencore VA62 manual to know for sure. Also, I haven't done an alignment on this set yet.
snelson903 08-05-2012, 03:14 PM that's a nice sharp picture ,good work .
Eric H 08-05-2012, 09:48 PM Looks great!
zenithfan1 08-05-2012, 09:56 PM WOW! That thing really came back to life! It looks a lot better all cleaned up. I hope you can find a bezel for it. That picture looks perfect!
Phil Nelson 08-05-2012, 10:48 PM Boy, great picture on that one.
Phil Nelson
bandersen 08-05-2012, 11:31 PM WOW! That thing really came back to life! It looks a lot better all cleaned up. I hope you can find a bezel for it. That picture looks perfect!
Thanks. I'll wait a while and if a bezel doesn't turn up I'll break out some Bondo and try to repair this one.
dieseljeep 08-06-2012, 09:31 AM Thanks. I'll wait a while and if a bezel doesn't turn up I'll break out some Bondo and try to repair this one.
If anyone can do it, it's you! As I said before, Your restorations are second to none.
If there's anything I can't stand, it's a hack restoration.:thumbsdn:
mpatoray 09-26-2012, 04:04 PM Thought you might like to see this Philco AD from 1961 for the Town & Country.
Matt
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