Brought this CTC-9 home last night. Really nice condition all around. The CRT has been replaced with a 21FBP and displays a nice bright picture. Does anyone have the service info on this set they could email me? I want to start by replacing the Electrolytics. Someone before me installed a few orange drops and a 1 replacement electrolytic under the chassis. The set has a vertical issue and horizontal sync goes crazy after 10 minutes. I haven't tested the tubes yet, I'll do that today. Is there a way of removing the safety glass from the front of this set? I need to clean behind it and remove a few dead spiders.
Jim

you suck :D

That is one of the sets on my list. Yours is in beautiful condition and obviously working. What an excellent find. Sorry I don't have any literature for you.

nice set !!!!!!

Yes, the safety glass can be removed. But, be careful of the rubber seal, it is rotten most of the time and can be very messy to deal with. Yours looks good though {sometimes it is melting and dripping down the glass} Look up under the top part of the bezel that holds on the glass, there should be screws underneath, remove those and try to tilt the glass towards you. Be careful, the metal bezel can come off the glass while you are wiggling it, I'd hate for you to break the glass. It is held in at the bottom by a slot that it fits into. Good luck with that beautiful set! SOOO JEALOUS! {smile}
Mark

Thanks for the tips on the safety glass. I safely removed, cleaned and put it back in place. I replaced the Electrolytic cans this afternoon, No noticeable change other than horizontal sync going out within 30 seconds of turning the set on. The images still look squashed and I don't see any kind of vertical linearity adjustment on the chassis. Guess I need a schematic to continue.
Jim

You probably have some out of tolerance resistors in the vertical section. Have you tested the horiz. out tube and the damper? Are the images squashed vertically or horizontally? Please post a pic of it going haywire. It does sound like you need a schematic, try the library for sams folders. I've had to buy a few directly from sams, thirty bucks but was worth it. I can also check at Chesters electronics, they have lots of sams and I'm going there this afternoon. If they have one I'll pick it up for you {they're cheap}. Glad the glass came off nicely for you.
Mark

Here are a couple photos when the picture goes haywire. Sometimes the image stops moving for a few seconds (though not locked in) then starts flipping, etc... Adjusting the horizontal knob on front only makes it worse and causes that whinning sound. I've tested and replaced the Horizontal output and Damper tubes, Tried 3 different good 6Cg7's no change.
Jim

Nice set. I'm jealous. Enjoy it in good health.

I don't know about that one, but on my CTC-11 there are 2 diodes in the horiz. sync circuit. One had gone bad and, at best, I could just get a jittery picture for a few seconds. These may have originally been a dual diode (2-in-1) but you can replace with seperate parts if needed. Again, I don't know how they did it on the -9, could have been done by tube.

The vertical controls are probably located behind the contrast and vert hold control. Pull the knobs and look at the shafts. The hollow ones are the adjustments for the vertical height and linearity

if the picture is tearing and flipping at the same time look to the sync circuits. You've lost sync pulses. Probably due to a failing component or bad solder connections.

on my ctc9 and ctc10 sets there was a black beauty cap on the horizontal osc. board. that needs to be changed as well as the one on the ac input where the cord plugs into the chassis. my ctc10 had some bad orange drops in the verticle circuit they do go bad. steve

I saw that black beauty on the Horizontal osc. board this morning and replaced it. The sync problem has gone away and the picture locks in and stays there. However, I sprayed the color/sound controls with tuner/contact cleaner and now the color is out. All I get is a B/W picture with red lines around images. I'll replace those orange drops under the chassis. Vertical linearity is much improved since the adjustment controls were found.
Jim

Did you spray in the stuff that has the yellowish lube or regular contact cleaner? I used tuner cleaner{yellowish lube} in a color control of a '72 GE and the color went nuts, the lube sometimes causes drift. Although, you may have another problem. The red lines sound like the convergence is a bit off, no biggie. I also picked up the schematic if you are interested.

Yes I'm interested in a schematic, I need one. I pulled the chassis today and replaced all the orange drops. I've tested all tubes in the set and replaced the weak ones. I can get color to return If I turn the color control knob to a certain posistion and push down on the shaft. If I don't keep pressure on the shaft the color goes away again. Could something have disintegrated inside the control? Here are a few current screenshots.
Jim

I think you need a new color control pot.

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Man, what a simply GORGEOUS set !! You lucky Dawg...

I removed the color control pot, took it apart and cleaned it with a Q-Tip & De-oxit, No change it does the same thing. Does anyone know the value of this control? I'd like to wire up a replacement control for now and disconnect this bad one. Someday I'll locate an original replacement (Hopefully) This is a 3 section control shaft On/Off - Volume - Color Control. I only want to replace the color control pot.
Jim

The color pot is 500 ohms.

Thanks! I'll see if I have a 500 ohm pot in my parts bin.
Jim

One thing about your shots about when the picture loses it's sync- reminds me of what happens when the AGC control is turned up too high, causing the detector and sync circuits to overload.

Poor connections are another potential culprit.

Really sweet set and great picture. I notice you have "Get Smart" and "Andy Griffith Show" and rabbit ears atop the set. Do you get RTN on analog where you live?

Rob in Michigan

I have the RCA field service guide which I can copy the schematic from, and can most likely send you a Sams in PDF. PM me

I have the RCA field service guide which I can copy the schematic from, and can most likely send you a Sams in PDF. PM me

Thanks! I sent you a PM.
Jim

One thing about your shots about when the picture loses it's sync- reminds me of what happens when the AGC control is turned up too high, causing the detector and sync circuits to overload.

Poor connections are another potential culprit.

Really sweet set and great picture. I notice you have "Get Smart" and "Andy Griffith Show" and rabbit ears atop the set. Do you get RTN on analog where you live?

Rob in Michigan

The rabbit ears on top of the set are not connected, Just decorative. The vintage programing is from my DVD player. Is RTN a network you can pick up with a converter box?
Jim

Hi,

We have a CTC-9 with the same issue. Replacing the Color Control Pot solved it after all else failed. It's a nice set with one of the best color pictures out there. Best of success with it. I'll check and see if we have manuals.

The set won't converge, Anyone know the value of the selenium rectifier on the convergence board.
Jim

Hey Jim, Nice set. Just wanted to let you know that Moyers still has TONS of old stock parts for RCA's, so if you have the part-numbers of what you need they will most likely have it. Even if you don't have the part-number they are good at looking stuff up. I usually call the Sunbury,PA location. Maybe they would have the color pot you need.
Good luck with it, and keep us posted!
http://www.moyerelectronics.com/

Thanks for the link, I'll call Moyers for the parts I need. What are the chances of finding a replacement Flyback for this set? Are the days numbered for this Flyback? I tend to run my vintage TV's at least an hour a day.

That flyback doesn't look toooo bad. Much better design than what RCA used for their tube sets circa CTC-16 thry CTC-39.
When you call them, give them the chassis and Model number. I ordered a spare flyback for my CTC-16 which was a tad dirfferent from a CTC-16XL. RCA made minor changes on the same chassis thruout the model run. From what I understand, Moyers is a family owned company that has been in business since the 30's, and unlike most other places, have NOT thrown out stock, so you never know. If they have that flyback on the shelf, I'd snag it, along with whatever parts they may have for your set.

Again, good luck!

I replaced the selenium rectifier with modern diodes on the convergence board today and now the set will converge. Sadly I must sell the TV and try to break even on the deal. The set is too large for the space I have available and some recent financial woes force me into the decision to sell.
I posted a youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hUtztAys3c I hope the set finds it's way to a good home.
Jim

Classicradios,


I was the one who emailed you from TN on Ebay a short time ago about the 1965 Zenith. I guess I wasn't fast enough. I probably would have ran into shipping problems anyway. Most old TV's seem to be up more up north than down south.