Back in the olden days (30 to 50 years ago) ham radio people used to scrounge parts to build transmitters and such. Usually by salvaging junked TV sets.

Today one can get a reasonable number of high voltage caps from salvaged computer monitors and switching power supplies. What I've done is to take junked computer monitors and strip out the circuit boards. Then throw out the CRT and cabinet. Pretty soon one has a well stocked "junk box". It takes about ten or more salvaged monitor boards before one has a decent chance to find a needed cap to unsolder for a recap job. There is a small risk that a cap failed to kill the monitor, but I haven't had that yet. Usually semiconductors in those are what die. Or someone gets a new system with monitor and tosses the old but still working old one. So I can usually recap a set without having to wait for mail order parts to arrive.

Generally monitors are more fruitful than PC switching power supplies so bear that in mind when faced with picking thru a big pile of junk.

Use ceramic caps in audio circuits (except in the hi-fi stereo amp), bypasses and non-critical RF and IF stage circuits. Avoid using ceramic caps in timing circuits (like vertical or horizontal osc circuits). Use mylar or such for those. Avoid the powerline bypass caps for coupling circuits. The "X2" marked ones. Those tend to be leaky. That doesn't bother the powerline service, but can muck up a tube's grid biasing.

The leads will be too short, so just clip out the old wax cap at its body and J hook solder the new ones in the TV set. If you want you could heat shrink the joints with that type of tubing.

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I replaced all caps, paper and electrolytic, in a GE AM tube type radio with computer monitor caps and it worked great! PC switching power supplies often will have 385 and 400 volt electrolytics that can be used in the higher voltage TV and audio circuits...monitors will have some of these but often tend to have more of the 160 volt caps that are good in table radios.

Another good source of parts are those compact florescent light bulbs. They usually have one or two 20uF at 200V electrlytics (the 105C ones), and a few 400V mylar caps as well. Sizes like 2700pF, 3300pF, 0.033uF. So when you find a dead bulb, squeeze its base in a vise to crack it open. Be careful not to break the glass of the bulb, as that can be rather messy.

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Andy, how did you get inside the compact fluorescent to fix it? I have one that quit, probably from bad caps, but it looks like you would have to cut the base open somehow to repair it.

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