So she has been working like a champ since i got her near a decade back, then around 2 years ago she developed a problem. When youd press the on button, she would turn on, but would have no picture every once in a while. But usually work just fine. Well i fell asleep with her on and woke up to this. Just a thin line running across the screen. Any idea what this could be?

model RD5088FR02, i think. At least thats what the tag says, as well as manufactured jan of '84.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4709/tvsetsandradios.jpg (http://img822.imageshack.us/i/tvsetsandradios.jpg/)

and yes, i know its on channel 2 now, it does that ever time its turned off, but even with a dvd player hooked up, on no channel will it get any picture now.

Vertical deflection has failed, hope it didn't burn a line in the screen...

Probably a bad vert trasistor, or something wrong with the power supply.

If you decide to fix this set, it's best to quit running it with a collapsed vertical....it can permanently burn the line into the crt phosphor.

I think the computer printed tag may make o and 0 look alike, but ive tried and cant seem to find this model number online, to get a sams or such.

Id really like to get this girl working again as i got her at a second hand shop with the old man just before he passed. Would anyone be willing to help me out on this, trying to pin point just what is wrong?

Im a noviceat best with tv's. Radios..i can read numbers, order the bits and resolder. Tv sets are still "magic" to me.

The reason your set doesn't show anything on any channel is because analog TV was discontinued in the US on June 12, 2009. You will need a converter box, cable or satellite to receive local TV stations; however, a DVD player or VCR will allow you to watch your own tapes or DVDs on your TV.

I wouldn't use that set if all you are getting is a horizontal line across the width of the screen. As has been mentioned, this is caused by vertical sweep failure and will burn a line across that area of the tube, as the vertical sweep is now concentrated on just this part of the screen. Another thing you might check is the service/normal switch on the rear apron of the chassis. If this is set to the "service" position, by accident or otherwise, the vertical sweep will stop and the horizontal line you are describing will appear. This line is ordinarily used to set the convergence of the three electron beams in a color picture tube; the procedure is to adjust the convergence controls (known as "static convergence" adjustments), almost always found around the neck of the tube, until the line is white across most of the screen. However, this is not a substitute for a full convergence realignment job; for that a color bar/dot/crosshatch generator is required. This generator provides crosshatch, dot and color bar test patterns for use in adjusting the dynamic color convergence controls, which are found on a PC board mounted to the TV cabinet. Do not try to adjust color convergence without this generator. You won't harm anything in the set, but it is almost impossible to achieve good convergence without some kind of stationary pattern on the TV screen. In the days before 24-7 telecasting, TV stations broadcast test patterns for a half-hour or so before beginning their regular broadcast schedule and sometimes showed a test pattern for a short time just before sign off; however, today these test patterns are all but extinct, unless you live in an area in which some TV stations still sign off around one or two o'clock in the morning (I don't think any of the major stations in the Seattle-Tacoma area shut down for the night after the last network show goes off the air, usually around 2 a.m. local time). Your best bet is to use a generator if you can find one (they often turn up on eBay).

Your TV's switching to channel 2 if it is unplugged is normal. Most if not all TVs with microprocessor-controlled tuners (meaning nearly all sets made in the last twenty years or so) will reset to this channel if there is a power outage. Should your set's channel indicator show gibberish or become locked on this channel after power is restored, unplug the power cord, wait 20 seconds, then plug it in again. The tuner should operate normally.

Take the back off and look for a chart pasted to either the side or floor of the set. I don't know for sure if they were still using them in '84. It may have a diagram that shows the location of all major components and some part numbers. I don't know how modular that chassis might be (others will surely know.) There are some parts floating around-I have a few Magnavox/NAP boards.

Look for a white sticker, somewhere on the chassis. It will read something like 25C1, 25C2, 25C5, etc. It could also be an E34 chassis (which was a carry-over after NAP bought Sylvania) This will be the number you need for a sams photofact.

Like others have said, the vertical deflection circuit has failed and it would be best to only run the set as briefly as possible in order to troubleshoot the problem. And, turn down the brightness and contrast just to the point where the line is visible. Otherwise, you can quickly burn a line in the CRT.

I think by '84, most sets were using a single IC, instead of multiple transistors, for the vertical output stage. If it uses an IC, that will probably be the problem. Along with a bad IC, you will probably find that the resistor that feeds B+ to the IC to be open and there will likely be bad electrolytic capacitors that could have caused the IC to fail.

Those early-to-mid '80's NAP sets are generally very good TV's and are well worth repairing. They are miles ahead of any TV, made today, with the Magnavox badge.

BTW, that's a nice looking cabinet. I'm not much for '80's console TV's; but, I might make an exception if something like yours came along. By the '80's, most consoles were very plain and if you've seen one, you've seen most all of them.

those were good sets.the vertical ic was a real problem.seen hundreds of them.change out the ic and there are a few caps that need to be replaced.i think it came in a kit.good luck and that cabinet is choice!

Well I took off the back and the chassis number is 25c206-aa and apparently this crt was replaced in 5/'88. Well ive now found the sams for this.

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4303/tvsetsandradios009.jpg (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/tvsetsandradios009.jpg/)

There is a transistor on the RIGHT circuit board that can cause no vertical. I cant for the life of me remember where it is exactly, but I do remember replacing alot of them on C2 chassis.

My parents had one of these chassis in a set I gave them. They got over 20 years out of it before the CRT dimmed away. Minimal service required

I had a mid-80s C9 series Magnavox (NAP) from '84 and it had a really nice picture.

Sometimes ICs fail on their own, but most vertical ic's I've seen bad were caused by a nearby capacitor shorting or being very leaky. So if you could post a close-up pic of the board in question, we can identify any parts that 'must go'.

well ive ordered the sams, but im sure ill still be asking a load of questions. So most likely its a bad cap thats causing the problem, or a bad vertical deflection circuit? Holmesuser01 said it could be a bad chip thats been known to cause no vertical?

Also, this set could have been doing this for upwards of 8 hours(i fell asleep with it working and woke to this), im guessing thats potentially long enough for it to burn a line in the crt? So I guess ill just have to try and fix her and cross my fingers i didnt ruin it.

Should I be worried about any other problems, since this crt has a tag on it that says it was replaced in 5 of '88 ?
.
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5229/tvsetsandradios011.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/i/tvsetsandradios011.jpg/)

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3529/tvsetsandradios012.jpg (http://img849.imageshack.us/i/tvsetsandradios012.jpg/)

The IC is the chip. What I was saying is that it's good practice to change the chip's associated parts when it goes bad, since they might have been the culprits.

To quickly check for burnlines in the crt phosphor, turn the set off and use a small flashlight to inspect the middle of the screen for darkening (in the shape of the line)...but to be honest, it can take a lot longer than 8 hrs to do it so you're probably okay. Just turn down the brightness.

Those C2 Chassis' were famous for the 40V B+ line off the flyback going out, causing loss of vertical and no tuning.

Check R723 (with the set off/unplugged) and see if it reads about 5 ohms. It's either a 4.3 ohm or 4.7 ohm resistor. if it reads open or way increased in value (>5 ohms), then you probably have a shorted D706 as well. An NTE552 is the replacement diode. Replace the resistor and diode and try it again. All of this is off of pin 7 of the flyback transformer (far right hand side of the chassis)

Don't try to measure anything with the set plugged in. Cramped quaters around the fly, and one slip....

The 40V is used on those sets to power both the vertical and to derive the tuning voltage to the tuner. Common problem.


Cheers,