View Full Version : Hallicrafters T-506 scored


bandersen
11-14-2009, 12:14 AM
I saw newhallone's post about an Admiral 20X122 for $30 up in Michigan. It's about 3 hrs away from me, but that's an awesome price so I contact the seller.

Someone beat me to it :grumpy: but... he has another set for sale. A Hallicrafters T-506. I grabbed a friend to keep me company and drove up to Grand Rapids, MI.
7 hours later, I'm finally back home :drool:

So here she is - pretty good shape. Just one knob missing - anyone have a spare ?
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-01.jpg

Needs a little refinishing, but nothing too bad.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-02.jpg

Nice, original back. Except someone installed a 1/4" jack for an external speaker :mad: At least they did a clean job.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-03.jpg http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-04.jpg

Ugh, more oxidized cadmium plating I think :yuck:
The black knobs have gone all white with oxidation/mold too.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-05.jpg

The chassis seems to be all original and unmolested other than that audio jack.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-06.jpg http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-07.jpg

I popped the CRT in another set. My streak of good 7JP4s continues :thmbsp:
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-08.jpg


Now for the icing on the cake. The seller has a bunch of old radios so I ask if he has any spare tubes for sale.
Yep, I got an 80 and 483 globe for my Sparton 931.
I just need one more 483 and I'm in business :banana:

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/01-09.jpg

Sam Cogley
11-14-2009, 12:42 AM
I had no idea that Hallicrafters made TVs.

That white oxide crap on the brown knobs is easy to clean up - stop at the auto parts store and pick up some cleaner for plastic trim and convertible windows. late 40s/early 50s American Flyer train couplers form that white junk, too - that's where I learned to clean it up.

newhallone
11-14-2009, 01:00 AM
Cool. I knew posting that would help someone out.

Sandy G
11-14-2009, 02:22 AM
Yew DAWG !! Ah HATE Yew...(grin) Seriously, GREAT score !! W/a good 7JP4 like that, way over half the battle's won, I would think...Can't wait to see it up 'n' runnin'...

bandersen
11-14-2009, 06:30 PM
I had no idea that Hallicrafters made TVs.

That white oxide crap on the brown knobs is easy to clean up - stop at the auto parts store and pick up some cleaner for plastic trim and convertible windows. late 40s/early 50s American Flyer train couplers form that white junk, too - that's where I learned to clean it up.

Yep, they made TVs from 1948-1958

http://www.tvhistory.tv/1946-49-HALLICRAFTERS.htm
http://www.tvhistory.tv/1950-59-HALLICRAFTERS.htm

Thanks for the tip about cleaning the knobs.
Bob

Phil Nelson
11-15-2009, 02:26 AM
I had no idea that Hallicrafters made TVs.
I have three Hallis:

http://antiqueradio.org/halli505.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/hallit-67.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/HallicraftersT-54Television.htm

The 505 and T-54 have the same chassis as the 506, only different cabinets. The T-67 is a typical late 1940s 10-inch set, apart from the pushbutton tuner.

Phil

Sam Cogley
11-15-2009, 02:46 AM
Yep, they made TVs from 1948-1958

http://www.tvhistory.tv/1946-49-HALLICRAFTERS.htm
http://www.tvhistory.tv/1950-59-HALLICRAFTERS.htm

Thanks for the tip about cleaning the knobs.
Bob

Even with that stuff, it's going to take a lot of elbow grease to get rid of it, and it will probably come back a time or two, though in lesser concentration. I got to the point where rubbing the crud down with the cleaner, then attacking it with a bristle brush in my Dremel was the only way I could cope with it.

Phil Nelson
11-15-2009, 03:27 AM
Maybe that is one of the dreaded soy plastics that seem to keep breaking down, more or less, no matter what's done.

A couple of days ago, I heard an ocean scientist talking about modern plastic and how water creatures get sick from eating it. He noted that we have known how to make more degradable soy-based plastic since the 1930s.

"Damn straight," I said, "and I've got the rotting radio knobs in my workshop to prove it!" :)

Your knobs still have the original shape. As a last resort, if they continue to deteriorate, you could use one to make a model and then cast acrylic repros.

Phil

Sandy G
11-15-2009, 06:25 AM
Thinking out loud here-Do you have access to one of those ultrasonic jewelry cleaning gizmotrons ? That MIGHT be what the doctor ordered... Again, just a thought...

Charlie
11-15-2009, 11:26 AM
That's great... double win with set and tubes! That's a nice H-C! That chassis sure looks easy to rebuild!

Older Motorola knobs are bad about that funky white film as well. You get them cleaned up real good with soapy water and a toothbrush... and a few months later, they need it again!

I wonder... after getting them clean real good, perhaps coating them with some clear spray enamel paint would preserve them. I would try on one of the rear knobs first and see how they look several months later.

Sam Cogley
11-15-2009, 11:28 AM
With the right chemical cleaner, that stuff should stop forming eventually.

bandersen
11-15-2009, 01:17 PM
I cleaned up one of them using a toothbrush and lots of elbow grease. They're actually in really good condition under that white film.

With the right chemical cleaner, that stuff should stop forming eventually.

That's what I'm hoping. That or a clear coat like Charlie suggested.

Sam Cogley
11-15-2009, 03:54 PM
If you have a spare knob, try the clear coat. I'd be interested in the results, but I fear that the crap would form under it.

This isn't the type of crumbling, decaying mess that some plastics become. In my experience, the original plastic is just as strong as ever under that nasty waxy oxide.

Reece
11-15-2009, 06:17 PM
I believe this stuff keeps exuding from the plastic. I have some radio knobs that do that and have a sickening stink like rancid butter or something. Don't think there's any permanent cure, just cleaning as necessary. And holding your nose.

bandersen
11-15-2009, 10:33 PM
I believe this stuff keeps exuding from the plastic. I have some radio knobs that do that and have a sickening stink like rancid butter or something. Don't think there's any permanent cure, just cleaning as necessary. And holding your nose.

I'd say closer to vomit :puke: I have a couple boxes with 100s of knobs in each. It's pretty nasty when I need to go searching in them.

Once I get them all cleaned up, I going to try some simple treatments like Novus #1 and furniture polish. I'm a little leary of using something with a solvent like lacquer has cause it might melt the plastic surface.

Charlie
11-15-2009, 10:53 PM
Might be worth experimenting with some of the nasty knobs in those boxes you mention... find some with the film and see how they react to different treatments.

bandersen
11-15-2009, 11:00 PM
I have three Hallis:

http://antiqueradio.org/halli505.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/hallit-67.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/HallicraftersT-54Television.htm

The 505 and T-54 have the same chassis as the 506, only different cabinets. The T-67 is a typical late 1940s 10-inch set, apart from the pushbutton tuner.

Phil

Cool. Seems like you have (or are in the process of creating) a webpage for every set I've picked up lately :)

Anyone have a schematic for it ? I can only find the early version with 6SH7 tubes. This is the later chassis with 6AU6s.

Thanks!

bandersen
11-15-2009, 11:06 PM
Might be worth experimenting with some of the nasty knobs in those boxes you mention... find some with the film and see how they react to different treatments.

Sure, great idea. I'll hold my nose and do some digging :D

Phil Nelson
11-16-2009, 07:45 AM
I have the Riders and Sams for the 505/T-54. Both show the 6SH7 version.

If I'm remembering correctly, and these knobs are made of the same stuff, the material is breaking down internally, not being attacked by some evil mildew from the outside. That doesn't necessarily mean that sealing would be useless. Perhaps if you cleaned the knob and dried it really well, sealing it from moisture and oxygen would keep things stable for a long time.

People try all kinds of tricks to keep Predicta screen covers from breaking down. I polished mine with Novus #2 about 10 years ago, and it still looks the same. Not being a chemist, I have no idea whether these knobs are made of the same material.

My 505 project turned out fairly well, so I'm eager to redo the T-54, but there's a color set ahead of it in the queue.

Phil

Sandy G
11-16-2009, 08:16 AM
I'm pretty sure nobody nearly 65 years ago ever imagined these rather slapdash, crude, feeble things would be coveted, prized possessions someday...Lots of people thought "Tell-A-Vision' was a passing fad then. And Hallicrafters really had more than they could say grace over, trying to meet demand for their radios...Altho they tried harder than most independents did to make TV a go...And they had a wealth of engineering background to draw upon, as well. And who could possibly have forseen in '46 that the mighty US consumer electronics industry had about 20, 25 years left to live, courtesy of a shattered, defeated nation, and an unremarkable invention made of sand & a couple wires ?

peverett
11-16-2009, 09:32 AM
The US electronics industry is not in near as much trouble as many posters on this board seem to think. True, electronics manufacturing is worldwide now, but there is plenty going on in the US.

Texas Instruments is building a new IC fabrication plant in Dallas, IBM and the AMD Spinoff, Global Foundries have and are building IC fabrication plants in New York. Intel has many IC fabrication plants in the US. In addition to these other IC companies have fabrication plants here.

In addition to the above, many of the ICs used in consumer electronics today are designed in the US. Some of these are manufactured overseas, but the design work was done here.

The next time you purchase a consumer electronics item(or other item-such as an automobile) manufactured overseas, remember that a US designed/manufactured IC is probably included.

electronjohn
11-16-2009, 09:47 AM
My guess is that Funky Knob Smell is caused by breakdown of urea in the plastic. I'm not a chemist...just play one on TV.

Sam Cogley
11-16-2009, 01:02 PM
I will say that I've never noticed a weird smell from any plastics I've encountered with that white waxy residue. The smelly knobs might have a different internal chemistry with which I am not familiar.

bandersen
11-16-2009, 04:30 PM
I've noticed it mostly on late 40s knobs. It's not really a strong smell. I first noticed it when I opened a small box of knobs that had been sealed for many years.

I've been studying that 505 schematic and it does seem pretty close to my sets other than the 6SH7 tubes. Weird design. Especially the power supply and HV portions.

Here are links to a schematic I scanned from Most Often Needed Television Servicing Information 1948 edition.

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/Hallicrafters%20505%20sch-01.jpg
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/hallicrafters%20t506/Hallicrafters%20505%20sch-02.jpg

Phil - any concern about the series wired 7JP4 filament?

Phil Nelson
11-16-2009, 05:04 PM
concern about the series wired 7JP4 filament?
Some folks install a little filament transformer to supply the CRT and wire a power resistor to take its place in the filament string. I did that for one of my series sets (don't recall which, offhand). I bought a transformer for my Pilot TV-37 but haven't put it in yet. It is a Triad F-13X.

Phil

bandersen
11-16-2009, 05:18 PM
Some folks install a little filament transformer to supply the CRT and wire a power resistor to take its place in the filament string. I did that for one of my series sets (don't recall which, offhand). I bought a transformer for my Pilot TV-37 but haven't put it in yet. It is a Triad F-13X.

Phil

Thanks Phil.

Sounds like a good idea - there's plenty of room to add one in.

Can you explain that crazy power supply? A 25Z6, 6X5 and a selenium rectifier!

Did you replace it with silicon? If you did, any change to the18 ohm resister in series with it?

Thanks again
Bob

Reece
11-16-2009, 06:13 PM
In connection with that filament transformer for the CRT it would be a good idea to give the heater a soft start with something like a CL-90 inrush current limiter. This in series with the transformer primary has 120 ohms resistance at startup, and resistance drops gradually to about 7 ohms as the thermistor heats up, so the heater comes on gradually over part of a minute, helping preserve the life of a rare picture jug.

Phil Nelson
11-16-2009, 06:49 PM
Yes, three rectifiers and seven electrolytics if I'm counting right. My National TV-7W has something similar, with a 25Z6 identified as a rectifier/voltage doubler and 6X5GT as a voltage tripler. Maybe something like that is going on here, although I haven't looked closely at either schematic.

A 6X5 rectifier is notorious in radio circles for developing a heater to cathode short. Various remedies are used, from installing a fuse to replacing it entirely. An Internet search may uncover some of those discussions. Perhaps the risk is negligible in a series string set, which has no power transformer to fry.

I'm a fan of the CL-90 ever since I put one in an RCA color set. Cheap and effective, just understand that it may get hot.

When I did my 505, I probably would have replaced the selenium rectifier with a 1N4007 diode and not changed anything else. Some people add more resistance in series with the new diode.

Phil

bandersen
11-16-2009, 07:21 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I think I have a few 6X5s in my stash - hopefully one is good.

I'll add some CL-90s to my shopping list :)

batterymaker
11-17-2009, 07:43 AM
My one TV in my collection is a T-54.

After the recapping, the first image I got on it was....Austin Powers....:D

bandersen
11-19-2009, 11:28 AM
There's an Airline up on you know where (http://cgi.ebay.com/1950-AIRLINE-TUBE-TELEVISION-MODEL-84HA-3002A-B_W0QQitemZ360209008786QQcategoryZ3638QQcmdZViewIt em) that looks almost identical. I guess Airline rebranded the Hallicrafters.

http://thmb.inkfrog.com/thumbn/bagger51/DSC06145.JPG=600

Phil Nelson
11-19-2009, 03:15 PM
The Dachis Hallicrafters book says that Sears and Monkey Wards rebranded this set. Delco rings a faint bell, too.

Phil

bandersen
04-09-2010, 11:42 AM
I decided to take a whack at this set while I wait for an order of radio parts to arrive. Thanks to Phil's site, I have a good idea what's involved.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4505772268_a99084eeef_b.jpg

Plenty of nasty old caps to replace.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4505772458_cca52fe010_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4505773058_808f9e8ee6_b.jpg

I decided to try something new and restuff the paper caps. They come apart much easier than I expected - just a few seconds under a heat gun.
Then, I wrapped the new caps in some paper to make a tight fit.
Next, a little hot glue to hold them together. Finally, I reused the old wax plugs to reseal the end.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4505773418_821bb86d5d.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4505777632_f8969c95b8.jpg

Not too bad, but it's not much fun either. Now, I'll need to really keep track of which caps have been replaced!


Just one problem so far - it's the HV caps.

First, I have a 0.03 and a 0.005 here while the schematic calls for two 0.05 ?!? They look like the originals though (two in the upper-left) :scratch2: Can anyone confirm these values ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4505157075_7ec8443472_b.jpg

Second, I have a couple 0.00047 (AKA 470pF) for the horizontal. Can I use 0.001 instead ? That's the smallest ASC HV cap I've been able to find.

jeyurkon
04-09-2010, 01:02 PM
Nice job of restuffing! The wax they used to seal the ends seems to have a much higher melting point than the wax they dipped them in.

John

bandersen
04-09-2010, 03:00 PM
Thanks. Right, the sealing wax meted off right away and the end plugs were more or less intact. I crushed those end caps up and remelted the dust into the ends. I think it will be a lot easier to leaved them as intact as possible and just reflow the plugs over the new caps.

ChrisW6ATV
04-09-2010, 06:28 PM
Nice job on the caps. Decades from now, someone is going to own your set and say "How could those old wax caps still be good? They test like new!" :)

bkharris
04-09-2010, 07:59 PM
Looking at the schematic for your Hallicrafters 506 6au6 type late chassis those two vert sweep coupling caps should be .03 at 6000v
However I am not certain that the late chassis schematic is the exact chassis you have.

jr_tech
04-09-2010, 08:06 PM
Nice job on the caps. Decades from now, someone is going to own your set and say "How could those old wax caps still be good? They test like new!" :)

Or somebody might look under the chassis and say "man, look at all those old wax-covered paper caps, I'm going to replace every one of them before I even think about turning this set on." :tears:

jr

Ps I have substituted .001s for .00047s for horiz output coupling an electrostatic set before with no problems.

bandersen
04-09-2010, 08:30 PM
Or somebody might look under the chassis and say "man, look at all those old wax-covered paper caps, I'm going to replace every one of them before I even think about turning this set on." :tears:

jr

Ps I have substituted .001s for .00047s for horiz output coupling an electrostatic set before with no problems.

I suppose I could leave a note inside the set ;)

Looking at the schematic for your Hallicrafters 506 6au6 type late chassis those two vert sweep coupling caps should be .03 at 6000v
However I am not certain that the late chassis schematic is the exact chassis you have.

Interesting. Any idea how the chassis run can be determined ?

bandersen
04-09-2010, 10:06 PM
I think I may have solved the little mystery with the vertical coupling caps. I discovered that the mounting band on the 0.005 has been cut and soldered back together. I bet it's a replacement (and a poor one at that).

bandersen
04-14-2010, 11:17 PM
I managed to gut the old electrolytics. I think I can salvage the old tubes and some of the wax. The tar filled one was really nasty :yuck:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2749/4521989563_2d29f47e73_b.jpg

Also, the new parts have arrived. I chose carbon comp. resistors to retain the original look. I couldn't find 0.03uF 6000v caps so went with 0.022uF. I think they'll be close enough.

I finally got a high wattage gun too. I hope it works well on chassis connections.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4522622144_88be54fba6_b.jpg

Sandy G
04-15-2010, 04:21 AM
Eeeeuwww, what a nasty Meckin' Fess...(grin)

cwmoser
04-15-2010, 05:57 AM
Nice job on the caps. Decades from now, someone is going to own your set and say "How could those old wax caps still be good? They test like new!" :)

I admire your attention to authenticity. Really impressive. I've thought about re-stuffing capacitors but when I do I have this premonition that when I die and my estate is auctioned off to the highest bidder, in box lots and bags full of course, that my radios are bought by other collectors who will be conscientious and pull the chassis and note "hmm, never been recapped" and begin recapping the sucker without even powering up the set :-)

Put a note inside your cabinet telling what you did.

Carl

bandersen
04-16-2010, 09:57 PM
It wasn't much fun, but it's done :)

I was able to reuse 3 of the old tubes, but the tar filled one was just too nasty. So I fabricated one from scratch.
Luckily, I had an old gift wrapping paper tube that was exactly the same diameter.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4526783774_78632f97f1_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4526783972_2cda087ecb_b.jpg

I reused the old wax to seal them.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4526784164_52fcac8e7c_b.jpg

I applied some yellow ochre acrylic paint and created a water slide decal.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4526153233_403bd72b5d_b.jpg

Here's the final product.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4526784786_273aa9beb2_b.jpg

Restuffing an old tube. I made a point of using the same colored wire so the tube legend is correct.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4526779767_7f88e8ddaa_b.jpg

All four are finally done! I think the rest of the set will go fast now.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4527408068_83355faec0_b.jpg

Phil Nelson
04-17-2010, 12:24 PM
Well, you are a saint to lavish such attention on a lowly Halli. To make the disguise really convincing, now you can roll the new cap in that cookie sheet of old melted wax & tar :)

Phil Nelson

Reece
04-17-2010, 01:13 PM
Excellent beautiful job on the caps, but I guess there's no pizza tonight.

bandersen
04-17-2010, 02:08 PM
Excellent beautiful job on the caps, but I guess there's no pizza tonight.

Thanks. I picked up a new cookie sheet - pizza is good to go :)

Well, you are a saint to lavish such attention on a lowly Halli. To make the disguise really convincing, now you can roll the new cap in that cookie sheet of old melted wax & tar :)

Phil Nelson

I actually was planning on coating it with some old wax but couldn't think of any easy way to do it :scratch2: Other than putting that cookie sheet in the oven, melting it all and rolling it as you suggested that is. That would be nasty though - all the wax and tar would mix together.

bandersen
04-20-2010, 05:17 PM
I've got a little system down for restuffing these old paper caps. It's kinda fun to read the old labels. These were all made in my hometown of Chicago by companies long gone such as:

Ajax Condenser Co., Inc.
American Condenser Co.
Chicago Condenser Corp.
Gudeman Co.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4539232518_a9cdd9df44_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2769/4539232732_7bf0281c36_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4538601141_8f1ecbb3ce_b.jpg

Now for the HV cage. Phil's site (http://www.antiqueradio.org/halli505.htm) has proven invaluable.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4538601425_2371e23191_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4539233606_24e2cf43a9_b.jpg

I'm not restuffing these caps. If anyone ever digs down into this box, so be it.
I didn't have a 120K 1W on hand so used a 100K and 20K in series.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4538602213_34f9d45d87_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4538602575_8d910953a1_b.jpg

I found one odd thing. The schematic shows two parallel 500pF filter caps as does Phil's restoration. While mine has a single 0.001uF on the opposite side of the filament :scratch2:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4538602945_bbe533451d_b.jpg

bandersen
04-22-2010, 03:47 PM
I've finished the last batch of caps!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4543616193_6b66e0474d.jpg

First up, I made a replica tube for the missing 0.3 MFD 6 kv cap.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4543616453_b4169ec46d.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4544248630_db0222f728.jpg

The old replacement 0.005 cap is in the foreground. I wonder how well that actually worked ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4543616939_c643bfcf2b_b.jpg

I switched over to hot glue for plugging up the ends. Much easier than reusing the old wax. Only downside is that it hardens to milky white.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2510/4543618093_0b7a8cb2c9_b.jpg

A little paint took care of that.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4544250550_20f2339bd7_b.jpg

I'm not sure how good an insulator hot glue is so I made a dam to keep it out of the body of the tubes. A hole punch is the exact inner diameter.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4544249194_d4baa405b4_b.jpg


Time to put them all back in :sigh:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4543617689_bb348bd501_b.jpg


The aftermath :yuck:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4543618939_69b8aca351_b.jpg

GuyIncognito
04-22-2010, 05:53 PM
On occasions when I restuff caps, I like to use hot glue to seal the capacitor tube ends; it's less bothersome than remelting the cruddy old wax, and is easier to remove (for future restorations).

I used to use a brown Sharpie to color the ends, but I finally found these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200394260688#ht_2283wt_982

The color is fairly authentic--it's far better than a brown Sharpie, anyway!

Other colors are offered, but dark brown is good enough for the likes of me.

A word of warning--there's another type of brown glue stick available for attaching hair extensions, but they are made of an unsuitable material...make sure, if you buy tinted ones, that you're getting regular old vinyl gluesticks.

If you really want to go all out, dip the whole assembly in new, freshly melted bees' wax--the resulting rebuilt cap is pretty much indistinguishable from an "original" one, but has the advantage of looking new (which is to say period, but new) and being clean.

bandersen
04-22-2010, 06:18 PM
Thanks - I had no idea colored glue sticks existed! What a timesaver :yes:

Any tips for dipping ? Do you melt a big pot of beeswax ? I do have a block, but it smells pretty strongly of honey.

GuyIncognito
04-22-2010, 06:39 PM
I think it's possible to get bees' wax in various stages of refinement, but I've used the stuff that smells like honey, and it looks authentic.

You should never directly melt the wax in a pan, since it can flash on you. What I do is use a sort of double-boiler arrangement: I put a small glass jar of wax in a shallow pan of boiling water.

Dipping requires practice, but the wax is pretty forgiving; it will come off fairly easily for another pass, or you can put it back in the heated wax for a bit, and the coating will melt off.

Expect drips, runs, areas that are a little more opaque than others, etc.--you know, like the "real" thing!:D

The bees' wax has the added advantage of obscuring the hot glue plug, which goes a long way in disguising the fact that it actually is hot glue.

jeyurkon
04-22-2010, 08:29 PM
Nice job on the replica tube for the cap! :yes: Is that a water slide decal?

I've used the vinyl hot-glue without any problems. But I think the dams you made are a good idea. I worry about the heat of the glue damaging the capacitors. I think polyester film caps are o.k., but polystyrene or polypropylene might melt. I think the hot-glue melts at a higher temperature than the wax.

John

bandersen
04-22-2010, 09:12 PM
Nice job on the replica tube for the cap! :yes: Is that a water slide decal?

I've used the vinyl hot-glue without any problems. But I think the dams you made are a good idea. I worry about the heat of the glue damaging the capacitors. I think polyester film caps are o.k., but polystyrene or polypropylene might melt. I think the hot-glue melts at a higher temperature than the wax.

John

Thanks. Yes, it's a water slide decal using the 'Century Gothic' font.

Hmm, I never considered the heat issue. I was more concerned about the leakage and voltage breakdown of the glue. Perhaps it merits a little experimenting :scratch2:

Glenz75
04-22-2010, 10:18 PM
I've been following this thread from the first post, you must have the 'patience of a saint' in doing all this and your eye for detail is pretty impressive, those new old caps would fool me if I didn't know they were replicas! :yes:

G.

bandersen
04-22-2010, 11:19 PM
Thanks. I grew up building model airplane, cars trains, etc. and I really enjoy this stage of a restoration.
Part of my motivation to restuff was to hone my skills for upcoming projects. The other part was just to try something new :)

I have to give a lot of credit to this article by Paul Shinn (http://www.radioatticarchives.com/features/shinn_restuffing-wax-paper-caps.htm).

I've made some good progress today and I plan on firing it up tomorrow night :D
Keep your fingers crossed.

bandersen
04-23-2010, 08:35 PM
I'm done recapping except for the HV area.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4546541399_c104aaf6cb_b.jpg

Time to remount the HV oscillator using Phil's tips of using long wire extensions.
The 1B3 was weak so I dug out a replacement. It just happens to be the right brand :)
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4546532805_eec9dd7e30.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4546533251_95e79e336d.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4547167384_c3894a4951.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4547168162_2a3ff16009.jpg

I'm adding a CL-90 as suggested.
I did a little test polishing too. It's not exactly bright cadmium, but is has the similar white powdery corrosion.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4547176024_12a24667e1_b.jpg

Cleaning the knobs in some warm soapy water. That loosened up the crud, but it still requires scrubbing to get it off.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4546541123_56199fc62e_b.jpg

I discovered this set still has a channel one selector. They just cut the shaft off short.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4546541255_e9553cf5f8_b.jpg

bandersen
04-24-2010, 12:36 AM
I found this tag just before powering the set up. I wonder what RePhased means :scratch2:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4547498704_df237bfc4a_b.jpg

I'm using a dummy load in place of the 7JP4 filament and left the speaker disconnected. I have an isolation transformer and variac on the AC line. I added an extender test socket to the 25Z6 so I can monitor the B+ http://www.jawaspot.com/smilies/hyper-excited.gif
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4546863305_e0212856e1_b.jpg

No explosions, no smoke and B+ seemed OK so I installed a 7VP1 CRT.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4546863669_d3415c9f74_b.jpg

It shows signs of life :banana:
No picture or sound, but it's alive :)
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4546864109_9dd6d806e0_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4546863919_2757825d09_b.jpg


I fired up my B&K 1077B and was able to get a picture of sorts and a bit of sound. That's all for tonight. All in all, not too bad.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4546926851_cf9e56d696_b.jpg

Phil Nelson
04-24-2010, 07:34 AM
Fast work. You should stop over here and clean up some of my neglected projects. I have two of these in the waiting line: a metal T-54 that I got last year, and one in the leatherette "luggable" cabinet that a guy gave me because he had too much stuff that doesn't work. Now, I have too much stuff that doesn't work.

I didn't really plan to get all three cabinet styles, but now that I do, it would be fun to (some day) take a photo of the three sets playing together.

Phil

bandersen
04-24-2010, 10:34 PM
It seems that the voltage doubler and tripler aren't doing their jobs. I have 100 VDC across the board while I should have 125, 260 and 390. I replaced the selenium with a 1N4007 and the 6X5 and 25Z6 test OK. :scratch2:

jr_tech
04-25-2010, 12:19 AM
Could the 25Z6 and 6X5 be swapped? one picture caption sez 25Z6 is on an extender, but the tube near the selenium is extended... on my Hallicrafters the 6X5 is next to the selenium.:scratch2:

jr

bandersen
04-25-2010, 01:17 AM
You're right I did have them swapped at first - the 6X5 really lit up!

I did find another problem though. I screwed up and connected the black lead on one of lytics to ground. It should be connected to the AC line.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4549669339_481a339b79_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4550308436_616945666f_b.jpg

That brought the voltages back up to the proper levels and the picture improved quite a bit :D
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4550308578_b591b289cf_b.jpg

My victory was short lived though. I had the set running for a while and it was working well when I saw a bright flash from the 6X5 :tears: I tested it and the filament is blown. Could be the brief time I had it in the wrong socket damaged it. I popped in a good one, but it's not working. The filament doesn't glow. Which is bizarre because all the other tubes are lit and it's a series wired set :scratch2:
Maybe the socket has developed a short ? Time to do some more investigating.

bandersen
04-25-2010, 01:20 AM
Fast work. You should stop over here and clean up some of my neglected projects. I have two of these in the waiting line: a metal T-54 that I got last year, and one in the leatherette "luggable" cabinet that a guy gave me because he had too much stuff that doesn't work. Now, I have too much stuff that doesn't work.

I didn't really plan to get all three cabinet styles, but now that I do, it would be fun to (some day) take a photo of the three sets playing together.

Phil

No thanks - I have more than enough projects already :D
I know what you mean. I have 5 electrostatic Motorola sets and have restored 3 so far. Someday, I hope to do a group photo too.

bandersen
04-25-2010, 02:34 AM
I got it working :banana::banana::banana: http://www.jawaspot.com/smilies/greenwtfbanana.GIF It turned out the replacement 6X5 wasn't making good contact. A little cleaning of the socket and tube pins took care of that.

Curling anyone ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4550427036_e6f1be9bd3_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4550660402_3b1a19595c_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4550022253_31e1dd50dd_b.jpg

I've cleaned all the crud off the knobs. First, hot soapy water. Then, a toothbrush and Brasso. Next, I used a toothpick on stubborn areas. Finally, a little Novus #1. I wonder how long until the crud returns ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4550021833_3ce0f64cf3_b.jpg

leadlike
04-25-2010, 09:42 PM
6x5's have a bad reputation in the radio world for being prone to shorting out. Especially in those attractive Zenith consoles of the late 30's that used two of them, they would commonly take out the power transformer when they failed. Perhaps you just had a bad one.

I'd like to know what the rephased tag is in reference to as well. Perhaps it was made in '47 and sat on a shelf until the whole channel one mess was worked out, and then in '49 had the push button for ch. 1 hacked out and put up for sale.

marty59
04-26-2010, 08:22 AM
Not to sidetrack from your post, I make a point of using the 6X5's that have the "X-Plate" style of design, like a 6X4 does.

But I'm sure that 25Vac filament voltage didn't help... I'm glad no damage occured as a result!!

Hemingray
04-26-2010, 10:24 AM
I'd love to have one myself, but lack of room kinda stops me :(

bandersen
04-26-2010, 05:18 PM
6x5's have a bad reputation in the radio world for being prone to shorting out. Especially in those attractive Zenith consoles of the late 30's that used two of them, they would commonly take out the power transformer when they failed. Perhaps you just had a bad one.

I'd like to know what the rephased tag is in reference to as well. Perhaps it was made in '47 and sat on a shelf until the whole channel one mess was worked out, and then in '49 had the push button for ch. 1 hacked out and put up for sale.

Could be. Notice it says T-54 too. That's the older model I believe.

Not to sidetrack from your post, I make a point of using the 6X5's that have the "X-Plate" style of design, like a 6X4 does.

But I'm sure that 25Vac filament voltage didn't help... I'm glad no damage occured as a result!!

SO am I, I hate to think what might have happended if it had a power xfrmr.

I wonder if I should put the dead one back in for appearance sake and install some diodes below. I'd need to stick a resistor in place of the filament too :scratch2:


I'd love to have one myself, but lack of room kinda stops me :(

They're fairly small - as vintage TVs go anyway. I bet you could squeeze one in :D

John Marinello
04-26-2010, 07:22 PM
Very nice job.

I have to say that I like the "bubble-headed booby" shot the best.

bandersen
04-26-2010, 09:33 PM
Thanks!

I uploaded a 10 part video series of this restoration project to YouTube.

Here's part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER5mlvmi8EQ)

and here's part 10 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIrKEDzJcOk) if you'd just like to see it playing :)

bandersen
04-30-2010, 08:39 PM
Now for the fun part - cleaning and refinishing :drool:

I'm using acid follow by Simichrome on the chassis and the speaker frame.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3091/4567076524_1299706d2e_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/4567076774_e214f03799_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4566453607_03ff4aac0d.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4567085140_97ac204bff.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/4566453909_76abbd9bdf.jpg

Now the the cabinet. It has a only one bad area where the veneer has separated and chipped.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4567076900_f5ff2216f9_b.jpg

A little soaking softened up the veneer.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4566445799_70ac1fc25a_b.jpg

A little glue, wax paper and weight.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/4566446027_735c102892_b.jpg

It turned out well.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4566446321_5e003e03f2_b.jpg

I used a scrapper to get off most of the old finish without damaging the front panel. Sandpaper got rid of the rest.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4566446617_8f192f06b3_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4567078090_d2597d84da_b.jpg

Now some shellac to fill the grain.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4567078364_f6c16f525d_b.jpg

Next up a little stain and lacquer.

bandersen
05-02-2010, 02:01 AM
Using shellac as gain filler work out very well - smooth as glass :D

Time for some stain. I used Minwax oil based red mahogany.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/4569814367_ac2765a093_b.jpg

I'm really happy with the results.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4569814459_66dfbc932d_b.jpg

I'll let that dry for a few days then I'm going to use some Deft gloss lacquer.

Reece
05-02-2010, 07:35 AM
Good job on that veneer repair. 20,000 volts of ignition transformer weight!

electronjohn
05-02-2010, 10:32 AM
Once again, kudos for your resto play-by-plays...gives plenty of inspiration!!!

peverett
05-02-2010, 03:04 PM
Banderson, you mentioned the 6SH7 tube in the first part of your video. If you ever need some, I have them. I also have a case of NOS 12SH7 tubes. I think the 12SH7s were originally for some military contract as the box appears to be labeled that way.

bandersen
05-02-2010, 03:22 PM
Good job on that veneer repair. 20,000 volts of ignition transformer weight!

LOL - Yeah, I just didn't have any clamps that would work.


Banderson, you mentioned the 6SH7 tube in the first part of your video. If you ever need some, I have them. I also have a case of NOS 12SH7 tubes. I think the 12SH7s were originally for some military contract as the box appears to be labeled that way.

Thanks. I was wrong about that. I believe the early version of this sets used them but this one has 6AU6s.
I will be getting back to my GE810 one of these days and I think it does use one or two so I may take you up on that offer.

PredictaNoob
05-02-2010, 05:15 PM
I've had great success soaking moldy knobs in a cup of 409 cleaner overnight, then popping them a few times with a pot scrubber brush. Dry them off then hose them down with Son of a Gun or Amorall and I have yet to see the mold return.

Sam Cogley
05-02-2010, 08:04 PM
I don't think that white stuff is mold, it seems to be a product of the plastic outgassing as it ages.

bandersen
05-06-2010, 05:15 PM
Here's another update.

I'm painting the base feet with some deep red mahogany toner lacquer.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3309/4585307994_1924e1b294_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4584681911_9cf3089d3a_b.jpg

I had thought that the faceplate was nailed on, but it was actually small screws bent at crazy angles. With a little effort and some needle nose pliers, I got it off. Much easier to work on the cabinet now :yes:
The faceplate is one big hunk of aluminum with a decorative painted grill on top and photo finish on the bottom.
That black strip was probably overspray from the factory. I'm not going to mess with it. It's barely visible when it's all together.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3321/4585308326_8847c67f5f_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4584682473_03e6806186_b.jpg

That photofinish was starting to flake off. So, I carefully clean it with mineral spirits and gave it a few coast of clear semi-gloss lacquer to stabilize it. It turned out well.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4584682849_a5900ae284_b.jpg

Finally, I'm using Deft semi-gloss on the main cabinet. Once that's done, I just need to touch up the black trim around the faceplate.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4584683219_5a3b39e7d8_b.jpg

bandersen
05-10-2010, 04:12 PM
Time to clean the screen bezel. The clean plastic insert sits in a groove in the rubber (?) gasket. Some gentle pressure while slowly working around the edge got it out.

I wonder what would work to clean up that gasket ? Something like NuVinyl maybe :scratch2:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1209/4596150647_1915d8672e_b.jpg

The plastic insert was covered with fine scratches and a couple deeper ones. Some Novus products took care of that.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1245/4596766346_b783ff0a3e_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1161/4596195899_d175b35881_b.jpg

Sandy G
05-10-2010, 04:51 PM
Ooooooh, Lawdy, dat's PURDY !!

bandersen
05-10-2010, 10:08 PM
Thanks!
I went with ArmorAll on the gasket and it came out great. Unfortunately, my black knobs have started going "funky" already :tears:
I'm going to try a 409 dunk followed by ArmorAll as PredictaNoob suggested.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3378/4597642276_2e08e775af_b.jpg

PredictaNoob
05-11-2010, 05:46 AM
Thanks!
I went with ArmorAll on the gasket and it came out great. Unfortunately, my black knobs have started going "funky" already :tears:
I'm going to try a 409 dunk followed by ArmorAll as PredictaNoob suggested.


This morning, after reading this, I had to run up stairs and double-check the plastic zenith knobs (that look a lot like the ones next to your gasket) that I had 'treated', and to my relief they are still "good to go"! No doo-doo on them of any kind. Phew!

PredictaNoob
05-11-2010, 05:54 AM
Also, I broke down and bought the "little brother" to your 506, the T-54. It will get in line behind the Safari, that is waiting in line behind the Predicta I'm knee-deep in now.

On an aside, are you the same banderson who bought/restored a Westinghouse/RCA WR-8 awhile back? I bought one at an online auction and have managed to get myself in a bind as to getting it shipped to me!! I really can be a doofus sometimes.

bandersen
05-11-2010, 12:46 PM
Yep, that's me :yes: Electrically it's just about done, but there's a lot of veneer to repair and then refinish. I figured I'd better get more practice on refinishing cabinets like this first.

That's a really tall and heavy radio, I hope you can get it shipped somehow.

BTW - If that's the T-54 that sold on eBay yesterday, you outbid me :) I'm glad it went to someone who will take the time to restore it - it looks to be in rough shape.

PredictaNoob
05-11-2010, 02:56 PM
Ha ha!!! Yes, I have to admit that even though I don't care for eBay, I spend way too much many there. That is hilarious that you were bidding on it too! Maybe we should all start coordinating here prior to bidding on things, and save ourselves some money!

bandersen
05-11-2010, 04:50 PM
Here we go again with the knobs. The crud floated off after a few hours of soaking.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4599206079_55ec5ee4c6.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1137/4599822892_055d01cd42.jpg

Here they are after a little ArmorAll. I'll keep a close eye on them. If this doesn't work, I may resort to real bourbon (for the knobs and myself :drunk:)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3302/4599823886_d3446c75f7.jpg


Ha ha!!! Yes, I have to admit that even though I don't care for eBay, I spend way too much many there. That is hilarious that you were bidding on it too! Maybe we should all start coordinating here prior to bidding on things, and save ourselves some money!

LOL - I dropped out early so someone else ran up the price. I'll shoot you a PM next time I bid on a set ;)

Reece
05-12-2010, 10:42 AM
OK, Bud, you left yourself open for this. We know what was in that biggish shotglass. So that's what fixes cruddy knobs?? Whatsit do to one's tummy?

bandersen
05-12-2010, 12:54 PM
Dunno, but I bet 409 window cleaner + knob crud = tummy ache :D

bandersen
05-14-2010, 08:44 PM
I'm finally done with all the toner lacquer. Time to rub out the finish with pumice and rottenstone. That's just some dust here and there on the cabinet ;)
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1195/4607830176_9a2101e776_b.jpg

Here's a dry run with the front in place.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1398/4608139090_d7a0f3c927_b.jpg

holmesuser01
05-15-2010, 06:18 PM
That cabinet is going to look really nice. I'm impressed with your work.

Sandy G
05-15-2010, 07:06 PM
Dah-Yum, I'd wager it tweren't THAT nice lookin' when it was factry-new...(grin)

bandersen
05-17-2010, 04:07 PM
Thanks guys. Just when I'm in the home stretch, Home Depot drops the Deft line of lacquer :mad: This isn't the first time that just when I find a product I really like and easily available from a local store, they drop it! All they have now is Minwax lacquer which I've never tried and it's not cheap. My other local outfit, Menards, only carries Watco which is junk IMHO. Besides, no way I'm going to risk trying a different brand on top of the Deft :no:

I have a couple more local places to try (Loews, Ace), then it'll have to be mail order :dammit:

OK, rant over :)

jeyurkon
05-17-2010, 06:30 PM
Thanks guys. Just when I'm in the home stretch, Home Depot drops the Deft line of lacquer :mad: This isn't the first time that just when I find a product I really like and easily available from a local store, they drop it! All they have now is Minwax lacquer which I've never tried and it's not cheap. My other local outfit, Menards, only carries Watco which is junk IMHO. Besides, no way I'm going to risk trying a different brand on top of the Deft :no:

I have a couple more local places to try (Loews, Ace), then it'll have to be mail order :dammit:

OK, rant over :)

I've always liked Deft. That's what we used in Junior High Shop class back in about '61.

pugs5061
05-17-2010, 11:22 PM
Great job on the set! I'm very impressed! On the Deft I have many contacts in the trades and out here in the suburbs there are tons of independents that carry it. Let me know if I can help, its the least I can do to get it for you. I know once I get up and going there will be more than a chance to return the favor!

Reece
05-18-2010, 06:28 AM
My Lowe's carries Deft. I stocked up a bit before Big Bro decides it hurts frogs or something.

bandersen
05-18-2010, 03:07 PM
Great job on the set! I'm very impressed! On the Deft I have many contacts in the trades and out here in the suburbs there are tons of independents that carry it. Let me know if I can help, its the least I can do to get it for you. I know once I get up and going there will be more than a chance to return the favor!

Thanks for the offer. I was out in the NW 'burbs today and found a couple places that carry Deft semi-gloss and satin, but not gloss. I'm using semi-gloss for this project so I'm good to go.
I wonder if Deft gloss is especially nasty ? Nitro-cellulose maybe :scratch2:

I'll probably need some gloss in the future though, so if you know someone who carries it, I'd be interested.

pugs5061
05-19-2010, 02:06 PM
Just an FYI, They carry the Deft Lacquer at Blains Farm and Fleet. All types and sizes. There is a Farm and Fleet near me in Woodstock and I was there for something else this morning and they had a full selection. Quarts, Gallons and probably 5 gallon pails if you wanted, this includes the gloss. I think there are several in the Chicago area but I'm sure they are all way out in the sticks! My offer stands if you ever need someone out in the sticks to pick it up.

Phil Nelson
05-19-2010, 02:32 PM
If you have a local place that carries semi-gloss and satin, maybe they would get some gloss, if you asked.

Phil

bandersen
05-19-2010, 03:14 PM
Just an FYI, They carry the Deft Lacquer at Blains Farm and Fleet. All types and sizes. There is a Farm and Fleet near me in Woodstock and I was there for something else this morning and they had a full selection. Quarts, Gallons and probably 5 gallon pails if you wanted, this includes the gloss. I think there are several in the Chicago area but I'm sure they are all way out in the sticks! My offer stands if you ever need someone out in the sticks to pick it up.

Oh sorry, I should have been clearer. I don't have my own spraying rig so I can only use the aerosol cans. I may get one someday though. They cost a lot less than I had assumed.
I think that F&F in Woodstock is the closest to me - or maybe the one in Montgomery.

If you have a local place that carries semi-gloss and satin, maybe they would get some gloss, if you asked.

Phil

Could be - they do have it listed on their website and I can order it direct from there. Really I'm just annoyed because there are about a dozen home improvement and hardware stores within 10 miles of my place and none of them carry the products I like to use.

And then there's spray paint - strictly forbidden inside the city limits. Like that's prevented any grafitti :rolleyes:

bandersen
05-20-2010, 12:23 AM
I took a closer look at the list of contents on a can of Deft gloss lacquer and it does indeed contain cellulose nitrate. The semi gloss and satin do not.
From what I've read cellulose nitrate is what they used back in the 30s and provides a really high quality finish. It's also rather nasty stuff. I bet that's why some stores don't carry it.

Tom Albrecht
05-20-2010, 12:26 AM
Just took the time to read through this nice long thread, with lots of nice work and pictures!

One thing I didn't happen to see, or might have missed, is any discussion of insufficient HV because of damp old HV coils. That's a very common problem on these T-54, 505, and 506 sets. I've got a 505 that I restored a few years ago. HV coil does fine if used often and kept warm and dry. Let it sit for several months, and the HV comes on weak, and gets weaker from there. When I restored the set, I baked the coil (which does a good job of bringing them temporarily back to life) and coated with fresh varnish.

However... after a few years now it's going to need something else.

Anyone got a good fix for these HV coils? I hate to replace with a solid-state HV unit as some have done. I'd even rather wind a new coil from scratch than do that.

Would love to hear what solutions are out there.

BAnderson, I take it your set does not show this problem?

Tom

bandersen
05-20-2010, 01:06 AM
Interesting. My first thought was to do exactly what you've already tried. Do you suppose it's the coil form material that's absorbing the moisture ? Does tweaking the tuning cap help ?

No, my set hasn't shown this problem. However, I haven't played it all that much and it's been pretty dry lately. I'll have it all back together in a few days and will fire it up occasionally to see how it's playing. Summer is coming and it can get really humid around these parts. If it's going to be an issue, I expect it will show up in a few months.

Phil Nelson
05-26-2010, 12:47 AM
This seems to be a recurring issue with these sets. John Folsom demonstrated a coil winding machine at the last ETF convention. I wonder how hard it would be to wind one of these on a more stable form?

Phil Nelson

David Roper
05-26-2010, 05:35 AM
Hallicrafters sets seem to be in the middle of the HV supply reliability spectrum, with Admiral at the top and Philco at the the bottom. At one point somebody did make a replica of the Philco high voltage coil...so perfectly they replicated the high voltage fade the original suffers from.

bandersen
05-26-2010, 09:45 PM
The Lowe's on the north side was out, so I made the trek over to the west side and scored a few cans :D
I also finally got some Meguiars tech wax that I've been hearing great things about - but that's for another project ;)

I'm just waiting for a few touch-ups to dry then I'll be trying out some pumice on it for a hand rubbed finish.

bandersen
05-28-2010, 09:32 PM
I'm finally calling the cabinet done. I just need to buff out a little over-spray "haze". I found it very annoying to spray a box like this. Every time I got a side perfect, over-spray made another side "fuzzy". Maybe I could have shielded the other sides while spraying. I'll try that on the next project.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4648503325_bc20fbfa3a_b.jpg

Here are the products I used. A red-ish toner would have been more appropriate than Pecan, but that's all I had on hand.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4649118858_b13df423d6_b.jpg

I hope to find time over the weekend to put it back together.

bandersen
06-11-2010, 11:01 PM
Alright, time to finally rub down the finish!

First up 400 grit sandpaper and soapy water. Be careful not to sand through the edges :eek: Next up, a little soapy water and pumice powder. I used a wiping cloth (100% cotton) wrapped around a sanding block to rub it with the grain.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4692521468_78aeab0fd9_b.jpg

Next, mineral oil and rottenstone rubbed with a fresh wiping cloth and sanding block. "Intestinal lubricant" yummy.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1283/4691889137_20604293af_b.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4691889277_50ef6ac2ac_b.jpg

Finally, some paste wax. Apply a thin layer, allow it to dry and buff it out.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4692522042_5c9b64f39f_b.jpg

Time to pop that chassis back in and finish this project off.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4691889811_f052d3cb52_b.jpg

ha1156w
06-11-2010, 11:54 PM
I'm still learning "proper" cabinet refinishing of my old radios and TVs. I see you're using Shellac as well as the Laquer. At what point do you use each? Shellac base and lacquer topcoat with toners in the middle?

bandersen
06-12-2010, 12:18 AM
I'm still learning "proper" cabinet refinishing of my old radios and TVs. I see you're using Shellac as well as the Laquer. At what point do you use each? Shellac base and lacquer topcoat with toners in the middle?

Sort answer -yes.

I used shellac as a grain filler. Mahogany and walnut are quite porous and you really need to do this step if you want a smooth surface. You could use lacquer for this as well but shellac dries faster. It also is a good wood sealer before staining.

I went with stain for the body, but I could just as well have used toner. I did use toner for the trim. After that, I used about 10 coats of Deft Semi-gloss sanding every 3 coats or so with 400 grit.

Here's some more info: http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/qt/RubOutLacquer.htm

electronjohn
06-12-2010, 08:32 AM
Did we have the same wood shop teacher? Rub, rub, rub w/the pumice & rottenstone. That's the old school way to get "depth of finish".

bandersen
07-08-2010, 08:55 PM
Hurray, another project is finally done :banana:

I've had this set running for about 10 hrs this week during the very hot & humid weather. I did not experience any high voltage sag :)

The CRT that came with this set was a little weak and I could hear and smell some ozone coming from the base somewhere. That reminded me that I had picked up a 7JP4 from one of you guys last year with a known grid short. I stashed it away with the thought that someday I could fix it.

Now that I have a Sencore CR70, that day has come. It took four blasts from the "remove shorts" button to clear it out and leave me with a strong RCA 7JP4 in this set :thmbsp:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4776045482_957b38be29_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4775409313_c4b95dc226_b.jpg

The "white gunk" has not returned to the knobs :)
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4776045714_e32f6c1e50_b.jpg

Someone had added an external audio jack and switch. I removed them which left those two holes in the upper-right.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4775549461_e7f03993ec_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4775409671_58c10579f1_b.jpg

jeyurkon
07-08-2010, 11:09 PM
Wow! That cabinet looks great!

Reece
07-09-2010, 07:34 AM
Wow, supernice! Rubbing out is the way to go to get a smooth "depthy" finish.

As to overspray on sides you're not working on, that's what I do: masking tape pieces of newspaper on all sides not being sprayed. I used to use shellac, too, but now am using Deft Sanding Sealer which also dries really fast and is completely compatible with the Deft lacquer. I use a couple of coats between the grain filler and the top lacquer coats. Shellac can go bad on you in the can and make a mess (had that happen and had to sand it all off) but the sanding sealer seems to last forever in the spray can. If you buy fresh shellac a couple of times a year it will probably be OK. Made out of bug exudings! Yummo!

Bill Cahill
07-09-2010, 09:30 AM
Reece, I disagree with you on what shelac is made out of.
However, I also must state that while I like shelac myself, and, your cabinet does look beutiful, I do know that the correct finnish would have been lacquer.
Just a note here.
Bill Cahill :yes:

electronjohn
07-09-2010, 10:51 AM
Pretty damn nice, sir!

matt_s78mn
07-09-2010, 10:56 AM
Reece, I disagree with you on what shelac is made out of.

Reece is correct. Shellac comes from a bug that lives in forests in India and Thailand. The secretions are processed into dry flakes and then mixed with denatured alcohol to make liquid shellac.

bandersen
07-09-2010, 02:45 PM
Thanks guys!

I'd have thought there would be synthetic shellac these days :scratch2:

Just for the record, I used the shellac only to fill the grain. Most of it was sanded off with the shellac only remaining in the pores. I imagine real grain filler would go a lot faster.

P.S.
I picked up a felt block the size of a chalkboard eraser a few days ago and used it on another project. Very nice to use for rubbing out with pumice or rottentone.

Reece
07-10-2010, 06:47 AM
When I used shellac it was the brush-on type that I thinned out with denatured alcohol. Those cans always had an expiration date on them. Never used the spray shellac: are those cans dated?

bandersen
07-10-2010, 06:37 PM
When I used shellac it was the brush-on type that I thinned out with denatured alcohol. Those cans always had an expiration date on them. Never used the spray shellac: are those cans dated?

Not that I can see. The stuff in my can uses ethanol for a solvent.

bandersen
07-17-2010, 10:16 PM
I picked up a new green panther "TV lamp" for this set today :D

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4803154831_b54a7d9e0e_b.jpg