View Full Version : Early 60's Silvertone CTC 10-11?


Eric H
01-06-2012, 05:38 PM
I went to Victorville today to pick up a late 50's Magnavox B&W console, it was $25 so I figured what the heck.

The seller told me ealier that he had a big Silvertone Color set also and that it was a tube set, I figured it would be an early 70's model perhaps but no, it's a Roundie!

Not sure exactly what chassis is is other than an RCA clone, it has the two knobs under the channel changer and four across the bottom under the speaker, it also has a Safety Glass so it should have an unbonded tube, original I think because it has the Silvertone logo on the base.
It checked weak right off but I let it cook for a few minutes and it went way high in the good range, it stayed in the good range after I dropped the voltage to 5v so I think it'll be OK.

It's missing the back and the knob, the plate behunds the knob is beat up and the cabinet is rough.

I'd like to restore it but if I can't at least find the knobs I'm not sure what I'll do with it.

The odd perspective in the photo is because the set is standing on it's head.

miniman82
01-06-2012, 06:00 PM
Gonna guess CTC-11, Ed's site doesn't have a 10 matching that description.

Eric H
01-06-2012, 06:15 PM
I don't know for sure but all the non-remote 10's seem to have the same knob layout?
Could still be an 11 of course.

http://novia.net/~ereitan/Gallery/CTC10_Gallery.html

Electronic M
01-06-2012, 07:40 PM
One RARELY even sees color Silvertones close to that age, you ought to restore it or pass it along to some one who will.

Eric H
01-06-2012, 11:35 PM
One RARELY even sees color Silvertones close to that age, you ought to restore it or pass it along to some one who will.

I'd really like to restore it, going to need a lot of help with this one, like what does the channel selector knob look like?
It has the number dial behind the plate so I'm good there, no selector or fine tuning knobs though, all the other knobs are here.
The trim plate is bent outward, haven't looked at it closely but it can probably be fixed and glued back down.

No back, well something can be constructed for that, very slim chance of finding one because as mentioned, Silvertones are few and far between.

If I can get it out of the van I'll hook the Variac to it and see what I get.

Charlie
01-07-2012, 12:30 PM
Here's a Silvertone that was on ebay years ago... same looking 11-layout. The date of this file is from 2003.

The photo isn't that great, so I don't know that you'll be able to make the channel selector out.

I wonder if one of our members won this auction.

Eric H
01-07-2012, 12:36 PM
Thank you Charlie, it's pretty fuzzy but I can see it has a pointer shape to it.

If anyone here has a Silvertone of that era I'd really appreciate a high resolution picture of the knobs!

timmy
01-07-2012, 03:03 PM
i have this silvertone here in the pic but i doubt its what your looking for. its 1963. what year is your from.

Eric H
01-07-2012, 07:07 PM
i have this silvertone here in the pic but i doubt its what your looking for. its 1963. what year is your from.

Not sure, 60-62 I think.

Eric H
01-07-2012, 07:35 PM
Well this set is in better shape than the Magnavox, it at least has some life signs.
I took the Variac out to the Van and powered it up, started getting sound at 80 volts so I ran it up to 115 and the HV crackled to life along with a nice bright line (turned the brightness down quickly).
It was only drawing 1.7 amps @ 115 volts with no hum.

I'll have to bring it inside, probably piece by piece since it's too heavy to handle alone, that'll give me a chance to clean it up too.

The dial cover looks like it can be fixed reasonably well, one of the small knobs appears to be incorrect also, probably the one without the brass insert.

ctc17
01-07-2012, 07:57 PM
I have one of those in the garage with a weak crt and trashed cabinet. (I think its the same)
Heres the video of it, starts at 3:30 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEy5QAPaueI
The chassis is like new and works perfect. Let me know if it would work for you.

Eric H
01-07-2012, 08:23 PM
I have one of those in the garage with a weak crt and trashed cabinet. (I think its the same)
Heres the video of it, starts at 3:30 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEy5QAPaueI
The chassis is like new and works perfect. Let me know if it would work for you.

Yes! It's a slightly different set but the knobs look correct, I wouldn't mind getting the whole thing except the chassis if you are willing to part with it.
I have a very clean chassis but the knobs, Grille Cloth and the Silvertone rainbow logo are all pretty tired looking.

Did it have a back by chance?

I'll P.M. you soon.

ctc17
01-07-2012, 08:59 PM
Im almost positive the back is on it. If you can use it to make a good set, come get it. Let me see if I have the sams for it. It is an 11

Im going to email you the sams so you can get that vert issue fixed

mstaton
01-07-2012, 09:16 PM
Do ctc-11's have a service switch? That could be the issue. Either dirty or switched to service. I don't have an 11 to know if it does but I know 9's do not.

ctc17
01-07-2012, 09:25 PM
Yes it has a service switch. It also has the 1500 ohm resistor between b+ and the vertical out primary that likes to go open.

It has a thermistor in the b+ that limits the current inrush. If that went open and was bypassed, the current rush though the 1500 ohm vert resistor to the 80uf cap will eventually blow it open.

Eric H
01-07-2012, 09:27 PM
I'll try to get it in the house tomorrow and check it out.


Yes it has a service switch. It also has the 1500 ohm resistor between b+ and the vertical out primary that likes to go open.

It has a thermistor in the b+ that limits the current inrush. If that went open and was bypassed, the current rush though the 1500 ohm vert resistor to the 80uf cap will eventually blow it open.

mstaton
01-07-2012, 10:27 PM
CTC17, how's that re-waxed flyback doing? I may try it with one from my 16

ctc17
01-08-2012, 03:23 AM
CTC17, how's that re-waxed flyback doing? I may try it with one from my 16

Its still working fine. I put that set aside while I'm getting a 16 dialed in. Caps and alignment mostly.

Eric H
01-08-2012, 01:56 PM
Took it apart and brought it in the house.
I took this opportunity to clean off the dirt from the CRT and the metal shield, hosed it off in the front yard with a little dish soap to loosen the crud.The Tube is a 21FBP22, a 21FJP22 without a bonded safety glass. The screen is a darker greenish color than the CYP22 so I'm assuming it uses the later Phosphors?
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/crt.jpg

The chassis is very clean.
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/chassis.jpg

The tuner uses a NuVistor tube.
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/tuner.jpg

Flyback looks good and I know it works.
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/flyback.jpg

The cabinet needs some work.
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/cabinettop.jpg
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/fullcabinet.jpg

Hopefully this can be replaced with the parts from the set I'm getting from Dan.
http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/controls.jpg

DavGoodlin
01-10-2012, 10:48 AM
Eric,

How lucky...your HV works. I had one of those EXACT sets long ago. It is a CTC11 clone totally. It belonged to a neighbor-relative and when it finally quit in 1979, I was happy to take it!

The 6DQ5 red-plated. The horiz. drive to the grid was OK, so I assumed it was the flyback. But when I inserted a drive signal from the B&K analyst at the plate cap, it generated about 16 kV at the 2nd anode. It would not work any other way. I tried replacing everything but the Fly and gave up in extreme anguish. I will check my bins if I have the channel and other knobs.

miniman82
01-10-2012, 11:44 AM
Tube is a 21FBP22, a 21FJP22 without a bonded safety glass. The screen is a darker greenish color than the CYP22 so I'm assuming it uses the later Phosphors?


Yep, it's a sulphide tube.

Eric H
01-11-2012, 11:56 PM
I've been working on the cabinet trying to get it looking nice.
Underneath all that cracked peeling Lacquer is some really nice wood.

The legs and frame seem to be made of a hardwood, possibly Oak, the top and sides are Walnut or Mahogany I think.


It's not solid wood, the sides are just paneling and the top is only a little thicker but it's real Veneer and it looks super after stripping it.

I took it all apart trying to figure out how to get the grille cloth off, only to find out it's just stapled in place. :stupid:

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/insidesilvercabinet1.jpg

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/insidesilvercabinet.jpg

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/Silvergrille.jpg

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/silvertonelegs.jpg

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/cabinettop2.jpg

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/cabinetside.jpg

6GH8cowboy
01-12-2012, 07:26 AM
...

ChrisW6ATV
01-12-2012, 08:56 PM
Very nice progress!

ctc17
01-12-2012, 09:00 PM
wow amazing work! you still comming to get the parts set this Sat?

marty59
01-12-2012, 10:29 PM
What did you use to remove that old finish? Looks like it cleaned up really nice!

Eric H
01-12-2012, 10:50 PM
wow amazing work! you still comming to get the parts set this Sat?

Hi Dan, I'm torn now, I want to get the parts but there's also an Auction up here on Saturday with a Mini Lathe I was interested in.

Would next weekend work, or Monday, I'm off on Monday and also Tomorrow.

Eric H
01-12-2012, 11:02 PM
What did you use to remove that old finish? Looks like it cleaned up really nice!

Just Citristrip took it right off, won't need a lot of sanding.
I was experimenting with the legs today, tried a couple different Toners.

The Medium Brown is nice but probably too light, the Van Dyke Brown was a little too dark and hard to apply without getting it really dark.

I think maybe I need a Dark Walnut.

I bought eight cans of Mohawk Toners at the Thrift a couple weekends ago, most are full.

I got three cans of Fruitwood Brown, I have no idea what that looks like but if it's appropriate I'll use it since it only cost me $2 a can.
I only really need to tone the hardwood trim, it really light colored and too hard to take stain, the top and sides are darker and I can probably stain them to the right color.

this set is just plain Brown, not Reddish Brown like many of the 1940's sets

I have some Lacquer Tints I bought for a Philco, I could do a Heywood Wakefield style Yellow finish. :D


Maybe you guys can help me pick a Grille Cloth, the original has a diamond pattern and some gold thread, I was thinking Grille Cloth.com's pattern number 78 might look nice with a Walnut cabinet.

http://www.grillecloth.com/grillcloth/gallery.php

Here's the original, the back side doesn't look all that much darker than this.

http://vintagetvsets.com/images/silvertonecolor/silvertonegrillecloth.jpg

ctc17
01-13-2012, 12:03 AM
Hi Dan, I'm torn now, I want to get the parts but there's also an Auction up here on Saturday with a Mini Lathe I was interested in.

Would next weekend work, or Monday, I'm off on Monday and also Tomorrow.


Go to the auction, it can sit here. I'm gone monday. Weekday traffic is cruel
Anyway

kvflyer
01-13-2012, 07:57 AM
Go to the auction, it can sit here. I'm gone monday. Weekday traffic is cruel
Anyway

Sorry to go OT, but when I read, "Weekday traffic is cruel Anyway", I looked at your location.

Hmmmm California? Yup. I do understand.

"You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled broadcast..."

Eric H
01-24-2012, 11:07 PM
I'll be going to Dans to get the parts set next Sunday, I have to make another stop in Moorepark to pick up a Bakelite Emerson I won on eBay so it's going to be a lonng day, 244 miles round trip according to Google.

Meanwhile I haven't done anything to the super clean chassis except order some Electrolytics and some Orange Dips.

The cabinet OTOH is nearly done, I stripped it, stained it and tried several times to use some of the oddball Toner I bought to refinish it, each time I wound up removing it all because it looked funky.

Tip, when you find lots of Mohawk Toner at the thrift store it's probably there for a reason, like it's ugly!

Finally I just stained the Veneer sides with Dark Walnut Minwax and Toning the Oak trim with the small amount of Walnut Brown Toner I had left from a previous project.
It's not perfect, certainly not original but it looks nice, more like a 70's Console than an early 60's.

I didn't fix the big scratches on the top, it would have required a whole new piece of Veneer, I did Steam them up somewhat and lighten them but there are numerous pock marks all over the top anyway so it's somewhat futile. It gives it that "Antiqued look" Like it was beat with an Axe or something.
That's what A doily is for I guess.

Eric H
01-25-2012, 10:21 PM
Here's a couple pics of the cabinet, I want to get some 0000 Steel Wool and dull it down a little but it looks OK.
The legs aren't on it yet, I still need to do those, they are four different colors right now, I was using them to test the Toner.

I put the CRT in upside down first try, easily fixed but annoying.

Put the chassis in and fired it up, I was disappointed to find that it hadn't
fixed itself. :D
As soon as I get my Admiral done I'll toss this up on the bench and recap it.
It'll be nice to do a PC board set for a change.

DaveWM
01-26-2012, 08:53 AM
looks nice, good work on the cabinet.:thmbsp:

Ralph S
01-26-2012, 08:31 PM
Eric have you tried one of those new-fangled sanders from 3M called a Sandblaster? In spite of its name you can get a correct pad for it which is the equivalent of 950 gauge steelwool. Since the Sandblaster presents a flat surface to the cabinet you're working on, it produces a much flatter finished result than steelwool in the hand. I found it either at the Do-it Center or at OSH. It works well. I used it for my Admiral 30B1 with really nice results. NOt very expensive!

Eric H
01-29-2012, 07:34 PM
I had a really busy and long day today!

First I went to Dan's (a.k.a. CTC17) house to pick up the Silvertone parts set, it's providing a back, a full set of knobs in great condition and a face plate that is much superior to the one I have, the tube surround has a slightly better "Color" logo so I might use that too, plus any other parts I might need for the chassis, it has a fully working chassis so if I ever need a flyback I'm covered.
I had hoped to use the grille cloth but it has a single 4" speaker and my set has a 6x9 so it's wider.

I'm undecided if I should use the Gray Channel plate or the original Brass one?
The gray one is in very good condition but is kind of plain, the brass one was all bent up and worn, I straightened it out and brushed it with some sandpaper where I could to eliminate the scratches but I can't do the whole thing without removing those really cool Atomic star-bursts that are silk screened on.

I also picked up a couple of B&W sets, one from eBay and the other from CL, I'll post about those in the Early B&W Forum.

Eric H
02-01-2012, 10:03 PM
Did a little more on the Silvertone today.
First I made a new Grillecloth.
I took some leftover fabric from another project and put it on the speaker board, then, since it was way too light I took some Mohawk Van Dyke Brown Toner and sprayed it lightly, several coats until it looked about right.

Installed it in the cabinet and it's an excellent match! Not the same as original but an effective replacement I think.
I also put the speakers back in the cabinet, all except the right tweeter, the wires are supposed to go in front of the CRT mount (before the CRT is installed) so I'll have to unsolder them to do that.

The back I got from Dan is nearly a perfect fit, from the chassis side over it's the same but it's about an inch shorter, so on the right side (viewed from the rear) it ends right at the inside edge of the cabinet. I can leave it alone or I could glue a couple small blocks inside the cabinet so I can attach it.

I also salvaged the Tube Chart from Dan's set, good thing because mine is missing.
I plan to scan it, clean it up a little (though it's in pretty good shape) and reprint it.
If anyone else needs one let me know, should work for an RCA 11 too.

For a set that looked really bad it's come a long way. :thmbsp:
Note: the legs need to be put back on as soon as I refinish them.

Eric H
02-01-2012, 10:11 PM
Someone here asked if I would have an extra brass Escutcheon around the Fine tuning knob, yes I do but I can't find your Message or E-Mail, please contact me again.