I obtained a 27" Philips L01.1U chassis TV from the TV shop today. The tag on the set said "shuts off". I plugged it in and hit the power button a few times and HV came up briefly. I said to myself "this will be easy, just change the caps in the HOT driver circuit and it will work again". When I removed the back, I was greeted with a major hack job by the technician who attempted to fix this set. The foil is broken loose from the caps and my attempts to resolder the caps only made the foil fall off. Given the tiny traces and other crap in that area, I have no idea where these caps go in the circuit.

If someone has a diagram of this set that they could sell me/copy for me/loan me/ or whatever, I'd appreciate it. Really, the only reason I'm trying to fix this is so I won't hear my Mother complain about "another TV that you brought home that went straight in the trash".

I must say that this chassis ranks up there with some of the junkiest built TV's that I've seen.

I've found that post 1990's Philips chassis just LOVE to shed foil traces. Those things break off all the time.

I fixed one Philips TV that shut off by upping the G2 voltage a bit. It had a "feature" built in to shut it off if the CRT got too dim. heh...

just put it in the bin. anything made by Philips since the early 90s is pure junk!!

It's a shame as they used to make great sets up until the late 80s

This one is actually a North American Philips (Magnavox) set. Uses an LG Philips CRT. I guess I should check the tube before I dig too deep into this one since those LG-Philips CRT's usually don't hold up well.

Like I've said before, the NAP sets made up until the late '90's were decent. They went to hell after that.

I have a Philips Magnavox TV that's currently my garage TV. I like to call it my gutless wonder, a refrence to the Muntz TV's, because the chassis board is less then half the size of a normal chassis board, AND has a large hole in it where the neck board was stamped out.

The casing is thin cheap plastic. I had to glue the channel buttons back on. It's a CHEAP TV from 2000, yet the CRT is still nice and strong.

Still, it's my garage TV because when it breaks, I won't miss it. So I don't much care that it's exposed to the hot and cold.

Oh yeah, I had to solder a new channel up button contact because its last owner managed to break the old one... and yes, the foil trace broke, so putting that button in was kinda fun...

This set is in Sam's 4891, which they want the ungodly price of $27 + shipping for. Frankly, I can't see spending that amount of money on a set that I may not can fix and probably won't bring a lot even when fixed. So, this set is probably going to get trashed if someone does not come to my rescue pretty soon. It seems like the cheaper new TVs became, the more the price of photofacts went up.

Along with this set, I picked up a 2004 27" RCA that uses the ITC008 chassis. The ticket says "shorted HOT", so I'm sure the flyback is bad as well. Bad flybacks and HOT's seem to be the most common trouble in newer RCA's. If the CRT test good, I may order a flyback and stick that set in the livingroom. My mother has been wanting a bigger TV in there. She did inform me that the new TV must have as good a picture as the '85 19" Sony. Otherwise, the old Sony will remain. I think she's now starting to see that these older TVs often have the best picture.

There was also a 2001 19" Orion in the bunch. It was dead and I actually repaired it by replacing a defective 470 uf cap (measured 240 uf) in the power supply. Then, I got lucky and sold it for $50 a few hours ago. If I had luck like that all the time, I might not mind putting more effort into getting these things going.