http://cgi.ebay.com/RCA-CT-100-CT100-Color-Television-TV-Set-Good-15GP22-/280568358044?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item41532d649c

That's a lot of moolah.Is an unrestored example worth that much?

That is incredible to see the filaments and perfect silver getters.This one should bring great attention and I suspect it may be worth the price if it is a good 15G

After reading a bit more of the ad I suspect it is in fact worth that price and likely more. It seems to be an incredible find to me. I hope someone here gets it. I wonder if one of those CT-100's ever worked after sitting for 30+ years without having new caps etc?

The seller is coming to the east coast via I-40. This interstate runs about a mile and a half from my house... at I-26 interchange.

Maybe I can stall him long enough for some of you guys to get here and get the set?

Just an idea.

I sure hope that someone on VK actually gets the set. They seem to be jumping out of the woodwork these days.

Bruce

I agree that this set probably has low operating hours; there is even strong evidence that the chassis was never removed by a servericer. I'd like to see the inside of the CRT connector; pin 13 will show evidence of HV if there was extensive use. Again, I suspect the seller is correct and this set is near virgin in terms of use. Of course, the cabinet shows decades of poor storage conditions. My guess is that this is a fairly early production set; I look for the seller to post the chassis serial number. There are too many weak spots in the components that RCA used in CT-100 production for this or ANY CTC2 chassis to work after five+ decades.

Thumbs up for that 15G!

Pete

I may know that set. I looked at one for sale in Torrance many years ago (seller's name "Alan"). If this is it, it was working at the time, but had some kind of intermittent short in the blue gun, or in the blue video output stage (would saturate & bloom in blue with retrace lines). I don't know what ever became of that set, or of indeed this is the same one. I'll be curious to learn though, if it comes to light. I recall the "Alan" set having been Vacu-Sealed, which would explain the good vacuum.

Charles

What's in that little book? Does anyone else have a copy?

Phil Nelson

What's in that little book?
Phil NelsonVery little. It's a small user manual.

Pete

I am the seller. I got this as part of an estate sale lot of sets. The set IS NOT from Torrance and has been stored for probably the past 50 years.

The emotions/internal conflicts involved with parting with this thing are heavy :grumpy::grumpy:. The odds of winning the lottery are better than one of these in this condition ever falling into my hands again.

I read Phil Nelsons web page several times on his CT-100 restore. I came to the conclusion I just wont have the time to give this set the love it deserves for years. (not to mention the 40 other sets I have here)

My hope is I can find someone who can at least get that crt sealed up right away. I guess if it doesnt sell I will have to look into doing it myself. I know most collectors (myself included) would want to do all their own work.

I really dont think the crt has been touched. The dust is thick and even.

I would never attempt to use the forum to sell something but it would be ideal if a serious collector got it.

Here is a picture of the crt socket and whats in the folder. I think the chip occurred when I removed the socket, and I was super gentle.
http://justsmog.com/Clay/ctc1002.jpg
http://justsmog.com/Clay/ctc100.jpg

I am the seller. I got this as part of an estate sale lot of sets. The set IS NOT from Torrance and has been stored for probably the past 50 years.

The emotions/internal conflicts involved with parting with this thing are heavy :grumpy::grumpy:. The odds of winning the lottery are better than one of these in this condition ever falling into my hands again.
...



That must be rough. I can only imagine.

It's nice that you have the literature that goes with it. And if you end up transporting it part way we all know it's in safe hands.

John

Maybe find the tiny black chips and super glue them back in the socket? Maybe nobody would care but I would. That set looks like one of the best one could every hope to find ever.

Maybe find the tiny black chips and super glue them back in the socket? Maybe nobody would care but I would. That set looks like one of the best one could every hope to find ever.

I dunno, those could have happened when it was released from the mold. If it happened when it was unplugged from the 15GP22, it probably would just happen again if they were glued back in.

John

Here is a picture of the crt socket... I think the chip occurred when I removed the socket, and I was super gentle.
http://justsmog.com/Clay/ctc1002.jpg
Clean as a whistle. No HV-based stress, which shows up on a black CRT socket as a grayish haze-like stain around the convergence connection, pin 13.

Pete

After reading a bit more of the ad I suspect it is in fact worth that price and likely more. It seems to be an incredible find to me. I hope someone here gets it. I wonder if one of those CT-100's ever worked after sitting for 30+ years without having new caps etc?

It probably is.I hope though that I am not the only one on this forum that can't afford that price though.

I would never attempt to use the forum to sell something but it would be ideal if a serious collector got it.


There's the Videokarma Classifieds http://www.videokarma.org/forumdisplay.php?f=60
which appears to be the proper place if your set doesn't sell on ebay..

Curious to know the cabinet number.
Kevin

Curious to know the cabinet number.
Kevin

Where is it? 901?

The pix (# 3 on the eBay posting) clearly shows #901 on the lid and the cabinet... there will be (hopefully) the same number on the backside of the removable panel under the "pencil box". The sn for the set is located under the power resistor in the back of the chassis. Is this set on the "known" CT-100 list?
jr

Does B8002101 sound like the serial number?

Yep! my avatar is B8003674.
jr

Funny thing about my front panel cabinet #... it did not match, but somebody before I got the set had scratched out the stamped # and penciled in the correct number. :scratch2:
I swear that I did not do this. (Pix 1)

I guess Pete has a page of known numbers but it is down. I would love to see if its on the list.

That serial number's near the middle of the list as I printed it from Pete's website before it went down. Don't know if he added any since then.

I hope my article hasn't scared you away from restoring your set. Apart from the color section, this TV's much like any other. My experience isn't necessarily representative. I'm a slowpoke and spin my wheels a lot, puzzling over things that a skilled mechanic would figure out in a snap.

Phil Nelson

I guess Pete has a page of known numbers but it is down. I would love to see if its on the list. Was not on the Living CT-100 List. But it is now. It stands as the 139th known Merrill.

This might be a good place to repeat my finding from collecting Merrill serial numbers for eleven years now. RCA shipped four thousand CT-100's, not five thousand, which was their published goal at the start of production.

Pete

That CT100 owners manual is extremely rare, I have only seen one before. But you have to read it very carefully to figure out it goes with a CT100 TV. A great extra to go with the set.

Yep! my avatar is B8003674.
jr This set was added to the Living CT-100 List 10-18-2009.
B8003674 is #136 on the list.

Pete

Wow! only 4 added in the last year... wonder how many more are lurking out there. :scratch2:
jr

As far as the chassis being removed there is a service tag visible in one of the pictures, so I'd bet the chassis has been removed. The bottom of the tag says color tv, and to subject that whole beast to a road trip would play heck on the convergence and purity, among other things. What a shame the date wasn't put on the ticket.
Phil

As far as the chassis being removed there is a service tag visible in one of the pictures, so I'd bet the chassis has been removed. Yes, I hear what you're saying, Phil. I wrestled with that tag too, but here's what overrode the removed-by-a-servicer possibility for me: two things: [1] the caretaker's statement that all the tubes seemed to be original, and [2] the photos seem to show all four scuff-pads are in place under the four knobs in the pencil box. I have a pristine CT-100 that has the pads, and that set is the only one that I have personally seen with the pads. With a servicer's penchant for not replacing assembly screws (not a criticism, only an observation :) ) I drew my "strong evidence" conclusion about the chassis never having been removed by a servericer. However, I never had the opportunity or pleasure to work in the TV service repair business, and so I gladly default to you and those who have.

BTW, was talking to John Folsom yesterday about displaying the pristine Merrill at the upcoming ETF convention if Steve McVoy can use the addition. The only collectors who have seen it are Bob Galanter and Mark Mason I believe (Dave Sica just missed it by a few days last January). Although not restored, it is amazing to see a CTC2 chassis as they it must have looked coming off the production line -- all shiny and gussied up :D. What sets this CT-100 apart from other low on-time sets such as B8002101 are both the chassis and the cabinet. Just a thought...

Hi,

here are the Merrils of the last five years on Youknowwhere:

Vtg 1954 RCA CT 100 Tube Television Wood Console RARE
Ended: 13. Aug. 2010 04:06:07 MESZ
Bid history: 20 Gebote
Winning bid: US $3.550,00

RCA First Production 1954 Color TV CT-100
The "Merrill" CT100 (CTC2) mahogany in great shape
Ended: Apr 10, 2010 20:00:49 PDT
Bid history: 6 bids
Winning bid: US $2,290.00

RCA CT-100 Original Owner
Ended: Apr 18, 2010 19:30:21 PDT
Bid history: 18 bids
Winning bid: US $5,600.00

Vintage RCA Victor color TV television CT-100
Ended: Mar 29, 2010 11:04:09 PDT
Bid history: 1 bid
Sold For: US $755.00

1954 RCA CT-100 Colored Television
Very Rare RCA first colored Television
Ended: 11. Nov. 2009 03:13:05 MEZ
Bid history: 12 Gebote
Winning bid: US $2.405,00

RARE RCA 15GP22 CRT FOR RCA CT-100 TV, FIRST COLOR CRT
Ended: 15. Nov. 2009 07:00:28 MEZ
Bid history: 12 Gebote
Winning bid: US $2.050,00

1954 RCA CT-100 Color Television Restored and Working
One of the finest working examples in the world!
Winning bid: US $5,464.00
Ended: Aug-06-08 21:19:05 PDT

1954 RCA CT-100 COLOR TELEVISION TV ... AND IT WORKS!
FIRST PRODUCTION COLOR TELEVISION
Winning bid: US $9,623.00
Ended: Jul-07-07 16:48:46 PDT

RCA CT-100 first color television tv set
first color television
Current bid: US $500.00
Reserve not met
Buy It Now price: US $10,000.00
End time: Jul-13-07 22:11:49 PDT (9 days 20 hours)

RCA CTC100 - THE RARE ONE
Winning bid: US $1,025.00
Ended: Aug-05-06 15:38:32 PDT
History: 7 bids

Vintage TV 1954 RCA CT-100 1st Color Television WORKS!
Museum Quality - includes collection of related items!
Winning bid: US $3,150.00
Ended: Jul-19-05 12:43:18 PDT
History: 18 bids (US $1,200.00 starting bid)

Kind regards,
Eckhard

Say it doesnt sell, do I want to pull the crt and apply vacseal right away?

Pete,
I may want to take my bet back. The installation instructions note "that the matched kinescope is is shipped in a separate carton but as a part of the same receiver". The carton shipped in the bottom part of the receiver contained the yoke, purity coil, and kinescope mounting components. Since the chassis first had to be removed to mount the 15GP22 and associated components, I can see the chassis being delivered, out of the cabinet, for two possible reasons: the technician can give the chassis a "once over" before installing it, and it would lighter on the guy's back. Looking at the tag, the person who filled it out seemed to be very deliberate in their handwriting, so I'm sure if there had been a repair date, it would have been included.

Phil

BTW, at the shops where I worked, we ALWAYS replaced all the screws.:D

Say it doesn't sell, do I want to pull the crt and apply vacseal right away?I don't know if anyone says for certain that it is fully effective. The successful RACS 15GP22 rebuild now on display at ETF was sealed with frit material, not vacseal. However, if/when you decide to remove the CRT, realize that just this year it was learned that the HV flange is extremely susceptible to edge damage; the flange can be the point of a leak. John Yurkon, Bob Galanter, and John Folsom did the work. Take care not to bang the flange edge into something.

Pete

BTW, at the shops where I worked, we ALWAYS replaced all the screws.:DPhil,
And always one or two tubes minumum:yes:!?...:D

Pete

Opinions vary regarding Vacseal, whether or not after application it would stop or prevent a leak. However, there is no downside to applying it, other than the risk of damage handling the 15GP22.

Once Bob Galanter and I get our helium leak detector up and working we will be able to apply some science to the art of leak detection and repair.

Pete:
:D
Phil

Vac u Seal works for systems that are about to be put under a vacuum AFTER YOU APPLY IT !!!!!
:thumbsdn:
Since the tube is fine ; adding it now will only stop future leaks, which you don't obviously have after 56 years ! We ONLY use it at NASA when we assemble parts, then put them under a vacuum during leak testing to suck the glue into the leaking joint. Since it's not leaking adding it now,( and if your lucky finding the spot where it might leak in the future) is a waste of time.

Quote from Pete Deksnis post #28: "the photos seem to show all four scuff-pads are in place under the four knobs in the pencil box. I have a pristine CT-100 that has the pads, and that set is the only one that I have personally seen with the pads."

Pete: My CT-100 serial # B8002407, Cabinet-lid-panel # 917 has the 4 original maroon colored discs (scuff pads) under the front control knobs. I bought my set many years ago from a retired RCA Service Co. executive. It is rare when these pads survive. Interesting that ebay CT-100 and its owner/collector is about 30 minutes down the freeway from me. Who knew?

-Steve D.

maroon colored discs (scuff pads)
What are these made of?

Phil Nelson

What are these made of?
Phil Nelson

Mine are stiff dark-gray/black fiber about 0.020" thick 1.195" diameter with a 0.290" hole in the center. they are tinted dark brown to match the knob on one side.
jr

Mine are stiff dark-gray/black fiber about 0.020" thick 1.195" diameter with a 0.290" hole in the center. they are tinted dark brown to match the knob on one side.
jr

I think they're phenolic. I have a few of them, as they came on a lot of RCAs from the early 50s through the late 50s; not just the CT-100. If you dig deep enough in any box of knobs, you'll find those. They filter to the bottom along with orphan knob springs, and moth-eaten felt washers.

Charles

I think they're phenolic. I have a few of them, as they came on a lot of RCAs from the early 50s through the late 50s; not just the CT-100. If you dig deep enough in any box of knobs, you'll find those. They filter to the bottom along with orphan knob springs, and moth-eaten felt washers.

Charles

Yes! that is the word I was looking for.:thmbsp:

"Phenolic sheet is a hard, dense material made by applying heat and pressure to layers of paper or glass cloth impregnated with synthetic resin."

jr

Jr and Charles' discription of the scuff pads is right on. I couldn't think of the word phenolic either in my post. In better light the discs are not maroon as I stated but a dark mahogany brown with a shiney coating on the front and flat black on the back.

-Steve D.

On this Vacseal stuff, does it dry hard? I can imagine if it does not remain soft and squishey on a surface that does not now have a leak, then if one develops it will not be "sucked" into the leak and seal it. Kinda like the self sealing tires, the stuff inside is always sticky. I wonder is a good chemical clean of the area, and application of a silicone glue or something that remains rubbery is not the best to apply to a surface that may or may not leak at a known spot......

I felt the Vacseal on one of my tubes about a month after sealing. It had cured beyond the "almost tacky" stage, but it didn't feel as hard as, say, cured varnish. This was casual feeling with a fingertip, not scientific inspection, and there's no way to know what's going on under the surface, of course.

I've been told that these leaks, when they happen, are at the microscopic level. If you apply something like glue, my question would be whether it's truly impermeable in the first place. A rubber balloon seems impermeable when you blow it up, but it eventually deflates because gas passes through the material.

We're all just guessing until John & Bob can apply some science to the question. I put Vacseal on my tubes on the theory that it probably won't hurt and it just might help. They don't leak now, but they had gotten through the previous 50+ years without leaking, so the fact that they haven't leaked yet tells us nothing. Vacseal is expensive stuff, but cheap compared to the cost of a good 15GP22.

Phil Nelson

I may be off base here, but I believe that the very tiny leaks that we are trying to stop on CRTs are much too small for a liquid like vacseal to be "sucked into". I look at it as a dense low-vapor pressure coating that essentially provides a second containment wall, in case the first fails. I have painted it around CRT neck pins, base pins and tip seals as a preventive measure. I have no statistically significant proof that it did any good, but in those small quantities, it is pretty cheap per application.
jr

I may be off base here, but I believe that the very tiny leaks that we are trying to stop on CRTs are much too small for a liquid like vacseal to be "sucked into". I look at it as a dense low-vapor pressure coating that essentially provides a second containment wall, in case the first fails. I have painted it around CRT neck pins, base pins and tip seals as a preventive measure. I have no statistically significant proof that it did any good, but in those small quantities, it is pretty cheap per application.
jr

You're not off base. But, Vacseal is intended for small leaks. If the leak is too large it gets sucked in too much and doesn't plug the hole. In smaller leaks it thickens as the solvent evaporates and gets too thick to pass further.

Vacseal is intended to be cured at temperatures above 200C. It cures below that temperature, but not as well. The very property that makes it a good sealant prevents the solvent from evaporating rapidly once a skin has formed. Heat helps.

Unopened bottles have a shelf life of 3yrs. Cans, 3 months. I've had opened bottles that refused to cure even with heat. I suspect it cures much the way shellac does, and doesn't.

The datasheet says that the surface will always seem a little sticky so don't worry about that.

John

OK So who was the winner? Only one bidder took it for 5K.

Yep, first bid at 45 seconds left then he hit it with another bid in the last 5 seconds to block any other potential last minute bids.

Hes fairly local so thats nice.

Not me...

Charles

Not me either. I was tempted, but didn't feel right dragging it across country.

John

Well, I wish I could say that it was me. I was tempted as well but don't have that kind of money and as mentioned above, don't have the means to cart it for all of those miles. It sure is a piece of history. And I would guess considering what it is, it was worth that money.

Let's hope the new owner surfaces and that we find out the status of the CRT. Sure would be nice if it works! That chassis would be a candidate for a very slow restoration with the stuffing of original capacitors. Wadda ya think?