Hello, I'm new to this board so I'm still learning. I have an RCA CTC-11 that has worked well for years with small fixes (replace a tube here and there). Now It's starting to need some caps, etc. And I'd like to replace the flyback. There are some very knowledgable folks here. So if anybody has any service information about the CTC-11 or a source of parts that would really help. Also, any troubleshooting pointers would be great. For a long time it has needed about 15 minutes to get up to full brightness. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Dave

Could be the HV rectifier is getting tired, or possibly even the picture tube. Weak video output tube might also cause that. I've never worked on a color set, so there might be other issues. Bad caps are to blame for a lot of things, and if this particular unit uses a voltage doubler arrangement for B+, bad caps in that circuit could cause weak B+.

I'm told that Moyer Electronics is the place to go for flybacks and other oddball parts. http://www.moyerelectronics.com/

I think I've found how to attach pictures. Here's one I just took. Not too good, but you can see it anyway.

Wow! That is a nice looking set. I don't get to see many 11s.

It looks like you either have a weak green gun in your crt or your grey scale adjustment is way off for starters. Nice looking set though and overall looks like its playing decently. It wouldnt take too much to get this one playing like the others on the forum here.
-Tony

I think I've found how to attach pictures. Here's one I just took. Not too good, but you can see it anyway.

That is a very cool set! By the way, is that a console in the bottom left corner of your photo?

I remember being a small child (in the 80's) and remember my grandpartents had what i now can identify simply as a zenith roundie. I remember thinking it was way cooler than my parents TV. I dont recall much about it. Ill ask my grandfather what ever happened to it.

Don't listen to 'em. Yr TV is JUNQUE, about ready to die. It CANNOT be fixed, as that particular model is COMPLETELY made up of Unobtanium parts. Yr best bet would be to ship it to me, prepaid, of course, & I will give it a good decent Christian burial....(Mbwahahahahaha...Maybe THIS will be the one who believes me....)-Unca Sandy, Under the Bridge, Hawkins Co. Tennessee, 37857

When it takes time to get a good picture or brightness, most likely your picture tube (CRT) is weak. A simple setup may make it look better but a weak CRT is what you probably have. What makes you think it needs a flyback or want to replace it? Flyback looks like it is doing its' job to me.

Thanks for all the responses. The Flyback has some "melting" and some HV leaking when the screen goes from light to dark or when I turn down the brightness control. Actually I think all the guns are good--that picture just had too much red in it because of what happened to be on the screen at that moment. I just figured that replacing the flyback would be a good thing. But mostly I need to replace some caps on the vertical board and I figured I should do other stuff while I can. Here's a better screen shot. Thanks again for everyone's help.

That tube does look good, that thing really has a good picture. Where do I get one of them there 11s.....

Welcome to the CTC-11 club! Here's some pics of mine. I think it's pretty common to see some melting at the flyback.
http://members.cox.net/wlcarroll/ctc11.jpg

Nice screenshots! And I like seeing a tube Fisher on top of an old RCA set. Perfect combo.

Having it take awhile to come up to full brightness is almost always a condition of a tired CRT. It can also be a weak video output tube or failing power supply capacitor. Look for ripple in the picture (a weave, almost like the picture is "breathing") That is a good indicator of failing power supply caps.

The 11s really do put out a good picture. I have two of them. It is OK to see a little melted wax near the flyback over the life of the set. Just check to make sure the flyback isn't runing hot. Check the cathode current of the horizontal output tube. If its too high, the flyback will overheat.

If you don't have test instruments the best test is to cold start the set at room temperature and run it for 5 minutes. Then shut down, unplug, open the HV cage and feel the body of the flyback. If its cold or at room temperature then all is well. If its warm or hot then you need to check the horizontal output tube and readjust the Ho cathode current.

Agreed, check tubes! Video output and HV rectifier could be your culprit.

Welcome, Howard! I've got an -11, too. Mine has a crt on the weak side but after some time it wakes up nice. I have not been in the habit of adjusting the cathode current but I am changing that. You should learn how to do that if you haven't already. I wouldn't want to go through the trouble of changing a flyback if I didn't have to; It's not a bad idea to have a spare since they're getting rare.

CT 11 in New York City

Buy this one, It's in my way.

Aww, man...(Slobber, slobber...Drool, drool...)

That is a very cool set! By the way, is that a console in the bottom left corner of your photo?

I remember being a small child (in the 80's) and remember my grandpartents had what i now can identify simply as a zenith roundie. I remember thinking it was way cooler than my parents TV. I dont recall much about it. Ill ask my grandfather what ever happened to it.

Grandfolks ALWAYS have the COOLER stuff! Mine had color in the '60's whereas I had to buy my OWN color set in the 80's! :sigh:

Buy this one, It's in my way.

I'll buy it, where are you located?

Grandfolks ALWAYS have the COOLER stuff! Mine had color in the '60's whereas I had to buy my OWN color set in the 80's! :sigh:

Yes they do, my Grandfather was a TV repairman, he had all the coolest stuff. TVs everywhere! Drool... I wish I could have gotten to know him better, he passed away when I was very young:tears:

Yes they do, my Grandfather was a TV repairman, he had all the coolest stuff. TVs everywhere! Drool... I wish I could have gotten to know him better, he passed away when I was very young:tears:

My grandmother used to give me some cool radios she'd find at garage sales. But my uncle and his father-in-law were both into radio and TV repair. Back in '71 when I was about 15 they were cleaning out their basements on two different occasions and I was invited to take anything I wanted. I took a friend with me and we were both just in hog heaven. As my uncle's father-in-law repaired radios and TV's professionally in the 50's and 60's I remember a LARGE number of old color sets sitting around in HIS basement (like these CTC-11's). But we both went for the radios and related parts as they were more within our (limited) scope of repair ability at the time.
Brian

How do I adjust the HO cathode current?

Also, does anybody happen to know the part number (or any identifying number) of the Flyback for a CTC-11? By the way I've already replaced the 3A3 HV rect. and the damper. I haven't replaced the 6BK4 regulator yet. Could that be it? And if I need to get a new picture tube is there a source for these? It's a 21FJP22.

There's not a real source for these CRTs. You'd have to end up pulling it from another set or have it rebuilt by hawkeye (expensive)

If it still has good grayscale and doesn't bleed like crazy on bright colors - its probably ok.

You can check the 6BK4, but if its weak or bad usually the dimness is accompanied by blooming and shrinking depending on the demand for brightness.

Checking the cathode current requires a good ammeter, some insulated probes, and a careful hand. Disconnect the cathode lead from the HO tube. if you don't know what that is look at receiving tube manual. Then connect the ammeter between the cathode pin of the HO tube and the disconnected lead. Should be somewhere between 200 and 210 millamperes. I think there was also a test insturment available at the time that allowed you to take it from the top cap - but DON'T TRY THAT WITH A NORMAL METER!

You might also get ahold of a good high quality HV probe and see what the HV is at the 2nd anode of the CRT.

Don't neglect the video section. have you checked tubes there yet? anything weak in the IF or video amplifier/output stages will cause weak contrast and dim pictures.

very nice ct 11 in the city

The Horizontal output cathode current is right around 200ma. So I guess it's okay. But how would I adjust it if it weren't okay? I had a 6BK4 pull kicking around so I put it in. No more "blooming" but the picture still takes about 15 minutes to get bright and it doesn't seem to get as bright as it did with the other (older/weaker?) 6BK4. I have a new one on it's way. But I still suspect that the original suspicions were correct. It needs a new CRT. So what to do now?

The cathode current is controlled by the Horiz efficiency coil. There is a coil mounted to the board near the Horiz output tube. This coil when your VOM is connected inline to the lead soldered to the chassis near the tube will measure the cathode current.

As for your CRT, Scotty at Hawkeye in Iowa is about your only choice to rebuild your original tube, he does great work. Otherwise wait to see if a tube comed up here in AK, or search ebay, sometimes you will see them from time to time. But all in all you are not out of luck.

Jpdylon gave you a great description of how to test the HO current and there are alot of knowladgable peeps on this site. I learned alot from these guys so far!