I would appreciate some help on a problem that one of you experts in TV repair might be able to help me with.


I have a TOSHIBA CX27D60 color TV that i bought around 1995. It has never let me down until now. The other day I pushed "power" on the remote and nothing happened. I pushed the TV's power button and got the same. If I unplug it and plug it back in I can hear a click . If I push the TV's power button the red power indicator will light for a split second, but only if I unplug it and plug it back in several times.

Last night I took the back off to see inside. With a paint brush I carefully vacuumed all the accumulated dust. Plugged it in, pushed power, and it came on. I Noticed that the clicking noise comes from a little silver box the size of a pack of cigarettes located towards the back of the TV. Thinking the "dusting" fixed the problem I put it together put it back on the shelf and watched TV. I come home today and it is doing the same thing.

If I plug in and unplug and constantly hit the power switch theTV eventually comes on (and stays on) There is nothing else wrong with the set..the picture is beautiful. Once it is on all is okay once it is off...well you know the rest.

Any help here would be much appreciated as I hope it is something simple. I would hate to have to get a new set.

The problem is likely bad solder connections or a bad electrolytic cap. I've got a 32" Toshiba of about the same vintage that started displaying a similar symptom. There was a 330uf, 200V cap on the secondary side of the power supply that measured 290 uf. I replaced that and the TV comes on and stays on. I'm still going to "burn it in" for another week or two just to be sure the problem was indeed the cap.

That's one of the downsides to switchmode power supplies. If a component gets out of tolerance the whole system shuts down. At least with tube sets you can get some functional indication of what's wrong. I tend to think that given the age of your set an electrolytic cap is likely at fault.

Thanks guys. I at first thought it was my surge protector outlet strip. By the time I got to the back of my set (it was on a huge audio stand against the wall and never moved) and plugged it into another outlet...it came on.

Is there a way to check these caps? I do have a VOM, and everything is very accessible.

It is unfortunate, because it seems like it would be something that simple. The set weighs a ton and is somewhat bulky. Taking it to someone would probably run over $100 (as it should)

It is otherwise a very good set.

Thank you very much for the responses.

I am watching TV now...it just takes several plug in turn on/ plug out turn on attempts before it stays on...if that makes any sense to you.

You really need special test equipment for testing a cap. I have a capacitance meter that measures the actual value of the cap. I also have an ESR meter. Many electrolytic caps will fail due to high ESR. Some digital VOM's have a capacitance range. You could always just change caps; but, that can get expensive, especially when changing high value, high voltage electrolytics.

You really need special test equipment for testing a cap. I have a capacitance meter that measures the actual value of the cap. I also have an ESR meter. Many electrolytic caps will fail due to high ESR. Some digital VOM's have a capacitance range. You could always just change caps; but, that can get expensive, especially when changing high value, high voltage electrolytics.

Thank you radiotvnut...I watched TV for 6 hours and turned off the set. Curious I hit power on the remote, and it fired right back on. I wonder if that kind of confirms anything. I let it rest until this morning, and it fired back on again. I will not try to turn it on again until tomorrow to see if that has any effect. It seems (not sure yet) that maybe if it sits for a day or two it has a harder time turning on.

Again THANK YOU for your expertise.