I've wanted one of these little two-tone portables for a while and one finally showed up just a few miles away. The seller has a nice collection of vintage furniture, paintings and nicknacks. He's moving to Maui so it all has to go.

There are a few chips and some worn areas, but not bad for a 55 year old set I think. All the knobs are there too.

I'm a little surprised it draws 135 watts. Seems like a lot for a little 10" set.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5432931850_15df42ca51_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5432932010_2a249a9034_z.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/5432322297_38c9e86eed_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5432321783_e6c48435ca_z.jpg

Very nice. One of those are on my list of 'want to haves'.

I recently picked up a pile of Riders and Sams, but am missing this model :rolleyes:
Does anyone have a scan of the Sams or Riders for this model ?

Thanks!

I spent a few hours going over this set tonight. The front came off easily enough, but the back was stuck.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5437432963_3c6ca2539c_z.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/5438039596_a441231d37_z.jpg

The knobs were especially stubborn. I'll let them soak a while to clean off the gunk.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5438039934_85a7bfd3f9_z.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5438041952_90c0c8e09b_z.jpg

I ended up pulling the whole chassis. It's a little dirty, but looks OK.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/5437434103_cf9567b7d6_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5437433835_56fd01fe66_z.jpg

National Video Corp picture tube. I hope it's good.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5437434323_95b9d50f4d_z.jpg

Yes it is :D
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5437435687_7b4e935895_z.jpg

The speaker has a little patch. Could that be asbestos around that tube ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/5438041432_69b6bd773b_z.jpg

The bottom is nice and clean.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5437434883_b41c022a96_z.jpg

Curiosity got the better of me and I slowly powered it up on a variac and isolation transformer over the course of an hour or so.
I kept my fingers crossed that the seleniums and electrolytics had some life left. None of the cans got hot.

Eventually, I was treated to a raster :)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5437435937_34ae5540f8_z.jpg

I flipped the clunker around until I hit 6 where we still have a low power NTSC signal.
The horizontal, brightness and contrast are all very touch, but I do get video and sound :thmbsp:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5437436185_8a1ff1e361_z.jpg

You bet that's asbestos! I've wanted one of these portables for awhile, just of the same generic 8pt, hotpoint variety. Everyone I've found has been too overpriced. It's cool you get that copper plated chassis with that package, too.

I paid $65 for it. Dunno if that's a good price, but it was so close to home I couldn't pass on it.

I tweaked it a bit more and hooked up a converter box. Here's some Untouchables action.

Yes, I know - the seleniums and caps are likely to fail any time. I'll do a proper resto. soon.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5437517517_bcf13153f4_z.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5438124198_e180876359_z.jpg

You bet that's asbestos! I've wanted one of these portables for awhile, just of the same generic 8pt, hotpoint variety. Everyone I've found has been too overpriced. It's cool you get that copper plated chassis with that package, too.

I wonder why only one tube has asbestos :scratch2: It's on the tuner and the other two tubes have metal shields.

I wonder why only one tube has asbestos :scratch2: It's on the tuner and the other two tubes have metal shields.

Probably because it's right next to the metal cabinet and they didn't want a hot spot on the side of it.

Here's the turquoise version for sale in Kingston, WA. http://cgi.ebay.com/VERY-NICE-1957-10-ADMIRAL-TV-part-restore-/260737501535

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!CFzGRRQEGk~$(KGrHqIOKiQE1U((QmcSBNWLor7hl!~~_3.JP G

I wonder if that antenna is stock ? Perhaps I'm missing mine ?

I have a couple of these, one Turquoise and White and one Two Tone Green.

The Turquoise one is the first thing I ever bought on eBay around 1998 and it was a mess, got it working and repainted it but it's still not all back together.

the Green one just needed a Damper tube and it worked, it still came on a couple months ago when I tried it last. I bought it pig in a poke from some woman who contacted me through my site I think. It's in good shape with just a little peeling paint.

I have a couple of these, one Turquoise and White and one Two Tone Green.

The Turquoise one is the first thing I ever bought on eBay around 1998 and it was a mess, got it working and repainted it but it's still not all back together.

the Green one just needed a Damper tube and it worked, it still came on a couple months ago when I tried it last. I bought it pig in a poke from some woman who contacted me through my site I think. It's in good shape with just a little peeling paint.

Cool :thmbsp: Do they have an antenna on the back ?

I popped the CRT out and found where all the caps were hiding :)
It's much easier to work on now :yes: I used a sharpie to mark where the ion trap magnet and other bits were positioned. I hope that'll make it easier to put back together properly.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5443649109_0ee56aaa0e_b.jpg

You definitely need to do the hot chassis fix. these were notorious for the cabinets being hot despite all insulators being in place.

You definitely need to do the hot chassis fix. these were notorious for the cabinets being hot despite all insulators being in place.

What's the fix ? better insulators ?

Speaker of hot chassis, there's a big 54 ohm 20W resistor running down one side to drop the filament voltage.

Here's the series wired tube lineup:

3.15 - 3BC5
4.70 - 5J6
3.15 - 3CB6
3.15 - 3CB6
6.30 - 6BA8A
4.70 - 5U8
3.15 - 3DT6
12.6 - 12CU5
6.30 - 6CM7
6.30 - 6CG7
12.6 - 12DQ6
12.6 - 12AX4GTA
6.30 - 10ABP4
----
85 @ 600mA

I plugged that into this website (http://redirectingat.com/?id=1010X502100&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vintage-radio.com%2Frepair-restore-information%2Fvalve_dropper-calcs.html&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.videokarma.org%2Fshowthread. php%3Ft%3D250026) Reece tipped me off to and got this.

note: I used 120 for the supply voltage. If I use 117, I get 53 ohms @ 19.2 W.

* Dropper resistor = 60 ohms @ 21.6 W

* Dropper resistor with diode = 1 ohms @ 0.3 W

* Dropper capacitor = 22 uF + 17 ohms @ 6W

I like the idea of shaving off most of that wasted 20W. Has anyone tried the diode or capacitor method in a series string TV set ?

Assuming the heater amperage is the same I wonder if you could change some of those tubes for the higher voltage versions?
6CB6
6U8
6DT6
6J6
25DQ6 I think there was one of these?

Assuming the heater amperage is the same I wonder if you could change some of those tubes for the higher voltage versions?
6CB6
6U8
6DT6
6J6
25DQ6 I think there was one of these?

Yes, there was 25DQ6. Good idea, but, unfortunately, those are all 300mA.

The hot chassis fix here is to rewire the switch to switch the power supply instead of the chassis. I have the fix in more detail on my website. You want the chassis wired directly to the interlock, and the switch to the power supply. Polarize the plug so the wide blade is to the chassis.

Because never, ever, is any AC outlet ever miswired....

Cool :thmbsp: Do they have an antenna on the back ?

No, pretty sure that is an aftermarket item.

Just checked, my Green one has a couple holes where an antenna may have been mounted, it also has some factory untapped holes that may have been for a factory antenna.

Thanks for the info. The anodized green set is really cool :yes:

Here's the original schematic and my proposed modifications to replace the seleniums and eliminate that 20W filament dropping resistor.

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/Admiral%20T102/sch-01.jpg


I figure I can replace the 10 ohm fusistor with a plain fuse and 100-200 ohms to drop the voltage down when the seleniums are replaced with silicon.
Seems easier than using two separate resistors - one for each diode.

My hope is that the CL-90 will provide a soft start but not restrict the current too much. I have a CL80 and CL-130 I can experiment with too.
Perhaps I should use a diode that can handle more current ? The surge might be too much for a 1A 1N4007.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/Admiral%20T102/mod-01.jpg

and eliminate that 20W filament dropping resistor.


My hope is that the CL-90 will provide a soft start but not restrict the current too much. I have a CL80 and CL-130 I can experiment with too.
Perhaps I should use a diode that can handle more current ? The surge might be too much for a 1A 1N4007.


The 1N4007 will be fine. Silicon diodes can take a brief surge higher than their average current rating. You'll have to look at the brightness of the heaters in the tubes to see if they look to be the right level, as a voltmeter won't give a meaningful number (though a true RMS meter might).

As for the hot chassis fix, relocate the switch to the filament circuit and your low voltage fuse. Connect the now empty lug on the interlock to the chassis. Polarize that side of the line cord, and hope your outlets are wired correctly. As noted earlier, these sets were notorious for hot cabinets.

I finished recapping the set over the weekend. I unmounted and restuffed all the eletrolytics and replaced all the paper caps with some nice Cornell Dubilier, Mallory and Orange Drops.

I uncrimped the ends on the two electroytics cans that are exposed.
The rest I just cut open because the seam will be covered by a cardboard tube.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5466078692_519ffc5eeb_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5465481609_f1b0571849_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5211/5465482115_0e34e2dffb_z.jpg

New caps installled
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5465483087_f8ed5e5874_b.jpg

I also cleaned things up a bit while I had it all exposed.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5465482635_4156d40506_b.jpg

I left the big 20W dropper and seleniums in place. I'll tackle those next.

The picture seems a litle crisper and the sound is much better :)
The horizontal hold is still very touchy though.

Perhaps I should replace the dual selenium AFC rectifier ? It's the green thingy on the circuit board in the picture above.
What type of modern diode would be appropriate ?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5465483601_1071177926_b.jpg

I tacked in a 1N4007 and CL-90. I also disconnected the CRT and stuck a 5 ohm resistor in it's place just in case I got something wrong.
I turned the set on and the filaments slowly lit up to the normal brightness :)
I reconnected the CRT and it works just fine. The CL-90 getts a little hot - maybe 2-3 watts. Certainly better than 20W :yes:

I also tried a CL-80 (slightly lower 'ON' resistance) but didn't notice much difference.

Now, on to the selenium rectifiers. I checked B+ with them still in the set and it's only 213 volts :no: It should be 255!
I'm really curious to see what effect getting B+ up to the proper level will have.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5467278015_93eda11499_z.jpg

Here are the final modifications I went with. I rewired the power switch as Big Dave suggested.
It runs cooler now and B+ is dead on.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5469727699_6c94242629_b.jpg

I mounted the new components on a terminal strip near the AC interlock.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5218/5470320598_898eff2b09_b.jpg

.
It runs cooler now and B+ is dead on.

Do you mean that the set as a whole runs cooler? Also, what do you think was keeping the B+ below specs and did bringing it up provide any noticable performance improvement?:scratch2:

Do you mean that the set as a whole runs cooler? Also, what do you think was keeping the B+ below specs and did bringing it up provide any noticable performance improvement?:scratch2:

Well at least one corner of it is cooler. That's where I've replaced the 20W filament dropper with a diode.

The old seleniums were keeping the voltage down. They got noticeably warm during operation. I suspect their resistance has increased over time.

As for performance - it's a mixed bag. I can get a brighter picture now, but the contrast isn't as good. Also the vertical retrace lines are more visible. The horizontal sync is still flaky like it has been since I first powered up the set. I suspect I need to replace the dual selenium AFC rectifier. The important thing is that i can stop worrying about the seleniums go up in smoke while I continue tweaking the set. I've had it happen once before and don't ever want to experience that again :yuck:

I'm also checking the resistors more thoroughly than I did first time around. I'm considering replacing the germanium video detector diode while I have the set open too.

I take it that the diode has a similar forward resistance as the old wire-wound resistor had in order to maintain the proper voltage. I am sort of new to the whole concept of replacing one component with a totally different, more modern component. I have read up a bit on eliminating 5U4s or other tube diodes used in a rectifier configuration, and replacing them with silicon diodes and a resistor to drop the same voltage as the tube filament. I have seen a few sets with the selenium rectifier disconnected and some older (germanium?) solid state diode(s) wired in its place. I thought that selenium rectifiers tended to run a bit hot, hence the cooling fins. I KNOW that they smell terrible when the finally do burn up, but the few that I have seen burn up were caused by bad electrolytics.

I take it that the diode has a similar forward resistance as the old wire-wound resistor had in order to maintain the proper voltage. I am sort of new to the whole concept of replacing one component with a totally different, more modern component. I have read up a bit on eliminating 5U4s or other tube diodes used in a rectifier configuration, and replacing them with silicon diodes and a resistor to drop the same voltage as the tube filament. I have seen a few sets with the selenium rectifier disconnected and some older (germanium?) solid state diode(s) wired in its place. I thought that selenium rectifiers tended to run a bit hot, hence the cooling fins. I KNOW that they smell terrible when the finally do burn up, but the few that I have seen burn up were caused by bad electrolytics.


The silicon diodes have a lower resistance than the seleniums. That's why I have to increase the 10 ohm resistor to 22 ohms. I actually used a 32 and 75 in parallel each rated at something like 25 watts because that's all I had on hand. Really I think a 5-10 W would be fine.

As for using a diode in the filament string, that's a new concept to me as well. I first heard about it a while back as a potential replacement for the nasty VT71 ballast. I didn't actually try it until a few weeks ago in a Philco 37-611 radio. So cool that one little bitty device can replace a big 20W resistor and generate virtually no heat.

There is nothing wrong with the huge, original resistor and I could have left it alone. However, this little set uses around 130 watts and I figure any heat savings are a good idea.

I pulled the dual selenium AFC diode and tried to check it on a DMM and a VTVM. I got infinity on every range. I'd read these were tough to test. There seems to be some debate on what to replace them with as well: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110903

I just went with a couple 1N4007 because I have a bunch on hand. The horizontal sync is definitely more stable now. I'll poke around for some 1N914s too. I'm curioius to see if there's any difference.

The contrast and retrace lines seem better now as well.

Although the earlier screenshots I posted look good, the set and a tendency to either lose sync or drift off center like this.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5470284563_7bbb34b784_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5470877362_8fd446ece9_z.jpg

Here it is with the new diodes installed :thmbsp: Now, you have to really crank the hor. lock control way off center to lose sync.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5470284927_7b2f372390_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5470877830_56a51f727f_z.jpg

I just went with a couple 1N4007 because I have a bunch on hand. The horizontal sync is definitely more stable now. I'll poke around for some 1N914s too. I'm curious to see if there's any difference.



I'd use any diode that is suitable to use as a AM radio detector diode. Rectifier diodes may be too slow (in time) to "recover" (start or stop conducting) and have too much stray capacitance. The set may have better sync stability even more, with the detector diodes.

I thought I posted last night about the domino shaped capacitors, some are mica (usually good) and some are paper caps (usually bad). Maybe I hit "cancel" or maybe my linking to another site's images was bad or wrong. :scratch2: Anyway, large uF class caps are usually paper, the pF class are usually mica. But horizontal circuits more likely use micas. Papers should be bad by now, so if the set works, they are probably micas.

I'd use any diode that is suitable to use as a AM radio detector diode. Rectifier diodes may be too slow (in time) to "recover" (start or stop conducting) and have too much stray capacitance. The set may have better sync stability even more, with the detector diodes.

I thought I posted last night about the domino shaped capacitors, some are mica (usually good) and some are paper caps (usually bad). Maybe I hit "cancel" or maybe my linking to another site's images was bad or wrong. :scratch2: Anyway, large uF class caps are usually paper, the pF class are usually mica. But horizontal circuits more likely use micas. Papers should be bad by now, so if the set works, they are probably micas.

There's about 20 volts p-p across the diodes so a 1N34A or 1N914 should be OK. I'll give both a try.

I also picked up a replacement 1N270 for the video detector. I haven't installed it yet though because it's a bit hard to get at.

I poked around my local Menards for matching orange paint. This is what i came up with - Rust-oleum Engine Enamel Chevy Orange Red rated for 500F.
I hardly need paint rated for that temp, but it was the best color match.

Here's a test I did with a big iced tea can. Pretty good match I think.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5472652495_86a4e65b36_z.jpg

My first tube TV was a GE 14T1- green and white two tone that someone replaced everything except the filters on. I paid 5$ for it and an EICO fly tester. It has great audio, but no HV. Once I dig it out of storage I'll debug the HV and possibly sell it, if I can't get HV I'll definitly sell it. In my bassackwards mind something has to work before it qualifies to sit on a shelf and go unused for months!

Tom C.

My first tube TV was a GE 14T1- green and white two tone that someone replaced everything except the filters on. I paid 5$ for it and an EICO fly tester. It has great audio, but no HV. Once I dig it out of storage I'll debug the HV and possibly sell it, if I can't get HV I'll definitly sell it. In my bassackwards mind something has to work before it qualifies to sit on a shelf and go unused for months!

Tom C.

LOL - That's what happens with most of my sets too.

I polished the chrome carrying handle with Simichrome. It turned out well but now I can't touch it or I leave fingerprints ;)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5476838363_a5e268d359_z.jpg

I noticed that this CRT like many of my others has some air bubbles in it. Not really noticeable unless you sit really close.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5476838531_34c203a5e3_b.jpg

I also picked up a replacement 1N270 for the video detector. I haven't installed it yet though because it's a bit hard to get at.

The original is working fine, I'd leave it. You'd get no picture if it were bad. They don't go bad like seleniums do.

Sure that those air bubbles in the CRT screen glass are not vacuum bubbles? :D

The original is working fine, I'd leave it. You'd get no picture if it were bad. They don't go bad like seleniums do.

Sure that those air bubbles in the CRT screen glass are not vacuum bubbles? :D

LOL - could be. OK, I'll leave the detector diode alone.
BTW I did put small signal diodes in the AFC instead of 1N4007s and it's working even better now :yes:

:scratch2:In my bassackwards mind something has to work before it qualifies to sit on a shelf and go unused for months!

That is exactly the way I am! I (along with most of the women I have dated) have often wondered if it was some kind of mental condition that caused a person to have a drive to repair something just so it can sit on a shelf and get used once or twice a year in order to keep the capacitors in working order. Also, if I get stumped on something I seem to not want it around and the way things are now I am forced to go back in time and scrap it. I used to at least be able to give a TV set to someone, or better yet make a few bucks to make back some of the cost of replacement parts and the value of tubes.:thmbsp: After NOT being able to find a loving home for my 1958 24" Zenith Space Command console set, neither for money or for FREE, I am just going to scrap anything that is not simply extremely rare.:no: I had high hopes for the Zenith due to what seems to be a VERY low use chassis and crt and the fact that the 24" tube is not exactly common, nor was remote control at the time. :scratch2:

I buffed out the safety plastic with some Novus. There are still a couple deeper abrasions but it's a lot better than it was.

The picture has never been particularly bright, but I figured that was just due to the age of the picture tube. Well, I was about to put it together when I decided to check the HV with my Pomona probe.
It's only 6 kV when it should be about 7.5 kV. I also did a dry run an discovered I can't get the vertical to fill the whole visible screen. I guess I have a little more work left :o

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5218/5478223724_3f3c7f570f_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5218/5477625635_2b8f3e7bac_z.jpg

Yes, I repaired the defective ballast in my VT-71 with a pair of AC rated capacitors (plus 2 resistors), and it works well, and runs cool. As I recall, I think the caps were 8.2uF for this set. Have to verify that when I get back in the set..

Have you checked the B+? Just curious if it were possible for that being low to cause lack of vertical size and lowered HV at the second anode.

Please don't scrap your Zenith, someone will eventually come along and get it running for you or buy it.

I'd love to have a look at it but I'm too far away!

Have you checked the B+? Just curious if it were possible for that being low to cause lack of vertical size and lowered HV at the second anode.

Yes, it's dead on. If I vary it using a variac, the vertical and HV don't change much. I hope it's just a matter of some resisters being off.

Eric H Please don't scrap your Zenith, someone will eventually come along and get it running for you or buy it.

I'd love to have a look at it but I'm too far away!

Agreed! That sounds like a rare and nice zenith. If I was on the east coast I'd be willing to take it off of your hands. If you take it to the ETF convention in Ohio I'm sure someone(possibly me) will be more than happy to buy it.


Tubejunke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
In my bassackwards mind something has to work before it qualifies to sit on a shelf and go unused for months!

That is exactly the way I am! I (along with most of the women I have dated) have often wondered if it was some kind of mental condition that caused a person to have a drive to repair something just so it can sit on a shelf and get used once or twice a year in order to keep the capacitors in working order. Also, if I get stumped on something I seem to not want it around and the way things are now I am forced to go back in time and scrap it. I used to at least be able to give a TV set to someone, or better yet make a few bucks to make back some of the cost of replacement parts and the value of tubes. After NOT being able to find a loving home for my 1958 24" Zenith Space Command console set, neither for money or for FREE, I am just going to scrap anything that is not simply extremely rare. I had high hopes for the Zenith due to what seems to be a VERY low use chassis and crt and the fact that the 24" tube is not exactly common, nor was remote control at the time.

For me the reason I repair is for the challenge, and that high I get after finding and correcting a really tough bug. that and seeing somethimg over twice as old as me working like new, other things like braging that nearly every thing I own works etc. come second. There are exceptions to the if I can't fix it it gets sold or donated to the local radio club rule. I'll hang on to anything that I like the look of (especially art deco) also coveted sets like any color set that may have originally used a NTSC standard phosphor tube, any TV pre-1950, anything with a remote, any radio with a tube count of 14 or higher and anything that I want to have in my colection that I don't think I'll find again. Case in point I'm using a Philco beam of light (which is out of wack except for the amp) as the head board of my bed. I also have a policy of not parting out anything pre-1970, however I once made one nice radiola model fourty-something out of two messed up ones(forgive me father for I have sinned:sigh:).

Please do not scrap that Zenith!

Tom C.

Agreed! That sounds like a rare and nice zenith. If I was on the east coast I'd be willing to take it off of your hands. If you take it to the ETF convention in Ohio I'm sure someone(possibly me) will be more than happy to buy it.Please do not scrap that Zenith!

I really think that I could get it going myself as it is already recapped, but the problem lies deeper than that. I have posted on this before so I sort of hate to go off topic, but anyway the biggest hindrance of repair of this set is simply not having a way to power the chassis to do voltage checks and if I had a scope I would look at waveforms. The big 24" tube does not come out with the chassis, nor does the tuner, so I would either have to build a jig to hold the crt, or make necessary extension leads for the yoke and second anode HV connection; I could just unbolt the tuner and motor. The easiest and best approach would be to get lucky and find one of those small test crts to power the chassis. Anyway, I just didn't have the heart, or lack thereof to bust up the Zenith. With no interest in the set I have made further attempts at finding the problem. I used a megger to check out the vertical output transformer and the choke (while I was already close by) for grounded or open windings. I did a little probing around with a Huntron Solid State Tracker, but that is best used to compare footprints with that of a known good component in a similar or identical circuit. Really, it all boils down to good old signal tracing I think. I may just bite the bullet and build a wooden jig for that crt and get the job done. A low use, big screen 50s set with remote control would be a GREAT daily user I think. Oh, the remote is missing, but I think that they are pretty easy to find.

Thanks for the encouragement! :thmbsp:

I did some probing and found the 410V derived from the 420V boost was only around 350V. I measure R78 and it was high - about 8K.
I replaced that and got full height even though the 410V line was still low at 380V with 8V P-P of ripple.

Unfortunately, while I was adjusting various controls the picture starting breaking up. Then I completely lost the video and sound. I still have a good raster and all the controls respond.

I've already checked the tubes and replaced a weak 3CB6. The 5J6 is a little weak too, but I couldn't find a replacement so I tried a 6J6. That didn't make any difference.

I'll fire up my 1077B and try injecting signals at various points in the RF/IF stages. I hope it's something simple.

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/Admiral%20T102/boost.jpg

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/Admiral%20T102/boost%20ripple.jpg

I fixed the set (again) :banana:
It took a while, but eventually I found this bad resistor hiding under a coil :rolleyes:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5489715086_7068e6a9be_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5489119993_e570d4ea92_z.jpg

That supplied +130V to the 2nd IF stage. That's right before the detector so no picture or sound. I replaced it and got the picture back but no sound.

More troubleshooting revealed the coupling cap between the volume control and audio output tube had a broken lead. I quickly soldered that back on sound was restored :music:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5489123707_fffb5beb3a_z.jpg

Better yet, I have full vertical although the control is near the edge of it's range. I'd still like to find out why the 410 line is a little low :scratch2:
When I first popped this set open, I found a 1.8K resistor someone had added between the 410 line and 10uF filter cap.
That seemed odd and I removed it. It might be worthwhile to put it back. Doesn't seem like adding a resistor is going to increase the voltage though.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5489725170_507f21a891_z.jpg

Also, replacing the weak 3CB6 increase the gain and I have a brighter picture.
Odd that it and the 5J6 test weak now when they were good a couple weeks ago.
Maybe running this set for a few hours drained what life they had left ?

The picture is off-center to the left a little, but I can take care of that by adjusting the ion trap magnet or centering magnets.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5489128307_c11216603f_z.jpg

I put the set back together and it's playing well.
Sometime later this spring or summer I plan on repainting the cabinet.
I think I'll try using electrolysis to remove the rust and hopefully the paint too.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5493815980_fbdbdcf338_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5493815814_f50f6e1c9e_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5493222183_9576815275_z.jpg

Tubejunkie since you did not want to go off topic I sent you a PM with some suggestions.

Tom C.

I masked off some of the orange on my paint test subject and put on a few coats of "Ivory Bisque" followed by a clear coat of the engine enamel. I think it looks great and is very tough :)
I examined the cabinet and it appears they also painted the whole cabinet orange first, than applied the white. Odd - I would have done it the other way round :scratch2:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5498655264_acac55a79b_z.jpg

Here's one for sale in very, very nice condition! http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-1957-2-Tone-Admiral-T102-Portable-TV-Television-/290541493996 (no affil.)

Is this plaid cover original ? It sure looks like it.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqYOKkIE1q2cgf!-BNcuLog+hg~~_3.JPG

That is an original cover, I've seen ads with those in them.

I Picked up some aftermarket plastic covers on eBay in Red and Pink for my Hotpoint/GE 9" and 14" sets.

They were NOS with the boxes but they had shrunk somewhat and it was a bit difficult to get them on the TV's

The Emerson 1232 8" Portable also had a zippered carrying case, I have one but it's falling apart at the seams and is stiff with age.

maybe they used those covers as a work-around for the hot chassis issues those sets had.

I have just had a mint condition T-103 as a gift: as all tv has switched to digital, few enthusiast want to mess up with VHF modulators.
I think it's a very rare set to find in Italy: actually I've been told that it belonged to a wealthy US family living in Milan.
In 1956 few people owned a TV, (they costed like 5-6 month wages) and no one was already caring for a kitchen - or holiday house - set.
The body is near perfect, inside is very clean. I've been told that it works, but I want to check it for leakages first, using a variac and isolation transformer.
Export sets like this have an additional auto-transformer to adapt to different line voltages, 220 included. And of course they are tuned to the 625 lines - 5.5 MHz intercarrier used here.
I have a schematic but not the SAM's service manual ...
Thanks for all the advice on this thread, I hope to begin working on it soon !
:thmbsp:

I scanned the Sams for the 14YP3 chassis and you can download a copy here (http://www.bobandersen.com/images/schematics/admiral/14YP3B/Sams%20350-1%20(Admiral%2014YP3B).pdf)

It may be of some use to you. Good luck.

A good source for dropping capacitors is old ceiling fans, you'll find them in the switch housing.

The green T-103 I'm working on, as I said, was sold in Italy. It differs from the US market models in the power supply (see schematics). It's got an autotransformer. This increases the weight, but has a great bonus: it gets rid of the 20W resistor with an 85V tap for the heaters !
Additionally, it provides 220V for the B+, so that a voltage doubler circuit is not necessary, and the 2 selenium units are wired together.
I'm slowly conditioning the capacitors with a Variac now ...

We've finally climbed out of the 30s so it's time to repaint this cabinet :D

I picked up a tub big enough to submerge the cabinet. I filled it with some water and Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate).
I used a 2A/10A battery charger for the juice and a big old cold chisel for the sacrificial iron.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5590907353_48b99797cd_z.jpg

I was really surprised that the paint was bubbling off in only 30 minutes!
A few hours later and it was all off :)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5069/5590889061_52d5bd3b69_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5187/5590889243_51a33a9081_z.jpg

It worked even better on the orange paint.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/5590889417_72d8d55aee_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5591480898_aa945a4cfc_z.jpg

I had some gray and maroon primer on hand and used appropriately.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5590889921_eccbc94750_z.jpg

Now it's time to pull the chassis and dunk the rest of the cabinet.

The paint is coming off the main cabinet nicely too :)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5142/5597347682_6d67398066_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5597347852_14c49aa179_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5227/5597347970_103b653817_z.jpg

For those of us not well versed in electrolysis (me) could you explain what you've done and what the various pieces do during the process please?

I've only used it to remove rust before and was surprised at how well it lifted the paint off. Here's what I did.

* Fill a tub with water and sodium carbonate.

* Connect the negative lead of a battery charger to your rusty/painted item. Any power supply that puts out 10-15 volts at 1-2 amps should work OK.

* connect the positive to a piece of iron or steel. Don't use anything with Chromium in it. That might produce toxic compounds.

* Submerge them both in the tub, but DO NOT allow them to touch.

* Kick back and wait a few hours.

If you're removing rust, it should turn black. If you're removing paint, hopefully it's lifting off. I've heard it doesn't always work.
Use a wire brush or scouring pad to remove the black stuff / paint.

Clean the bare metal thoroughly and get some primer on it before it's starts rusting again.

If you search the web for "rust removal electrolysis" , you'll find a lot more info and tips.

I apologize beforehand, but I'm a details kind of guy.

Does it matter the ratio of water to sodium?

What does the chunk of steel do? Is it some kind of catalyst, or is it used up somehow in the process?

If I come up with anything else I'll check your provided sources.

Something like 1 tablespoon per gallon. The chunk of steel will get eaten away in the process.

I finally got all the paint off the main cabinet body and sprayed it with primer.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5599390785_8455f8316b_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5309/5599390939_e76cc72c08_z.jpg

How hard was it to remove the paint after the electrolysis loosened it?

Phil Nelson

Not hard at all. A little wire brushing took 95+% off. I used some citrus based stripper to loosen up the rest.

The stripped chassis sure looks nice. I'm curious how the overall mess/work equation compares to using plain old stripper. Also, we live in the sort-of country and have to be careful about what goes into our septic system. Dumping big tubs of chemical gack down the toilet isn't always a good idea.

Phil Nelson

I scrubbed the paint off outside of the tub. So what's left in it is mild soapy water and some fine rust particles. I let it settle for a couple days and poured the soapy water down the drain. I poured/scooped the rusty sludge into a coffee can and disposed of it.

That's really neat! I soaked mine in a 5 gallon bucket of carburetor dip, talk about toxic!

If you stuck some Chrome (or Gold) in the tub and reversed to polarity what would happen? :scratch2:

A chrome TV might be kind of cool.

That's really neat! I soaked mine in a 5 gallon bucket of carburetor dip, talk about toxic!

If you stuck some Chrome (or Gold) in the tub and reversed to polarity what would happen? :scratch2:

A chrome TV might be kind of cool.
I think it might work if you used the right electrolyte. I've heard chrome compounds are pretty nasty though.

-
I sprayed on a couple light coats of the Ivory Bisque then let it dry and sanded. Then another two coats and sanding.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/5621186972_9337dffc73_z.jpg

Here's a preview before I sprayed the bottom. I think it's gonna look pretty sweet :)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5187/5621187146_a52c7a5de8_z.jpg

Next, I masked off the white top and sides and sprayed a few light coats of orange.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5621176440_4c432d7f06_z.jpg

After it set up about an hour, I carefully removed the blue tape. The orange bled through in a couple spots, but it's not too bad.
I think a little careful sanding will take care of it. Then, I'll put on some clear coat and let it cure for a week or so.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5024/5621176604_e3545757e5_z.jpg

buddy of mine picked up one of these, took the back off, noticed a black wire that comes from the brightness pot looks like it was maybe soldered to the chassis ground, does that sound right?

Yes, one side of the brightness pot is grounded. You can download the Sams here (http://www.earlytelevision.org/images/Admiral-14YP3B-Sams-350-1.pdf).

Here's how the cabinet turned out.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5236/5843083783_40279a5d02_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/5843083783/) http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5843109649_f89eb94222_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/5843109649/)

Hey!
Just read this entire thread and wow, what a phenomenal job you did! The cab came out great

Thanks! I still have the chassis out as I want to do a little more work on it. I found the 5J6 in the tuner was weak and it took me forever to track a good one down.
Also, the vertical height isn't as good as I'd like and the horizontal linearity stinks.

I think this holiday weekend will be a great time to finish it off :yes:

Nice paint job. How did did you remove the labels? That's if you were going to save them. Mine look like they are so dry they would practically fall off.

This holiday weekend I have choice between the the T102, the 721ts or the 20x12. :scratch2:

It took me less than a minute to track down a 5J6. This is one of my favorite suppliers and Stan has a good stock of oddball/tv type and other tubes.

http://www.esrcvacuumtubes.com/

Nice paint job. How did did you remove the labels? That's if you were going to save them. Mine look like they are so dry they would practically fall off.

This holiday weekend I have choice between the the T102, the 721ts or the 20x12. :scratch2:

Mine were practically falling off too. I used a razor blade to carefully get them off. I also made scans so I can reproduce them.

It took me less than a minute to track down a 5J6. This is one of my favorite suppliers and Stan has a good stock of oddball/tv type and other tubes.

http://www.esrcvacuumtubes.com/

Thanks for the tip, but I meant without ordering one. I have a stash of several 1,000 tubes that are unsorted. Many were unboxed too. I went through all of them and boxed and sorted them :drool: