Hi guys,
I just picked up a Admiral 22X12 Television for $40 and I have a couple of questions.
Is there any risk of shock from the CRT? I have read that some if not all CRT's can carry a high voltage charge that could be lethal even when the TV set is unplugged. If this true?
Also does anyone know where I can find a schematic for this set?
Is this one of the easier sets to work on?

I've worked on several old radios before and happened across this one and thought I could make this a good project to get running again. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill

A zap from an unpowered tube won't kill you, but it'll cause a few curse words. lol

Bob should be along shortly, he has a video on this exact set.

Hi guys,
I just picked up a Admiral 22X12 Television for $40 l


Bill,

If you want to pay a bunch for a schematic, go to ePray.

For a free schematic, go to:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_schematic_diagrams.html

and slide down to Admiral cross reference chart and you will see that the 22X12 uses the 20Z1 Chassis, on which they have both the Sams and Ryder versions available for free download.

Don't worry about the cabinet pictures not matching your set.

As a matter of fact, if you haven't been there, there is more old TV history on http://www.earlytelevision.org than you can read in a year!

The set that I graduated from radio servicing to TV servicing was a similar Admiral model that I bought from a junk store for $10. However that was in about 1955, and if a shock from the HV would kill you, I would not be writing this. However, always keep one hand in your pocket while poking about inside these babies and make sure that you are not grounded.

James

A zap from an unpowered tube won't kill you, but it'll cause a few curse words. lol

Bob should be along shortly, he has a video on this exact set.

Here's a link to that video :) http://youtu.be/u1r8Us8FsYQ

I haven't restored that specific chassis yet, but I have just done a couple very similar 20X1s. Yes, they're fairly easy to work on as vintage TVs go.

Admiral 20X11: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=252263

Admiral 20X12: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=252047

Check my YouTube channel for the videos.

Wow, that YouTube video is awesome. Thanks so much. Your YouTube channel is the best ever. I can't seem to pull myself away from watching your videos. :)
I have to go fix someones computer for them this afternoon, but tonight I plan on starting to clean up the set. I'm sure I will have many more questions for you guys, I really appreciate the help.
The story of how I acquired this set is that I work for a big retailer that you can drop off your old electronics for recycling. Someone dropped this set off and I had to have it. I made a "donation" to one of the our party funds..... I was so lucky that this set just fit in the trunk of my Acura coupe. It is really heavy though, my gf had to help me get it into my apartment. I can't believe someone would recycle this set. Well I will report back with my progress tonight. :D

Good luck! I found mine locally on craigslist. The owner was seriously planning on making it into a fish tank if he didn't find a buyer.

Bob, I just spent several hours looking at videos on your website and really enjoyed how thorough they are. Thanks!

Well I pulled off the back today and it looks very dirty. Got quite a bit of rust on the chassis and the aquadag (black coating) is flaking off the CRT. It does have the original admiral CRT and a few of the tubes have been replaced. I got a few pics of the set and the insides. On a side-note there seems to be an old newspaper in pieces in there. Should be interesting to see when its from. I wonder what I will find underneath. I'm going to remove that chassis next and start cleaning everything. Also whats the best way to clean up all the cobwebs and chassis for now? Just compressed air and a vacuum?

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill,

Nice TV.

I always prefer doing the initial cleanup using a small paintbrush and the vacuum method. I personally don't care for all that dust flying around in the air I’m breathing, unless of course I'm outside and upwind. You also need to be very careful using high-pressure air around small coils and open wound transformers. You can literally tear things apart if you’re not careful.

Also that coating that is mostly flaked off the crt, is that something to worry about? will that hinder the operation of the crt? This set might have been stored in a damp environment due to the rust and the flaking of the aquadag.

That dag coating forms one side of a HV capacitor on some sets. You can buy that dag coating in a spray can, but I've never used it. Maybe someone can provide a link to a source. I seem to recall it being related to aircraft usage today.

This set has a 500pF HV doorknob cap right on the HV rectifier tube base to provide some filtering.
I recall seeing a service note that if you have a CRT with no coating a 2nd 500pf cap can be added in parallel.

As for the coating, I've used Aerodag in the past from tedpella.
However, even after multiple heavy coats it has a much higher resistance (more than 10X) than the original coating.
Not sure how much difference that makes.

I recently picked up a can of SlipPlate which I've heard works great, but haven't tried it yet.
You can get it here and many other places: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0960950&ucst=t

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you guys. I'm only 22 so I'm busy juggling work and school along with a girlfriend. I did get a chance to take out the chassis tonight. I took a look underneath and it looks to be mostly original. There are a few replacement caps under there, but honestly everything looks to be in decent shape. A few of the caps seem to be either leaky or bulging which doesn't surprise me. I will include some pictures.

Also I can only get the Sam's manual from that site. The Riders link for my chassis just points to that Sam's manual. Does someone have a copy that they downloaded a while back that they wouldn't mind sending me?

On a side note: Bob, I watched your video on this set and mine in fact has that screen on the bottom of the chassis. It isn't attached to the cabinet, but is attached to the bottom of the chassis. If you have any questions, feel free to email me, I am willing to take more pictures if you want me to. You seem very very knowledgeable on these sets and I have spent the last week or so watching all your YouTube videos. Your work is amazing.

Two more pictures: One of the mess left inside of the cabinet and one of the top of the chassis out of the cabinet. Well thats about it for now. I will hopefully have time to clean out the cabinet tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bill

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you guys. I'm only 22 so I'm busy juggling work and school along with a girlfriend. I did get a chance to take out the chassis tonight. I took a look underneath and it looks to be mostly original. There are a few replacement caps under there, but honestly everything looks to be in decent shape. A few of the caps seem to be either leaky or bulging which doesn't surprise me. I will include some pictures.

Also I can only get the Sam's manual from that site. The Riders link for my chassis just points to that Sam's manual. Does someone have a copy that they downloaded a while back that they wouldn't mind sending me?

On a side note: Bob, I watched your video on this set and mine in fact has that screen on the bottom of the chassis. It isn't attached to the cabinet, but is attached to the bottom of the chassis. If you have any questions, feel free to email me, I am willing to take more pictures if you want me to. You seem very very knowledgeable on these sets and I have spent the last week or so watching all your YouTube videos. Your work is amazing.

If you haven't already seen them, you might also enjoy my videos on the 20X11 and 20X12 restorations which use the very similar 20X1 chassis.

Thanks for the pictures. This is the first good picture I've ever seen of that metal cover :) Now I just need to get someone to fabricate a few :scratch2:

I see what you mean about that Riders link. The 20Z1 is actually covered in vol. 5 I believe. I do have a copy but have not scanned it yet.

The Riders for the 20X1 / 20Y1 is pretty darn close so you could start with that.

Nice score. I look forward to progress on it.

Thanks Bob, I will take a look at those riders. Also if you need more pictures of that screen or even if you want to borrow it for a while to get some made, let me know. I'd be more than willing to ship it down to you for awhile.

I'm sorry that I haven't given any progress updates in awhile. Holidays are a very busy time for me and I haven't had much of a chance to work on this set. I got the cabinet out of my upper hallway along with the chassis and moved it upstairs. I'm a little confused with the Sam's schematic and I need some help. I'm trying to work out what capacitors I need to order. JustRadios seems to be very convenient and I am also trying to compare prices on Mouser. The problem with Mouser is that there are too many capacitors to choose from. Could someone point me in the right direction here and let me know what I should order? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Bill

When I'm search for electrolytics. I go to Mouser's capacitor page and apply some filters.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt/


For example, check stocked, select 82 uF, 450 Volts and Radial style.

You'll get this page of only four choices - all pretty good. http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZscv7?P=1z0wqrrZ1z0vl82Z1z0z7l5



Here's what I ordered from Mouser for the similar 20X1 Admiral chassis. Note that I like to restuff the electrolytic cans so get long skinny radial caps (both leads coming out one end).
If you're going to install the new electrolytics under the chassis, you might find it easier to use axials (one lead out of each end).

I also round up the capacitance to the closest value and try to go a little higher in the voltage rating.

C1 - 80mfd @ 450v, 40 mfd @ 450v, 20 mfd @ 450v

Mouser #: 647-UPZ2W820MNY9 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 450V 82uF 730mArms +/-20% at 120Hz
Mouser #: 647-UPZ2W470MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 450volts 47uF 12.5X40 20%
Mouser #: 647-UVY2W220MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 450volts 22uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS

C2 - 20 mfd @ 450v, 60 mfd @250v, 100 mfd @ 25v

Mouser #: 647-UVY2W220MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 450volts 22uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS
Mouser #: 647-UPZ2G680MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 400volts 68uF 12.5X40 20%
Mouser #: 647-UPJ1H101MPD6 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 100uF 10x15 20%

C3 - 40mfd @ 250v, 40mfd @ 250v

Mouser #: 647-UPW2V470MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 350volts 47uF 18x35.5 20%


As for the paper caps, I live to use polyester film either Cornel Dubilier (axial) or Cornel Dubilier / Nichicon / Panasonic (radial and cheaper). I just go with 630 volts for all. Here are some examples.



0.047 @ 630v axial http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/Polyester-Film-Capacitors/_/N-5g7w?P=1z0wpt1Z1z0sq4zZ1z0z819
0.047 @ 630v radial http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/Polyester-Film-Capacitors/_/N-5g7w?P=1z0wpt1Z1z0sq4zZ1z0z7l5


Hope that helps.

Hi Bill
I have an Admiral that is a bit older than your set but the condition of the chassis is about the same or worst. It had a lot of rust. I pulled it a part and used a wire wheel on it then gave it a coat of gray hammertone paint.
Looks great! Before: http://www.flickr.com/photos/42774321@N08/3938018151/in/photostream/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/42774321@N08/3938018239/in/photostream/
GL
Terry

Hey Terry,
nice job on that chassis. When I got a real ugly one, I put it in a cabinet glass beader, does a nice job. Here's a philco chassis that was pretty bad, blasted and then painted.
http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.php?p=3002928&postcount=4

Two more pictures: One of the mess left inside of the cabinet and one of the top of the chassis out of the cabinet. Well thats about it for now. I will hopefully have time to clean out the cabinet tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bill

Your set has been home to a critter, probably a Mouse or a family of Mice.
I would definitely not use compressed air to blow it out, no telling what bacteria lurks in there.

I'm working on a similarly infested set now, I washed it with Bleach first and then soapy water, several times.

Generally speaking mild soap and water will not harm the chassis provided it's allowed to dry thoroughly before attempting to power it up and you avoid getting paper parts such as labels and Capacitor Covers wet.
(Filter Cap covers are especially bad, they instantly disintegrate if they get wet!)

I spray a heavy coat of Clear paint or Lacquer on the paper labels to give them some water resistance.

Care has to be taken around the power transformer so it doesn't get water inside because it's very difficult to get out.

thanks for the capacitor advice. I will make a list and order them very soon. Also thanks for the additional advice guys. I will scrub the chassis down once I get it on the bench. It is really cold outside now and I live in an apartment so I don't really have a hose.

Well its been months since I gave you guys an update. I have switched jobs and have been too busy with other projects and things to work on this set. I have put it back together and will wait until it gets warmer out so I can clean the chassis correctly. Stay tuned folks.