So my convergence on my TV is really bad in the top left corner.

How do I adjust the convergence rings on the neck of the tube? I have never dealt with that before, ever..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/IMG_0226.jpg

Which btw, this is funny, cause a while ago, before I focussed the flyback, the convergence looked a bit different in other areas.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/conv.jpg

Those are tough to converge. First, degauss the tube well, as the convergence can be thrown off by magnetized mounting screws, or magnetized shadow mask that the built-in degausser can't always take care of. On those inline tubes, there are small PM magnets around the yoke, which enhance corner convergence. If you see one in the corner of the tube, behind where the misalignment is, you could try marking it with white paint, and move it a little to see if it fixes or worsens the problem. Again, it's too complicated to try to describe here, but the bottom line is that you have to fool with carefully. The fundamentals are that if there are a total of four rings, the two closest to he yoke are the purity. The rear pair are the CENTER red/green "fine" convergence, and if there is an additional pair (total of six rings), those do other funny things with the center convergence (nice technical term, LOL). The edge convergence is done ONLY by yoke tilt. You remove the rubber wedges, but to not loosen the yoke clamp. Use the wedges to tilt the front of the yoke up & down for side-to-side convergence, and side-to-side for top & bottom convergence. The most annoying thing is that moving any of the rings, can throw the purity off too.

It might also be helpful to get a copy of the Sams or the Hitachi manual for that set, and read the procedure. Sometimes they give good hints & tips more than the regular procedure.

NOTE: If the set has ever been dropped, it might have a dinged shadow mask, and that would make it impossible to get purity and convergence so good.

Charles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYB1L8AIeq4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoBqm4ThJxw&feature=related

this one is pretty interesting about automated crt disassembly. I didn't know
the phosphorous could just be vacuumed off the surface of the glass....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=bT2DOwvLQoE

mark the assembly before you start.it will give you a place to revisit when you turn and twist on this for hours.you will never get convergence perfect.all you can hope for is to improve it slightly.it looks very good right now.the sylvania e chassis 19 inch portables were the only sets that i found to get perfect convergence.that was strictly my job in the shop days.no other tech wanted to do this so i got the responsibility.make your adjustments very slight and use the yoke wedges!that looks like the only adjustment you might have to make.

This is the CRT setup.. It has 6 rings.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/hitachi6.jpg

I was using compressed air earlier on the insides to try and clean it, and one of the tape on the yoke wires popped off. It's going to be ok, right? Or do I need to put on new tape?

Seriously? You're worried about convergence even though 99% of the screen looks perfect? Good Lord, don't ever get a roundie! There's nothing wrong with that screen shot, back away from the screen a foot or two, be happy!

Well it's not so innocent when it's showing a picture. When showing a grid it looks halfway decent. When showing a picture it becomes something else.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/_IGP6838.jpg

Look at the sail at the top left, the blue guns are aiming a whole centimeter off from where it should be hitting, and it's also seen in the pirate flag. Also, the top sword doesn't seem well converged either, whereas the bottom sword looks perfect.

It may be me, but I am a perfectionist.

Holy crap, I found an old picture of when this TV was last powered up before it was dismantled (and still on the solid state chassis). The picture sucked bad!!

http://blackevilweredragon.deviantart.com/art/TV-Closeup-22348328

Ok I'm fine with what it shows now.

Actually, I think this CRT may BE a delta-gun.

When I was looking at the yoke, most of the neck of the CRT is hidden, but it looks like the guns may have been in a pyramid formation.

Thing is I didn't have a clear view so I don't know for certain.

EDIT: Nah it can't be, it wouldn't make sense. It's an 80's TV, and it doesn't have the millions of controls like a normal deltagun TV does.

EDIT2: Cleaned the back of the tube, it's inline, never mind.

I think you could definitely improve the upper-left convergence with a couple of those "flag" magnets, without moving the yoke or the rings (any more than was already done). If you do not already know the procedure to use them, essentially you slide one under the edge of the yoke in various positions in the area that matches where you need improvement, then stick the magnet down when you find the right spot (watching the effects on your test pattern). Two magnets here would be better than trying to get all the change with only one; position each to improve part of the mis-converged area. It does take some practice to get it ideal. WARNING: If this is a "hot chassis" TV, use an isolation transformer! Perhaps you can get the magnets from a junked TV or computer monitor?

Well I did a 25" sanyo last year with those rings and it came out almost perfect. If I knew about those little "flag magnets" it most likely would be perfect. Maybe this would be a good thing to use on round screen sets?? What the hell, my ctc5 has movable magnets all around the screen, why not try those little tape on magnets closer to the yoke?? Anyway, if you want to you can make it nearly perfect, its a small screen its possible to get it nearly perfect. All my 17" computer monitors ARE PERFECT, I'm sure you could pull it off using everything available.

...It may be me, but I am a perfectionist.
Perfectionism is the manic form of fuddyduddy-ism.

Just kiddin'.
:tongue::D

Definitely not a delta gun if it has rings... All delta gun tubes have dynamic convergence boards and pots, and electromagnetic coils behind the yoke for each of the three guns' static convergence. Only one blue lateral magnet and two purity rings on the tube neck.

Nothing wrong with perfectionism... Just as long as there is patience to go along with it! (and my wife says being single would be better for perfectionists, so I'm now less of a perfectionist).

Charles

nick is right.back away and watch it!looks good.no glass tube is perfect.no monitor,tv,etc.some are very close but none are perfect.this is a common practice with beginners or perfectionists.i was like this in the shop days and spent more hours than i should have twisting and turning.run through the procedure twice and move on.i applaud your desire to make it the best you can but it looks very good as it is.very sharp picture and you should be proud to own it

Damn, so while I was moving my TV, I hadn't realized I put it right next to a magnet and now messed up the color.

I do not have a degaussing coil, but is there any quick and dirty way to try and fix it? I will get a degausing coil, but I want to watch Titanic right now and don't think the water should be green. ;)

If you have an old tape head demagnetizer or a bulk tape eraser that could work.......Connecting a scrap yoke to a variac could also potentially work.

It can be a tad tricky to make it work with out a proper TV degaussing coil though.

If your set has a built in Degausser then leaving it off for a while and turning it back on should clear up any minor magnetism.

If it's more serious then you will need a coil, sometimes and Old Weller Soldering Gun will work, hold it near the screen, turn it on and move it in a circular motion while moving away from the screen, release the trigger when it's no longer having any effect.

get a larger crt set and put the two screens face to face. Power up the larger one then power it off. I've used this method with my 35" trinitron and smaller magnetized tv's and it works a charm.

My friend came over with his degaussing coil. He fixed it for me, but this bigger TV method I will try in the future.

get a larger crt set and put the two screens face to face. Power up the larger one then power it off. I've used this method with my 35" trinitron and smaller magnetized tv's and it works a charm.
This sounds great. "Jump-starting" a magnetized CRT! :)

I imagine it must work pretty well.

Collect 2 or 3 degausing coils from old CRT computer monitors. Wire them in series, keeping the direction of the wind the same, add a momentary switch handy and close to the coil then tape it up. You now have a free degausing coil for strong, on demand demagnetising of color CRT's. It will warm up but you only have it on for less than 15 seconds anyway. When I was in the biz we had a mirrored wall it helped to see the whole screen, no charge for that added tidbit. :-)

When manualy degausing a trinitron type CRT dont get too close. The field can get so strong it will distort the shadow mask and result in purity problems that can't be resolved. Good practice with any color CRT, if you start hearing a constant hum from the CRT you'r too close and at risk.

Trini's don't have a shadow mask...

I don't think this particular set has that kind of CRT, so it probably does have a mask. Even so, you have to try pretty hard to bend a shadow mask. A degaussing won't do it by itself, you need a strong magnet.

We all know what I mean. Aperture grill, shadow mask same function, still ferrous, Trinitrons VERY fragile and unstable, be careful!

I smelled a hot sencore degaus coil that was left on near a 19" color set that was rolled next to it on a cart. Never could get the lower left corner right purity wise. Had to replace the CRT. Tech school .

There was a Panasonic set at work in my division officer's work space last year, and he complained to me that it had a snowy and impure picture. Guess he knew I wouldn't turn down the chance to troubleshoot a set on company time. lol

Took the back off, and what do I find? The degaussing circuit had been stuck on because of a bad relay for who knows how long, but it was long enough to turn the PCB and all the components completely black. I removed the components in the degaussing circuit, unplugged the coil, then did a manual degaussing with my home made one. Set then made a pretty decent picture, and it's still there working to this day. Too bad purity will be shot to hell if they ever move it.

... Good practice with any color CRT, if you start hearing a constant hum from the CRT you'r too close and at risk.

My Sony KV-27V10 has a LOUD degausing noise when it powers on. Loud hum from the aperture grill, fades away in a second. Been that way since 1995. Friends who bought similar sets asked about the loud noise. Normal.

I've used convergence permalloy strips many times to get a corner or side area to converge when everything else was good.

The super el-cheapo RCA CTC-51K portable, never was equipped with an internal deguassing coil. That set has only a slightly better picture picture than a GE Portacolor, which isn't saying much. Any other VKer's have experience with this model?

...If it's more serious then you will need a coil, sometimes and Old Weller Soldering Gun will work, hold it near the screen, turn it on and move it in a circular motion while moving away from the screen, release the trigger when it's no longer having any effect.
Um.. not to be a fuddyduddy:o but the preferred method is to turn it on at least 6' away from the set and move it in slowly, then do the rest as you say. Avoids the sudden jolt of switch-on that way.

:)

How strong of a magnet would it need to be to permanently damage a shadow mask?

I have one of those magnets that clip onto a fridge that can hold screws and tools.. A long time ago when I had a party, it was placed in front of this TV to the point of touching the glass.. Drunks thought it was cool. I nearly crapped a brick..

This has caused a slight "bluish" center on white screens.. Not seen easily, but on an all white screen, you can slightly see it..

Here's a picture of the mentioned spot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/purity.jpg

Notice how the center is slightly discolored. No matter how many times I use a degaussing coil it will not go away.