Hello

I just recently finished this project and thought I would show it off.

Steve P

Before:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/163822_192439584100815_186074738070633_787692_3868 350_n.jpg

After:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/2011-06-22_18-18-14_258.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7662.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7651.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/2011-06-22_18-08-32_360.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/2011-06-22_18-09-31_19.jpg

Video:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/th_2011-06-22_18-05-26_558.jpg (http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/?action=view&current=2011-06-22_18-05-26_558.mp4)

Where were you when I had one of these? Beautiful work. I would like to see more about the cabinet restoration.

Hard to believe it's the same set, Good work!

The cabinet was very ruff and needed a total stripdown. The veneer was in very good shape once the finish was stripped off.

Here is the general condition when I got it home.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7544.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7547.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7568.jpg

Here is a test stain on the same area as the last picture.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7571.jpg

Some of the panels with new stain.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7581.jpg

Stained

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7587-1.jpg

I used semi-gloss polyurethane for the final finish.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7595.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7600.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7597.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7605.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7628.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7643.jpg

That is a very nice set, I've been following your restoration on ARF.

I have a Philco 48-2500 I need to get done, I've had the chassis done for months, need to get busy on the cabinet, it's an odd yellow blond finish and I'm dreading trying to get it right.

I, too, have followed Steve's progress on ARF. You did a beautiful job both on the cabinet and the set itself. It plays really well now too. Nice work!!!

Pictures of the optics (yes that top picture is before the lens was cleaned).

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7550.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7554.jpg

And a shot of the 45 degree right angle flat mirror that throws the image to the Fresnel viewing lens (Note how clouded with oxidization it is, down right deplorable!) I'm surprised at how well the set is working with the mirror looking like this.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7803.jpg


Shot from the top looking down at the picture tube optical drum. 28,000 Volts be down there! :yikes:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7806.jpg

Awsome Job! Hope I can approach your level of excelence when I tackle mine.

Here is a frighting article concerning these sets...

Rœntgen rays, also commonly called X-rays, are produced when high-speed electrons strike metal surfaces. The only possible X-ray sources I know of offhand that an electronics restorer would encounter are old projection televisions and certain vintage colour televisions. Televisions that produced X-rays during operation will be clearly marked with multiple warning labels on the device itself (like the international ionizing-ray symbol), in addition to detailed cautionary notices in the service literature. There is no need for alarm, however, if you find such a television, as the manufacturer should have incorporated all necessary radiation shielding precautions into the design of the set. I don't know what the laws are for other countries, but I know consumer electronic equipment had to meet certain X-ray emissions limits to be sold in the US even as far back as the mid-forties. The danger comes only in the servicing. When servicing projection or colour televisions, always refer to the service literature, as it will delineate any special precautions that should be taken. As a general rule, all metal shields present in televisions are there for a reason and the television should never be operated with any removed!

Big Projection Television

To satiate the curious who might attempt such an idiotic stunt, I came across a posting in an antique television forum by a fellow who (doubting the seriousness of such radiation notices) wanted to determine "just how radiation [his vintage tube-type projection television] makes." From the fellow's descriptions, his television was apparently one of the big projection-CRT models once used in theaters like the one shown to the left. Don't ask me where he came across such a remarkable find—I haven't a clue! These projection televisions use a small but extremely bright CRT in an efficient Schmitt reflective optical system, which use a curved mirror to enlarge and focus the image. The high brightness is obtained by using very high anode voltages, which can be as much as 100 kV for projection-televisions using the 7WP4 picture tube, providing enough brightness for a 15×20 ft picture. Picture tubes like the 7WP4 use a unique ribbed envelope design, like that of HV transmission line insulators, to handle such extremely high voltages.

Geiger Counter

He whipped out his trusty Geiger-Müller counter and removed all the radiation shields from the HV section, then powered the television up. Holding the GM tube (Yes, in his hand!) one meter from the region that had been shielded, he said he measured three Rœntgens per hour with the television up and running! With the shields in place, radiation was not measurably above background levels. Duh, those shields are not there just for looks! I sent a copy of the posting to my father, an EE at Oconee Nuclear Site (which generates 40% of the electricity used by South Carolina and neighboring states). He was really shocked by the article, remarking, "Yow, three rem per hour, was he insane?!" To get an idea of what 3 R/hr means, in the nuclear power industry they have the following radiation classifications:

Anything 5 mR/hr above background levels is considered a "radiation area," and dosimeters must be worn. ("Dosimeters" measure a person's radiation "dose" and will generate an audible alarm if levels are too high.)
0.1 R/hr to 1. R/hr above background is a "controlled radiation zone" to which access is restricted. Protective clothing and gear must be worn at all times.
>1 R/hr to 100 R/hr is an "extreme radiation hazard" (also simply called "locked") of the sort that have in a designated, shielded enclosure with triple-redundant guards, shields, barricades, and massive failsafe locks which no one (except robots) is allowed to enter.
>100 R/hr is "grave," for obvious reasons. Even robots cannot survive radiation levels this high without shielding to protect them.

For comparison, in order to be licensed by the NRC to operate, nuclear power plants cannot emit more than 5 millirœntgens per year (0.00000057 R/hr), one-twentieth of the background levels, and several orders of magnitude less than that produced by bricks, granite, and living things (which contain carbon-13 and potassium-40)! Workers operating inside a nuclear plant may never be exposed to a "total body dose" of more than 5 Rœntgens per year under any circumstance (many plants, adopt even lower figures than that, for instance Oconee Nuclear Site uses 2 R/yr).

Another safety note concerning the big theater B/W projection sets using the 7NP4 or 7WP4 tubes.

Because of the very high accelerating potential and high brightness levels required, these tubes were manufactured with a special phosphor that could withstand intense electron bombardment and high temperatures. Unfortunately, a major constituent of this phosphor is beryllium oxide, BeO.

If one of these tubes is broken, the phosphor dust that will be dispersed into the air is EXTREMELY toxic (and potentially carcinogenic) if inhaled. A single exposure to BeO dust can cause serious, permanent lung damage. Use extreme care with these tubes, because the BeO contained within is in just about the perfect form to cause health problems (a fine powder). BeO phosphors were also used in very early fluorescent lamps, as well.

BeO also shows up in other electronic devices, but in a much less hazardous solid form. It was used as a thermally conductive electrical insulator, for mounting power semiconductors or conduction-cooled power tubes to heatsinks or cold plates. It appears as an innocuous-looking white ceramic, but can be distinguished from alumina or other ceramics by its extremely high heat conductivity, almost as good as some metals. The solid forms pose no serious hazard unless they are crushed or broken into fine, inhalable particles.

Wow...It STILL is VERY, VERY purty, though...

Excellent restoration job, you certainly have made this set look as good as brand new!!! :D Watched the video and am very impressed with the picture quality on these early projection sets, very state of the art for the day!!! :D

Call me crazy but I just acquired a second 8PCS41, I couldn't pass it up for $50. It is complete but the cabinet is a real mess. I didn't picture the HV and Audio amp chassis', I've got them at my shop. The set is 100% complete. I bought it as a "parts machine" for my working unit but now I'm trying to decide whether I want to tackle restoring the cabinet or just throw it away? The electronic chassis' are in very good shape, the mirrors are going into the mail soon for re-silvering. The fly-back looks to be in good shape to. I 'm thrilled to have spare part now. I have to think long and hard if I want to restore this cabinet and set, I really don't have room for this in my house. The wife is going to have a bird if she sees this cabinet in my enclosed trailer. :lmao:

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7835.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7836.jpg

If I restore the cabinet, the top veneer will need o be replaced.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7838.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7837.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7839.jpg

Slight burn-in, very good reading on the tester.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7847.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7840.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7834.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/CIMG7833.jpg

If you get one more projection assembly you may be able to make it into a color set by stuffing all three into the cabinet and adding a color demodulation circuit pirated off of an old color set.

Sorry to go off topic, but I have that same CRT tester and have been wondering if it needs an adapter to test mono CRTs with the 10BP4 base or not.

Tom C.

Sorry to go off topic, but I have that same CRT tester and have been wondering if it needs an adapter to test mono CRTs with the 10BP4 base or not.

Tom C.

I can answer that one, no, it doesn't need an adapter for the early B&W tubes, the cable plugs directly onto the tube.

Here's another fun video comparing the 25 inch picture of the 1948 8PCS41 against the 9-1/2 inch picture of the 1947 730TV1. Both are RCA's.

Video:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/th_trek.jpg (http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg227/pielock373/?action=view&current=trek.mp4)