What would you recommend for securing the plastic cap to the glass tube on a 12lp4. Mine has come loose and if twisted the wrong way the filament turns off. Maybe epoxy or some type of glue? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Brandt

Check out this thread on repairing a damaged CRT base: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=248393

I used a clear 2 part epoxy I got at Lowes. IMHO I would desolder the connector, remove any loose chunks of old glue, solder on extension wires as bandersen suggests, then resolder the pins. If one has a bad connection now it needs re-soldered anyway.

-J

WRT the original RCA basing cement formula.

I have had a chance to do some experimenting with attempting to disolve/remove the bases on 15gp22 crt's. As it turns out the best chemical for softening the cement is denatured alcohol.

The binder that holds the various ingredients of the mix together is ROSIN! Rosin disolves in denatured alcohol, but it takes a long time to soften the rosin. If you want to remove rosin from your circuit boards use Denatured alcohol.

I think if you were not able to find the phenolic powder, you could take some phenolic board, which can be found at any good plastic wholesaler, and run it through a milling machine. I machine this material fairly often and the powder it makes during machining, would probably work just fine in the RCA mixture.

Personally I have been using 2 part 5 minute epoxy and it seems to work very well. I prepare the glass neck and base by first wraping a layer of 2" wide plastic carton sealing tape around the neck and the base so as to leave about a 1/2" wide gap exposed on the glass and the base. Then I mix the epoxy and slather a liberal layer of the epoxy all around the joint where the base meets the neck glass. I then take another piece of the carton sealing tape and wrap a tight layer of tape over the bead of epoxy. ONce the epoxy is entraped between the layer of tape and the glass/base, I then work the epoxy into the crack betewen the base and the neck glass, by pressing against the layer of tape which covers the epoxy. This helps to squeeze the epoxy into the crack between the base and the neck glass.

I let the epoxy set for a couple days and then I peel the layer of tape off of the epoxy. Then I peal the layer of tape off of the base, and then the layer of tape off the neck glass. It leaves you with a very thin clean layer of epoxy about
1/2" wide which completely fills the groove between the bakelite base and the neck glass.

Thanks for the info, planning to do the desoldering tonight. This tube may be bad but hoping to save it.