Would using a UHF modulator improve my picture quality and reduce interference I get from incandescent light bulbs? If so, what is the best cheap UHF modulator I can get.

Also, what would be the best balun to use?

The best cheap modulators you can get, for multiple channels, are used commercial "agile modulators" on Ebay, such as the Blonder-Tongue AM40-550, AM60-550 or similar.

I have not heard of interference from incandescent bulbs. What exactly do you see?

Regarding baluns, I typically get better performance from physically larger ones versus smaller ones (if you are referring to 75-to-300-ohm transformers).

Interference from light bulbs? Are you wired to the tuner input or trying to broadcast locally? If wired, you should be swamping out any radiated interference.

These are old Mazda bulbs. They mess up the low VHF stations in my room.

Here's what it looks like. More noisy on channel 3, less on 4, but still there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/vhfnoise.jpg

This happens on the Hitachi too, not just this Samsung.

Are the Mazda bulbs vintage (ca 1910) carbon filament ?

jr

They are vintage, but tungsten. But as far as I know, I thought all mazdas were tungsten.

The interference that you pictured really looks like that that can be generated by an old carbon filament bulb... if your bulb is indeed tungsten filament, i would check the soldering at the base of the bulb for signs of arcing... or perhaps look for arcing at the two points that the filament attach to the header wires from the base... or perhaps the switch in the fixture is bad, or a corroded socket?

jr

Hmm, doesn't appear to be arcing, but I don't know, maybe it is filament.. Let me get a closeup of the bulb.. If I use a dimmer switch and turn it down a notch, the noise goes away.

Here's the bulb.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/IMG_0612.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/IMG_0614.jpg

It looks like tungsten to me..

NICE! :thmbsp:
I would agree... tungsten. For nostalgia lighting, I generally use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-134019-Nostalgic-Squirrel-Cage-style/dp/B001797M6S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338699646&sr=8-1

Looks prettymuch like the "real deal", does not cause RFI, and I will not feel bad when it burns out.

jr

The best cheap modulators you can get, for multiple channels, are used commercial "agile modulators" on Ebay, such as the Blonder-Tongue AM40-550, AM60-550 or similar.

I have not heard of interference from incandescent bulbs. What exactly do you see?

Regarding baluns, I typically get better performance from physically larger ones versus smaller ones (if you are referring to 75-to-300-ohm transformers).

I looked up the price of these Blonder Tongue's, way out of my price range. I'm seeing like $700 for those. I don't need a clear picture that bad. ;)

I was thinking about under $100..

Perhaps this? http://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-5415-Single-Channel-Modulator/dp/B000246TJK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1

Here's what it looks like. More noisy on channel 3, less on 4, but still there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/vhfnoise.jpg

This happens on the Hitachi too, not just this Samsung.

You still didn't say if you are wired to the set or broadcasting to the rabbit ears.

If you are wired to the tuner input, then make sure the antenna is disconnected. If you still have interference when directly wired with the antenna disconnected, a third party consumer modulator probably will not be any better than the channel 3/4 modulator in the VCR/DVD player. In this case, the interference may be conducted rather than emitted, and a line filter could help.

Oh, sorry. It's wired into the cable. The antennas are just there for show, they aren't actually wired in to anything.

Hmm, doesn't appear to be arcing, but I don't know, maybe it is filament.. Let me get a closeup of the bulb.. If I use a dimmer switch and turn it down a notch, the noise goes away.

Sheesh!

I have not seen that problem since the 1950's when those lamps were aggressively replaced.

Try it on a circuit without the dimmer switch. If that cures the problem, then it is the dimmer switch.

If not, try a 600 volt .01 mfd (better yet, a line bypass) condenser across the line in the lamp.

For gosh sakes, keep the antique bulb and use a reproduction, as they are replaceable.

(Another very unlikely possibility is that whoever installed the dimmer switch wired it into the wrong side of the line.)

James

There's no use in enjoying an antique bulb if I can even use it, besides, the color of the reproduction bulbs are not even the same as the real antique bulbs.

I generally use the bulbs on a dimmer switch anyway and have it down less than half, but sometimes I do have to turn them up so I can see what I'm doing on my desk.

I looked up the price of these Blonder Tongue's, way out of my price range. I'm seeing like $700 for those. I don't need a clear picture that bad. ;)

I was thinking about under $100..
How about $80 shipped?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SURPLUS-BLONDER-TOUNGE-AM-60-550B-AGILE-MODULATOR-/251075436769

I am not affiliated with this item or the seller.

Perhaps this? http://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-5415-Single-Channel-Modulator/dp/B000246TJK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1
Channel Plus items generally work pretty well in my experience, so this should be a decent unit.

the color of the reproduction bulbs are not even the same as the real antique bulbs.


Huh? Are the envelopes of your old bulbs tinted or something? In general there should be no problem matching the color... get the temperature of the filament the same, and the color should match (see "black body" radiation). My repro bulbs (see Amazon link) look quite orange at normal line voltage, and a dimmer control can reduce the temperature more, into to the red region, if desired.

jr

No the glass is not tinted and for some reason though the colors seem to be more yellow than orange

How about $80 shipped?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SURPLUS-BLONDER-TOUNGE-AM-60-550B-AGILE-MODULATOR-/251075436769

I am not affiliated with this item or the seller.

Hmm, I might not be able to afford that one in time.. I took a second look at my bank account, not looking too good.. Otherwise I'd take it.

Also it shows on the back IF in.. Will this even work for my composite video stuff? Not sure how that would even hook up.

You know what? I might get it.. Put it on credit so I can improve my credit score. (I only ever used credit once and I paid it all off on time, but I'd like to keep showing I can pay off things).

I asked them to post the other side to make sure it has the composite inputs, as I saw in another pic that they should, on a bracket with IF out.

EDIT: Ordered.

The IF in jack has an RG-6 or similar cable looped from another jack (maybe IF out?), that is visible in the first picture. Essentially, the unit is two things: The modulator with its fixed-frequency (IF) output, and a variable-frequency ("agile") converter that changes the IF to whatever channel you want to use. These devices can output all of the VHF channels and dozens of cable channels as well as UHF channels up to 550 MHz (so, up to maybe channel 27?).

All of these devices I have seen do have "baseband" (composite video, and audio) inputs. You will probably need to add two RCA-to-F adapters, since the inputs are F connectors also if I remember right.

Ok, I'll get it all hooked up when it arrives. Now, how do I adjust the RF output level, so I can just attach it directly to the UHF terminals on my TV? I'm going to use a UHF channel because I really want to test this TV's UHF tuner too.