Does anyone recognize this set? Zenith table / portable?
The only markings I can find are on the back cover: 610E26

I just got the set, and went through and tested the tubes... all seem to test ok...?
All I know how to do is test the tubes.
I have no sound, no video/ raster... but most of the tubes I see seem to light up.
Any ideas, circuit diagram???
Thanks,
Damon
hillsboro, oregon

Hi! I'm afraid you'll probably never win the contest for your skills in photography but I think the tv you have is the model Y 4204 "The Hals" from 1968. I had the same set till two days ago. I gave it to a friend of mine. I'll ask him the chassis number. I never had the circuit diagram for this set but I do remember it is very similar to the 15Y6C15 chassis equipping the portables of that era.
Marco

I have a whole start up procedure if you are interested. this applies mainly to sets that have not been turned on in years.

looks for burns/charring etc... under the chassis

pull the horiz out and vert out tube out of the circuit.

check the B+ for shorts, should be around 10k-15k.

if there is a b+ fuse, pull it and put a ma meter in its place set for 500ma

But a volt meter on the B+ as well (the highest one)

use a metered variac and start out low like 10v. My variac has a built in VAC and Ma meter. at 10v there should be very low current at the ac line and the B+, B+ voltage should be about double so around 20vdc

if it all looks good go up to 20v check it all again.

go up slowly, like every 5 min bump it 10v all the time watching the B+ voltage and current (current should be very low, like 50ma tops with no HOT or VOT load the B+ is pretty much just the low power tubes and at low voltage, very little current will flow, so if there is a lot of current flowing its prob shorted filter caps)
. with out the HOT load the B+ will go too high at full line voltage, so dont go over about 60v on the variac. the B+ is prob 350-400 v so watch the voltmeter on the B+ to make sure you dont exceed that. while doing this monitor the filter can caps(for heat, should not be warm at all). Careful if the circuit uses a voltage doubler, if the doubler can has lost its cardboard tube, remember the can is hot compared to the chasis (thats why the card board tube is over it).

The idea of all the above is to give the filter caps a chance to reform if the set has been idle for a long time.

if all the above goes well then turn off everything and reinstall the vert out and horz out tubes. put a meter on the cathode of the Horz out tube and turn on the set, leave the B+ current meter in place bring it up on the variac quckily this time up to 110v watching both the B+ current and then the horz out current.

B+ can be around 300ma maybe more I cant recall what is typical, the horz out cathode should rise as the tube warms up, but should stop at around 200-250ma if it shoot over that stop, you will have trouble shooting to do.


if you get nothing at aill I suspect a blown B+ fuse (from cold starting the filter caps can short out if you just plug it in, esp if the set uses solid state diodes in the power supply).

if the b+ is ok, the I would check the other lower value B+, sometimes a shorted part can take out one of the dropping resistors.