Found this on craigslist on my birthday !!!!:D
Now sitting in my home !! OMG is it heavy :sigh:
Does anyone know where to get prints for it ?? or can I just use a CTC-16 print for the TV chassis and hope for the best for the tuner and amp resto
I think it is a 1964.:scratch2:

The Sams index says the CTC-16 TV is covered in Set 736, Folder 4 (1965). It says the remote is covered in 736-4-A and the power amp chassis in 736-4-B.

You can buy the Sams manual direct from the company, http://www.samswebsite.com/ . If you live near a large library, ask them if they have Sams (mine does), in which case they'll make you a free copy.

Phil Nelson

its just a CTC-16 comp separate from the tuner amp, they use a switch on the TV on off to switch the speakers from the CTC-16 audio out to the Stereo amp audio out and cut the power to the stereo when the TV is on.

nice combo!ctc16 chassis.cataract doesnt look like too much work.this is a great roundie and as i have said,the ctc 15 and 16s are the best electronically in my opinion.they produce a picture as good as most 70s era sets and they look great on the round screen.bruce in new york is the combo king.if you need anything,i have an excellent crt,working chassis,etc

kickass birthday find man! looks like its really clean too! fire her up!

I would recommend pulling the HOT and doing a slow startup with a variac, a metered one is best (amps and volts), start out at about 10vac and see what the current is (should be nil), ramp up slowly over time, checking the filter can for heat, monitor the B+ (there is a tp on the chroma board, should be marked with 390 or 410v iirc). I stop when I can get it to about 400v which is around 80vac. If all that goes well then pop in the HOT with a cathode break to check the current. Do a full power start, and keep an eye on the HOT current, if it goes over 220, just pull the plug. Start trouble shooting.

the Vert circuit is kinda fussy, the .0082 cap off the plate of the 6GF7 takes a real beating, so if you have issues with the vert check that one and the 50uf cap electro on the same board.

Don't forget to reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. They exist in only one of two states: cracked or gonna crack soon. :D That kills the heaters on the 6GU7s, launching the CRT beam current into avalanche. :eek:

yeah, touching the wrong thing in THAT thing will probubly be the last thing you ever do.....

yeah, touching the wrong thing in THAT thing will probubly be the last thing you ever do.....
Naw, it'll just get your attention right quick. Benn there, dunn that. :o:dammit:

I have all of it on a PDF. Give me a PM.
Phil

Looks like the previous owner was a smoker.

I like it! :-) CTC-16's are pretty reliable once you get the bugs out!

It's listed in the 1964 catalogue

"The Brindis" Mark 10 Series HF-865
Delicately decorated Italian Procincial lowboy in selected hardwood solids with veneers of Antiqued Florentine Walnut or Antiqued Brushed White finish, 120 watts peak power (60 watts EIA), frequency response 45 to 20,000 cps. Two 12" Disphonic dui-cone speakers plus six 3 1/2" tweeters. Deluxe 9-tube FM/AM Radio with FM Stereo. Lighted phono compartment, FM Stereo indicator, tuning controls. Plug-in jack for stereo headphones (headphones optional extra). H-30 7/8" ; W-62 1/8" ; D-26 3/8".

hey good luck with your find, i have 2 of these things now, 1 from late64 the other one from late 65, love those combos. if i can be of any help with spare parts dont hesitate to ask.

i would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions !!
I did power it up slowly with the HOT un plugged seemed ok.
Brought it up slowly with HOT back in the set as I got a hint of HV tick the degauss thermistors got hot and smoked.
I pulled the chassis for closer inspection.
The tuner and amp work but left channel is weak. (not worried about that now)

no reason to powr up slowing with the HOT in place. you want to do a full power up to make sure the osc starts and the HOT does not overheat.

what was the HOT cathode current before you ended the test?

It was about 150 mA I heard HV crackel then smoke from thermistor area.

Replaced thermistor and lytics. hot cathode current 214mA hv 24 kv,focus voltage 5 kv boost voltage 1100 v. No color yet . I shook the camera picture is much sharper in person.

how does the crt checkout?

fine tuning adj, check color osc tube/burst amp. Make sure those wires on the top of the chroma board are not corroded. could be the Xtal if the osc is runing way off you will not even see the color bars of a out of sync osc.

try and get that cathode current lower if possible. Flybacks are getting harder to come by. My avitar is a 16XL. If everything is working correctly, You should get a nice sharp color pic when done. :-)

I noticed those 2 brown wires had mean green on the ends. I replaced them when I did the lytcs. The leader will show bars (no color though) and a bright white square. Will keep checking out.

if the bars are not moving you can try adj A16 a little bit but keep track to get it back to where you started in case it does not work. you 1/2 turn either way should be enough. If that does not do it, and you have color bars, I would guess the Xtal is bad. I have had several like that. Of course if you have a scope you could just start looking for the proper wave forms on the chroma board.

Replaced the Xtal. I have color. In the wrong places LOL !!
Merry Christmas to all

Back on the RCA. Went through the color alignment on the sams. It didn't do much. Color bars are all wrong.

Back on the RCA. Went through the color alignment on the sams. It didn't do much. Color bars are all wrong.
It kinda looks like one of the demods isn't working.
If you turn the tint control stop to stop, is there a signifigant shift in the color bars?

Turning the tint I can get the red bar (in my last 2 posts red bar should be yellow) to turn blue.

checked v21 pin 5 253v,pin 6 139v, pin 2 104 ohms to ground
v23 is similar in voltage pin 2 is 157 ohms to ground.

Need a break. Knees dont want to work anymore :no:

Is green missing?
Check your 6GU7s and the little red drop caps that drive them. Also remove the chassis and rock the power resistors around the 6GU7s watching for the pins to move on the bottom of the board.
I can almost guarantee there are cracked or weak solders in that area.
I use the same generator, it sounds like your on the right track

I will check the board. Thanks !! (Your youtube channel is great !! )

Finally found some time to get back to this. It has been to long.
Well I was thinking about what ctc17 asked me about there being no green.
I tested the 21fj when I first got the set and only the blue gun looked weak it would get better when the filaments were on for about an hour and then re-checking. This was with an old beltron tester. I got a sencore 7000 and re-checked the tube about the same no g1 or hk shorts,cutoff passed,and emission hi tracking passed.:dunno:
Next I found a rca test jig 10j106 and tried the chassis on the bench.
I had to make the crt plug adapter from tube base pins and a brightner socket
but it works. I have color on the test jig just turned a16 1 turn in and it locked. Great I have color-----but when I hook back up to the 21fjp22 IT is still the same :thumbsdn: as before color is all wrong.
I found pin 6 of the crt socket loose and tightened it (no good)
The crt passed the tests on 2 different testers and the chassis makes color on a test jig but they wont work together.:tears:

By the way the screen is burnt in the center (dot) and my camera is crap there is green

Just a SWAG here, but did you degauss the 21" and check the purity rings?

I did degauss the crt many times. Did not touch any neck parts yet.

purity is a must do. Dequass ground the G1s thru 100k reistors (you need 2 one for each G1). Cut off the G and B and see if you get a uniform red raster. If not you will need to do the purity setup. Be careful when sliding the yoke around with the power on. the windings can bite....

Generally if purity is a issue the colors of reg programming will be off depending on the location of the screen (so if you had a green field, some of it will be green with other areas not so much.


If you suspect Green then use the resistors to cut off the R and B guns. You can also just turn down the screen drives, but I like the resistors as I dont like constantly adj the G2 drives.

oh and start out with the G and B G1 drive pots at max, refer to the gray scale setup for the exact procedure.

be aware that adj the convergence and purity interact, so you want the purity set right 1st before spending a lot of time on convergence. You will have to adj things a few times to get the best performance.

Thanks Dave I will see if I can get a good raster. I am going slowly on this set . i dont want to mess it up.

The pics are red,green,and blue. (LOL)
Pic 1 g1 of green and blue grounded
pic 2 g1 of red and blue grounded
pic 3 g1 of red and green grounded
White raster fed with my leader gen.
Programming from cable box has similar results
:thumbsdn:
(Do I need a 1000 amp 3 phase degaussing coil? lol)

The blobs of incorrect color look like classic bad purity to me. The Sams manual should have a section on purity adjustment. Work through that as Dave suggested.

Phil Nelson

Well here is a pic of it after a quick purity setup and degaussing.:banana:
It gets better the longer it runs. I have been using it for about 2 hours and it seems ok at 189mA cathode current. Until it goes through a cold start and the auto gedauss is used. It kills the purity again. Unplug degauss coils and it will be fine over several startups. So I am thinking the thermistors,varistors are of the incorrect value ? Causing current flow to be to abrupt (on/off)magnatizing the crt ? The coil measures 9.6 ohms

that is odd, try putting an AC meter across the thermistor, the do a cold start, you should see AC voltage that slowly diminishes as the resistance drops while the thermistor heats up.

The vdr is shorted or the thermistor is bad. The thermistor should be about 120ohms cold and should drop way down when hot. You cant really test the vdr, they should really be changed as a pair.

Well here is a pic of it after a quick purity setup and degaussing.
I like that NTSC color bars signal you have, with the unusual mid-screen split just like in the picture of the CT-100 assembly line. Can you tell me what device is generating it?

The gen is a Leader LCG-396.

Nice Picture Rob. I miss all the 16's I worked on for friends who used them as daily drivers. First year for a UHF tuner as standard equipment. Life was good in '65

One thing I did not see mentioned is that a HV rectifier tube 3A3 should be replaced in kind, the 3A3B, C were a bit shorter and did not always fully seat into the flyback.

Congratulations, I was secretly hoping your shadow mask wasn't warped.

Looks to me as if the TV is overscanning quite a bit. I have never seen a color bar pattern fill a round screen that much. Also, I did not see any burn marks on the CRT when I looked at your pictures of the set in operation. The ion burn must be very small, almost like a flyspeck. In any event, it isn't noticeable (at least, as I said, I don't notice it) on the pattern from the generator or on the pic of the ID screen from Syfy. It may be that the burn only shows if one looks at the picture in person and not on digital photos. :scratch2:

:banana::banana:

That's the Center of the JIG ??!! Not a BURN !!

It looks like somebody marked the CENTER OF THE JIG for you !!!
:banana::banana::banana::banana:

The test jig has a burn in it. Not the 21fj

I thought there was something wrong with the crt also. I forgot to plug the degauss wires in. Manually degaussed it and after about 10 min. I was able to get some purity. So with the degauss working I kept inducing a magnetic field every time I turned it on. Talk about shooting yourself in the foot 452 times !!!
Way back in this post the thermistor smoked on the initial fire up. So I replaced both the vdr and thermistor. I matched them up by value and part number with Moyers.
Well they are not the correct ones or no good because of age.
What are good part numbers that should work ?

The test jig has a burn in it. Not the 21fj

I just looked at the picture of your test jig and saw the burn -- as you said, it is right in the center of the screen. The TV picture on the set's own CRT is excellent, if overscanned. I guess I should have examined all photos attached to the post thoroughly before assuming that the burn was on the television's CRT, which was my first thought.

In any event, it's fortunate that the burn mark is not on the set's own tube, as I am sure 21FJP22 roundie color CRTs (or any other type of cathode-ray tube, even rectangular, for that matter) are becoming scarce, and are (or could be) very difficult if not impossible to find in this age of flat-screen TVs.

Before I start in the ctc-15 I would like to work some things out on this chassis.
Could someone ohm their degauss coils ?
I haven't done any more adj on the purity or convergence since the crt needs a catarac job and will have to come out.
I wanted to see if I could the chassis right.
I the picture there is a black line between Brian and Stewie that runs top to bottom
half way down you can see it bends. It starts from the top to the bottom.
The whole picture does this slowly.
It does this on the test jig as well.
I swapped HOT and damper tubes and checked my work when I replaced the lytics.

Forgot the pictures

is it very slow, like 11-15 seconds start to finish?

have you replaced all the filter caps or checked them. there are some on the vert xformer primary that are decouplers as well.

did you check all tubes for HK shorts

Did you reflow all ground stakes, on the PCB's

Generally speaking a slow moving vert wave (vert line has horz displacement) look for hum and vert osc rate beat freqency issues. I had a maggie like that turned out it had a poor ground connection on the sweep board that allowing heater ac interact with the sweep. The prevailing opinion was a beat freq of the 60hrz vs the 59.999 whatever of the vert osc somehow modulating the horz (the horz displacement). Anyway check out the above.

Yes it is slow moving.
I will check some tubes again tonight first.

Thank for the info Dave:thmbsp:

oh the way I found the offending part was to feed each section of the maggie with pure 6v DC to the heaters. I used a big ole gel cell battery, started by feeding the entire sets filaments, bingo wave gone, this confirmed it was a filament AC source issue. Next I one by one reattached each filament group until I got to the deflection board where it returned. Sounds drastic but I was a real newb and was totally frustrated by it so was determined to try anything. I almost was going to build a DC power supple just for the filaments but that would be a real cop out. Anyway once I narrowed down to that one pcb I decided to solder on a ground buss using some solder wick. the orig ground was nothing more than a pressure contact of the pcb to the metal chassis thru a screw. I prob could have gotten it going by just tightening down the screw (and cleaning up the contract point) but figured the copper braid would be a bit more secure. I had a more recent "hula" on a RCA ctc 16, I think it was just a bad filter cap but dont remember for sure. It was one of those deals where the filter can tested ok and worked for several months then failed.

[QUOTE=robdjf;3038522
I the picture there is a black line between Brian and Stewie that runs top to bottom
half way down you can see it bends. It starts from the top to the bottom.[/QUOTE]

The line in the picture you are referring to is supposed to be there, but the bend isn't. There is probably 60-Hz hum getting into the deflection circuits at some point. I am at a loss to explain just where the hum is getting into the sweep circuits, as you said you replaced the filter caps. Elsewhere in this thread (I think directly above this post), DaveWM mentions other caps that could be defective and causing the problem as well. I would replace every filter capacitor in the set, since in a TV set of this vintage they are probably all either already defective or are getting there, slowly but surely. The CTC16 series is from the mid-'60s, so it is almost a certainty that every filter needs to be replaced; since those caps are now at least 47 (!) years old, a complete recap is in order.

the one I was thinking of is a 80uf that connects to the red lead of the vert out primary it decouples the strong vert rate pulses out of the vert circuit so they dont get into the B+. IIRC its a two section cap kinda in the middle of the chassis (3rd on from the end). Its prob open (if shorted you would have a lot of big time problems, starting with a smoked sand resistor) so just to a quick bridge there and see if it goes away. the other section of that cap looks a decoupler 2uf for the audio screens. If that fixes it you would want to take the existing cap out of the circuit, just in case it decides to short some time in the future. I would replace the 2uf as well (same can, if the 80uf is gone then the 2uf is prob not too far away) do you have any sound bars in the set (turn the set up loud and see if you see any interference patterns that seem to modulate to the sound).

I found something out while working on the chassis. The wave that I have been fighting gets much better with chassis out of the cabinet and sitting on end (power transformer down). This is why it didnt show up much on the test jig (chassis same position). Last night I put it back in after soldering ground stakes on all boards except IF. I fired it up no difference (wtf). Pulled the chassis back out and sat it on end and the wave is almost gone. I tried gently twisting the chassis to see if there was a change no dice. It has to be a poor or cracked connection.