I recently picked up a Zenith console from about '69 or '70 that I would like to have as a daily use TV. I have a '67 RCA that I retired from use a couple years ago because it was in need of a tune up, and from talking to another local collector, I understand that the flybacks tend to like to overheat and replacements are near impossible to find. I wanted something that I didn't have to worry about if I used it daily.

So now I have the Zenith. I understand that the 23" tube in this set was used for sevaral more years... so the thought had crossed my mind of finding a newer chassis to install in the set. The origional chassis is tube type or tubes with a few transistors, and while I love tube sets, it might be nice to have something newer for daily use, and maybe something with a remote and A/V inputs. I'm told that the 23" crt was later phased out in favor of an inline crt, but honestly I'm not familar enough with the terminoligy to know what the difference is. Would an inline CRT/chassis fit my set? So, I guess what I'm asking is:

-Would there be any origional parts, such as the flyback, that would be rare enough on this chassis that I may wish to avoid keeping it for daily use? Anything that would make it more trouble prone?

-Would using a newer chassis be a good idea? I'm not worried as much about controls being mounted differently, just the electronics.

-If I do switch chassis, what years/models/types should I look for? Can I mix and match pieces from newer models (add a space command remote, for example)?

Finally, before I get any flames, I do intend to keep all origional parts and would only be doing this swap to preserve the origional parts and to keep the set as trouble free as possible.

Some of the later hybrids used varistors in the high voltage regulator circuit that liked to break in half. I don't know how rare they are but these sets loved em. Also, replace the red rectangular rectifier on the convergence board if it hasn't been changed. It'll burn up and kill one of the blue convergence controls. Check horizontal current or it'll devour damper tubes.
I don't remember these eating flybacks or yokes unless something (horizontal centering control) burned up on the flyback board and caused it. If the set has a focus divider, mount it away from the chassis to prevent it from trying to break down and arc to the chassis.
Tuner RF amp tubes were prone to failure.
An RF modulator and a video stabilizer is the best bet for DVD and VCR inputs. Otherwise, those aggravating lines (dvd) and flag-waving (vcr) can occur.
I can't think of too much more. These were reliable sets:thmbsp:
The space command can be a bit of a challange, but that is another post (coming later):scratch2:

Just my opinion; but, I'd keep the tube type Zenith in it's original condition. There are plenty of solid state Zenith Chromacolor and Chromacolor II consoles out there that will serve you well. If you fix the Zenith tube set, it will give you a good picture and it will likely last for a long time. I think the reason these Zenith's hold up so well is because they were built on a steel (no pc-boards) chassis. The RCA's had a great picture as well; but, were built on PC boards and the extreme heat was murder on the circuit boards. Back in the '90's, the Zenith tube sets that I brought home usually only needed minor repairs. The RCA's usually had smoked flybacks and/or brittle PC boards.

As far as 23V CRT's, the last 23V delta gun based Zenith TV was the Chromacolor II "K" line from '79. After that, Zenith made an inline gun 23V tube for it's system 3 chassis.

As far as solid state goes, the Zenith horizontal chassis sets from the "C", "D", and "E" model lines are built like a tank. The chassis is a steel chassis that looks like a tube chassis, only it has transistors and modules on it instead of tubes. These were made from around '71-'74. Zenith also made some hybrid sets that only used 4 tubes in the sweep circuit during the same time period. These were still good sets, cost less than the 100% solid state version, and were geared for the folks that didn't want to spend the extra $ for the SS version. A friend of mine said that when he bought a Zenith console around '73, they had two identical looking models except one model was all SS and was $100 higher than the hybrid model. He said the pictures were identical and for $100 difference, he could wait 30 seconds for the picture to come on.

After that, they came out with the solid state vertical CCII chassis. This is still a metal chassis with much handwiring, except for the plug in modules. These were around from '74-'79 and were used in "E", "F", "G", "H", "J", and "K" model lines. The only thing you want to watch with these is that "E" and "F" line models originally used a white safety capacitor in the horizontal sweep circuit that would open, causing the HV to skyrocket and blow the neck off the CRT as well as ruin other parts. I'm sure that 98% of these sets have already been converted to the orange drop cap; but, best to look just to make sure.

All of the above mentioned consoles up to this point used delta gun CRT's and they rarely ever go bad. There were a few CCII 13", 17", and 19" portables that used an inline CRT.

Starting around '78, Zenith introduced the System 3 chassis. This is when the metal chassis went away and inline CRT's started to be used. These sets had a good picture when working; but, are not as reliable as the older sets and can be a pain to troubleshoot. Also, the CRT's didn't hold up as well in these sets.

If you want A/V jacks, you'll either have to get an RF modulator or find a newer set. I don't think Zenith started using A/V jacks until the mid '80's. By that time, Zenith sets really weren't made any better than anything else and they are just not that impressive to me. And, by the '90's, Zenith really went to crap. Bad CRT's left and right in fairly new sets were too common. Also, the CRT's would short and burn up the power supply.

Zenith did have space command remote sets as far back as the late '50's; but, the remotes remained of the ultrasonic type until around '81. Up until the mid '70's, the tuners were motorized. In the mid '70's, Zenith came out with a "silent" varactor tuner for their CCII sets. They didn't come out with OSD and digital cable ready tuners until around '79 with the System 3 sets. Some Zenith remote sets from the CCII and early System 3 era had a "Zoom" feature on the remote that would enlarge the picture on the screen. Some of the early '80's Zenith's, even had a built in "space phone".

Wow, thanks for all the information! Sounds like the origional chassis is the best starting point then. Sounds like in the solid state world, I want to avoid a System 3 chassis, and any "C" through"K" chassis would at least use the same picture tube, with some better than others. As far as the space command, I think that's not a project for the near future, but I'll keep my eyes open for another set that might have parts I could use. Zenith26kc20: So what is the video stabilizer that you use? I haven't come across one yet. Thanks for all the tips, I've got a little learning curve on this set I suppose :)

I'll tell you how you can tell the difference between a System 3 and a Chromacolor chassis, if it does not say "Chromacolor" or "system 3" on the front. All pre-system 3 sets use an interlocked power cord on the cabinet back. All the System 3 sets have the AC cord going straight into the back with no interlock. There were some late CCII sets from late '79 that only said "Zenith" on the control panel.

The first generation system 3's were probably the best of the series. They used a power transformer and a 9-153 sweep module.

The second S3 used the 9-160 sweep module and had no transformer.

Picking up where I left off, the second generation S3's that used the 9-160 module were known for loose connections and flybacks that would burn up. These were made from around '79-'82.

The third generation S3's used a 9-181 main module and a 9-186 sweep module. This series is my least favorite and a "dead set" condition can be quite a troubleshooting experience. These were around from around '82-'86.

There were also the "advanced system 3's" as well as the "digital system 3's" of the late '80's. Don't get me started on those digital sets. Just take my word that they were a PITA and stay away from them. A friend gave me his 31" Digital system 3 console that he gave $1600 for and I patched it up good enough to give to the SA. The advanced system 3's had things like stereo audio and A/V jacks.

I think collector interest pretty much ends after the CCII chassis. There is some interest in the early S3 sets; but, not much at this time. I have an '84 13" that works and a 19" that has vertical problems. Both use what I call the third generation S3. Everything else I own is CCII and one beat up 4 tube hybrid 19" from '74.

Thanks again for the pointers. Something I didn't mention initally is that at some point I'm going to want to replace the picture tube on mine. It's working, but has a scratch on the face of it unfortunatly. I'll just keep my eyes open for a ChromacolorII set, if I find one in working condition I may think about using the chassis (or at least keeping it as a backup) but in the mean time I'm going to try to repair the one I have. I'm familar with radios but have never worked on a TV, so there may be a new thread on here about that at some point :)

Picking up where I left off, the second generation S3's that used the 9-160 module were known for loose connections and flybacks that would burn up. These were made from around '79-'82.

The third generation S3's used a 9-181 main module and a 9-186 sweep module. This series is my least favorite and a "dead set" condition can be quite a troubleshooting experience. These were around from around '82-'86.

There were also the "advanced system 3's" as well as the "digital system 3's" of the late '80's. Don't get me started on those digital sets. Just take my word that they were a PITA and stay away from them. A friend gave me his 31" Digital system 3 console that he gave $1600 for and I patched it up good enough to give to the SA. The advanced system 3's had things like stereo audio and A/V jacks.

I think collector interest pretty much ends after the CCII chassis. There is some interest in the early S3 sets; but, not much at this time. I have an '84 13" that works and a 19" that has vertical problems. Both use what I call the third generation S3. Everything else I own is CCII and one beat up 4 tube hybrid 19" from '74.

I have one of those 3rd generation sets, every once in a while, the picture gets a red cast to it then it flicks out. It does that every several month for a little while and then it is good for a long while. It was made in 1982, been in use since we bought it in early 1983.

There's a resistor pack in the video output circuit, on the main module, that can develop loose connections and cause that problem. Also, check the soldering on the interconnect cable between the main module and CRT socket module.

I've replaced a lot of those 9-181 and 9-186 modules. Back in the early-to-mid '90's, I could get them for around $50 each. Back then, it wasn't so bad to spend $50 on a module when you could sell the set for $100-$125. Then, the prices started going up and up and the value of the TV's kept going down, down, down. About 8 years ago, I think those modules were over $100 each. You probably can't even get them now. I remember getting one of those sets that would hiss, groan, and grunt like it wanted to come to life. All voltages were low. I finally chased the problem down to a dead shorted electrolytic cap inside the electronic tuning module. It was something like a 1000uf, 25V. There is also a little cap on the start-up board that will cause a dead set.

Sometimes, I've found both the main and sweep modules to be bad. If you're not careful, one module can fail and take out the other one. When in doubt, I just changed both boards. And, I was usually in doubt more than I was certain on those models.

The 9-160 based sets were about as bad. I remember one non-remote, cable ready System 3 console that was given to me that was dead. Quickly found a blown fuse and a shorted HOT. Replaced all that and resoldered some loose connections and it would try to come to life. Upon digging deeper, I replaced a bunch of other blown parts on the 9-160. When I fired it up that time, the flyback literally fired up! I shut it off quickly before I fried any parts, found a good flyback from a junk board, and fixed the set. It had a nice picture when I was finished; but, it was sure a PITA to get it to that point. It would have been easier to swap the 9-160; but, they were getting high dollar at that point and consoles were getting harder to sell. This was in the late '90's. I believe those 9-160 sets caused a lot of house fires as a result of the flyback catching on fire, which in turn, caught the cabinet on fire.

There's a resistor pack in the video output circuit, on the main module, that can develop loose connections and cause that problem. Also, check the soldering on the interconnect cable between the main module and CRT socket module.

I've replaced a lot of those 9-181 and 9-186 modules. Back in the early-to-mid '90's, I could get them for around $50 each. Back then, it wasn't so bad to spend $50 on a module when you could sell the set for $100-$125. Then, the prices started going up and up and the value of the TV's kept going down, down, down. About 8 years ago, I think those modules were over $100 each. You probably can't even get them now. I remember getting one of those sets that would hiss, groan, and grunt like it wanted to come to life. All voltages were low. I finally chased the problem down to a dead shorted electrolytic cap inside the electronic tuning module. It was something like a 1000uf, 25V. There is also a little cap on the start-up board that will cause a dead set.

Sometimes, I've found both the main and sweep modules to be bad. If you're not careful, one module can fail and take out the other one. When in doubt, I just changed both boards. And, I was usually in doubt more than I was certain on those models.

The 9-160 based sets were about as bad. I remember one non-remote, cable ready System 3 console that was given to me that was dead. Quickly found a blown fuse and a shorted HOT. Replaced all that and resoldered some loose connections and it would try to come to life. Upon digging deeper, I replaced a bunch of other blown parts on the 9-160. When I fired it up that time, the flyback literally fired up! I shut it off quickly before I fried any parts, found a good flyback from a junk board, and fixed the set. It had a nice picture when I was finished; but, it was sure a PITA to get it to that point. It would have been easier to swap the 9-160; but, they were getting high dollar at that point and consoles were getting harder to sell. This was in the late '90's. I believe those 9-160 sets caused a lot of house fires as a result of the flyback catching on fire, which in turn, caught the cabinet on fire.

Yeah, every once in a while, it grunts too so I'll keep the cap in mind. BTW, I think you can still buy reconditioned modules from $100/$125, I do have the site bookmarked. If and when the time comes, I don't care if they are new or reconditioned as long as they work. Mom likes the old console sets, not the flatscreens we have now.

I wish I could find more people around here, like your Mother, who like the console sets. I just tossed a nice looking '91 CTC15x RCA console with stereo sound and several RCA jacks. It had a video problem and I had planned on fixing it; but, I got tired of stepping around it and I knew that no one would buy it even if I fixed it. When the junk man showed up, out of the blue, and wanted to know if I had any junk TV's, I decided to let him have it.

Concerning rebuilt modules. I've gotten several rebuilt ones from the local parts house that were DOA right out of the box. Some of them were Zenith rebuilds and some were from an outfit called "module exchange". I found out that this rebuilder just replaces all the common parts that fail on a particular module and sends it back. If the trouble is something other than what was replaced, it will still not work.

Places like PTS are higher; but, I believe they bench test every module and chassis that they rebuild. I got one bad tuner from PTS and they took care of the problem quickly. The last PTS catalog that I got a few years ago didn't even list any of the older Zenith modules. Everything was for '90's and later sets and some of their prices for a complete chassis module is higher than what the set would be worth.

I wish I could find more people around here, like your Mother, who like the console sets. I just tossed a nice looking '91 CTC15x RCA console with stereo sound and several RCA jacks. It had a video problem and I had planned on fixing it; but, I got tired of stepping around it and I knew that no one would buy it even if I fixed it. When the junk man showed up, out of the blue, and wanted to know if I had any junk TV's, I decided to let him have it.

Concerning rebuilt modules. I've gotten several rebuilt ones from the local parts house that were DOA right out of the box. Some of them were Zenith rebuilds and some were from an outfit called "module exchange". I found out that this rebuilder just replaces all the common parts that fail on a particular module and sends it back. If the trouble is something other than what was replaced, it will still not work.

Places like PTS are higher; but, I believe they bench test every module and chassis that they rebuild. I got one bad tuner from PTS and they took care of the problem quickly. The last PTS catalog that I got a few years ago didn't even list any of the older Zenith modules. Everything was for '90's and later sets and some of their prices for a complete chassis module is higher than what the set would be worth.

Yeah, it is a shame there are no console set, that we know of, anymore. I don't like the flat screens that hand on walls too much. Yeah, they are OK if you want to save space like in a small room or in a camper but for home use, nothing beats the console.

Interesting thread. I have 3 of those transformerless system 3 sets that were curbside finds. All work perfect but the cabinets are beat. Reading this thread I have decided Im going to cut them up with a chain saw and use them for heating wood. I guess ill keep the modules.
As far as the old Zenith, the parts are not that hard to find. Like said check the cathode current. Also the focus rectifier can be an issues sometimes. That should be a good set for you.

Interesting thread. I have 3 of those transformerless system 3 sets that were curbside finds. All work perfect but the cabinets are beat. Reading this thread I have decided Im going to cut them up with a chain saw and use them for heating wood. I guess ill keep the modules.
As far as the old Zenith, the parts are not that hard to find. Like said check the cathode current. Also the focus rectifier can be an issues sometimes. That should be a good set for you.

:nono:Warning! To ensure that the use of wooden tanks to provide television fire! :tears::tears:It may contain chemicals that could be detrimental to you!:yuck: