looks to be in very nice condition, too busy to mess with it now but will get some pics later

:banana:

:D Congratulations! I worked on my 1975 HE chassis last weekend, and it produces as good a picture as can be expected from a Portacolor. Sometimes it seems the G-Y is weak, scenes with grass, like sports fields especially, and at other times the scene is OK, but all checks out. Just the nature of my little set, I suppose.
Good Luck with yours!! :banana:
Kevin

Kewl ! We kinda make fun of 'em, but they really are neat little sets !

there is one on ebay right now with a really nice picture.... words not usually used with Portacolor in the same sentence..

jimmy cricket, it works and it makes a very nice pic!!

when I 1st tried it, nothing but a blank raster (no snow) just some odd sounds.

wiggled tube, no joy then out of no where it just popped on. I guess the tuner osc tube was not working, but after it came on I got a pretty nice pic, touched up the screen drives some and the yoke was twisted a bit. The tint control seems a little wonky and the degauss does not seem to do anything, but other than that its working pretty good. waiting for some good green to see how that looks.

it looks like it lived its entire life inside, not mint but close. Convergence is quite good.

green is somewhat weak, tested the CRT, yep green gun is weak...

screen shot. I did replace the 6AC10 seemed to help the color a bit

so is the 11SP22 compatible with a 10VADP22? I am assuming the 11 and 10v is the same, question is focus voltage etc...

Hi Dave:
This guide originally from Video Display Corp says "YES" :banana:

http://www.paulswan.me/arcade/datasheets/VDC-CRT-X-Ref.pdf


Do you have a spare 10VADP22, is that why you are asking?

Walt Anderson

I saw that same guide and thought is said no. I am looking to see what would work, do not have a spare. Seen some other threads since posting and seems like there are low volt and high volt focus, I assume this is a low volt, and also some mention of the anode cap on the other side.

I dont think the CRT is the real problem, the grid drive to the green gun is REAL low, like 5v PP vs the 28v ref in sams on a keyed rainbow generator. I plan to look into the parts in the matrix.

You are right on the CRT sub. I was, shall we say, a bit over optimistic in my interpretation. :headscrat I was comparing subs as a group, not line-by-line.:no:

:banana::music:The television apparatus is so very fine. I wish I could shrink himself provides for very small, and to live in the set:banana:!

some progress made, autorestore of the CRT seems to have taken, G is testing as good as B and R now. Also getting good spread of the color bars after fooling around with the B and R balance pots (not the screen or drive, these are located under the crt, and seem to effect the output from the demodulated signal and not the gain bias of the CRT like the drive and CRT pots. I presume they must be correctly set in order for the proper matix decoding of the G-Y signal.

:banana::music:The television apparatus is so very fine. I wish I could shrink himself provides for very small, and to live in the set:banana:!
Misa nota undersatnin' whata yousa sayin'....Yousa's grammer a bit funny. :D

put it back in and now the too much green (have the tint fully CW, not sure what happened. Anyway its getting better. I am sure the key is getting those balance pots set correctly (not the CRT bias pots, but the trimmers on the main board that are part of the R-Y and B-Y decoding. I really don't like taking it apart again, but seem like I may have to just to get at the adjustments. Oh and the darn screen and drive pot shafts are sloted, but part of the slot is broken so its nearly impossible to adj those once the back is on.

I've got a 1966 Porta Color model M213CWD that was owned by a priest. Low hours on it and real clean. Used to sell those sets in the later models. Also have a 1977 but it's not called a Porta Color. Nice sets.

got the porta color on the bench again, decided to take another stab at it after seeing the CTC-4 over in the early color and hear oldhyro talk about a misaligned quadrature coil. The CTC-4 looked a LOT like my porta color as far as color demodulation. I put the vectorscope on it and it was UGLY no circle at all just a line. so I tried tweeking the bottom coil, could increase and decrease the line but no circle. Then I switched to the top coil, BINGO circle opens up and I can see the color fingers, wow what a difference and it was only a minor tweak. Anyway the all the colors are showing up on the gated color bars now, a HUGE improvement. I need to refine my technique on using the vectorscope but is sure did the trick on the porta color.

watching MASH even those weak greens come if fine with correct flesh tones. What a difference!! looking forward to Columbo tonight :yes:

for you early porta color owners the coil that fixed everything was A17 on the sams also known as L22 the top coil.

some pics after the tweak of the coil on the chroma before the green was non existent

and a few more