Hey guys, I was watching tv yeasterday and today. I have been laid up from a nasty black widow spider bite to the finger. Im on all sorts of drugs now for the swelling... Well I noticed while watching the set the last few days, when a scene comes on with alot of white or bright contrasting colors, the whites go lime green, when the scene changes, the color neutralizes again to pure white. I have tried everything in the service menus so far to no avail. The drives to the raster (black background seems to stay pure grey when this happens, so it leads me to believe the CRT is ok. If this were a vintage set, normally I would check resistors in the demod circuits.

And no... The vicodin is not affecting my vision, my wife conformed the whites going lime green as well.

Any ideas?
Thanks

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when this was happening on my old TV it was some capacitors dieing in the power supply, but I was seeing a magenta tint come with brightness. Never bothered to fix it since it was just a cheap 15" screen, known fault because of the era of lousy capacitors.

Hey guys, I was watching tv yeasterday and today. I have been laid up from a nasty black widow spider bite to the finger. Im on all sorts of drugs now for the swelling... Well I noticed while watching the set the last few days, when a scene comes on with alot of white or bright contrasting colors, the whites go lime green, when the scene changes, the color neutralizes again to pure white. I have tried everything in the service menus so far to no avail. The drives to the raster (black background seems to stay pure grey when this happens, so it leads me to believe the CRT is ok. If this were a vintage set, normally I would check resistors in the demod circuits.

And no... The vicodin is not affecting my vision, my wife conformed the whites going lime green as well.

Any ideas?
Thanks

I hate to be pessimistic, but that sounds like a CRT weakening problem.

I don't know the book procedure on that set, but it might be a good idea to do a complete G2 + white balance setup from scratch. It may tell you to scope the DC voltage peak to peak to set the cutoff, although that may not be necessary (never done one). Mitsubishi projection sets from the 80s and 90s were very finicky about that, and if you didn't do it, you could see overdriven CRTs ruined in a few months.

Although it's possible that it's some kind of weird drive problem, I'd try not to put too many eggs in that basket. Try turning the contrast way down during the scenes that cause that, and see if it doesn't happen. If not, then it's 99% the tube at fault (in my personal experience). The good news is, CL is flooded with 40" Sony tube sets; in the $100-$200 range. I'd get a spare!

Charles

Yeah, im thinking that i might find another if this ones going south.. On the other hand, if anyone wants to copy thier setting down for the 2170P-1 RDRV,BDRV,GDRV, RCUT,BCUT,GCUT, RDOF,BDOF,GDOF,RCOF,BCOF,GCOF and I will compare to my settings. These sets settings should have been really close from the factory. I would really appreciate it.

I have a feeling that the guy messed with the settings in the tv, he seemed a bit tech savvy, He had mentioned to me that he "calibrated" the picture to look excellent when watching movies through HDMI.
"Calibrated" might be more in depth then I wished it to be.

Does anyone have a printout of the pin configuration on the CRT for this set? Im curious to know which three are the G2 and voltages I should be metering.
The more in depth in the service menus I get the more irt seems that they have been tampered with, for instance, my KV-36XBR450's R,G,BCOF and R,G,BDOF were set around 30 or so, The KV-40XBR800's were tweaked all the way up to 63. It looks as if maybe thy should have been set in the midrange position.

Does anyone have a printout of the pin configuration on the CRT for this set? Im curious to know which three are the G2 and voltages I should be metering.
The more in depth in the service menus I get the more irt seems that they have been tampered with, for instance, my KV-36XBR450's R,G,BCOF and R,G,BDOF were set around 30 or so, The KV-40XBR800's were tweaked all the way up to 63. It looks as if maybe thy should have been set in the midrange position.
That's one manual I don't have...

Here's where my XBR800 is set:

R DR=32
G DR=26
B DR=25

R CUT=32
G CUT=23
B CUT=32

R COF=31
G COF=37
B COF=63

Not sure if this will be anywhere close to what yours should be, but by logic, it looks like 32 might be a baseline. Only a guess on that ;)

Charles

hey thanks Charles, when I get home later I will check these to my settings, i can already say they are way different from mine.

On another note off topic, I just ran across something cool! On my KV-3000R I just found out that it has a sleep timer. Although the orig remote does not have a sleep button, nor does the front of the set. I pionted the XBR800's remote at the 3000 and the muting led turned on. Sure enough after an hour, the set turned off. Cool!

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On another note off topic, I just ran across something cool! On my KV-3000R I just found out that it has a sleep timer. Although the orig remote does not have a sleep button, nor does the front of the set. I pionted the XBR800's remote at the 3000 and the muting led turned on. Sure enough after an hour, the set turned off. Cool!
The great Sony secret... I discovered that myself many years ago, with a KX-2501. I never figured out why the sleep button was omitted, but all Sony TVs with infrared remote, evidently had sleep. Only the smaller TVs' remotes had the button to activate it, though. Maybe they figured nobody'd have a KV-3000 in a bedroom? Well, I did. When I got mine new (the one that had sat at Adray's Dept Store unsold for 5 years), I put it in my bedroom, UPSTAIRS.

Just to remind; I do have a spare 40XBR800 here (no chassis)... Tube has excellent emission, but a banged shadow mask. It's the one I've been promising to blast with a 12-ga shotgun for a youtube video, but haven't done it yet. If you want to try your chassis in it to double-confirm any diagnosis of the CRT, you're welcome to do that if you're in the area some time.

Charles

looks like the offset settings Charles gave me worked! Somehow I must have been overdriving the green gun. I don't see any balance drift after i cutoff everything halfway. Of course the picture was not as vivid, but still looks great.
One question although for Charles, what does your set have for the R G and B DOF ?
those wwere cranked to 63 as well on mg set.