Hi Everyone,

I picked up a 17 inch 1956 Setchell Carlson chassis C102 TV for 20 bucks off of craigs list. It didn't work of course, it was sold without a cord.

I took it home checked it all over, tested all the tubes and I decided to test it out with my "lightbulbs" in series tests. This set is interesting because it uses silicon diodes when all the other TV manufactures were using either Selenium or the good ol 5U4's. This is in 56'. Electrolytics weren't shorted out, but I did discover a thin trail of smoke from somewhere within. After quickly powering off I looked over the horizontal section and found a carbonized solder connection. The burn mark went from the wafer board solder connection to a ground connection right next to it. I just broke it loose and tried the TV again. Bingo. No smoke.

I get a great working Original capacitor TV!! Thats a first because I am used to most old sets being DOA. This isn't perfect set, vertical hold is at full rotation and CRT is somewhat dim. Either low B+ due to bad waxed caps, or worse . . . . . . . .Weak CRT? A 17BJP4.

I find it hard to re-cap this TV at this point. I have never come across a vintage 50's TV that works with origonal BLUE micamold waxed caps and electrolytics. Its been run for at least 6 or 7 hours today, so I am sure the electros are reformed. Most sets use ugly yellowish, melty dripping, waxed caps. This set uses clean baby blue caps. How can I rip those out? Once something shorts out of course, but for now they work beautifully!

If you've read this far, thank you! My question is The TV uses a 6DQ6 Horizontal output tube. A 6BQ6 has the same basing as the 6DQ6 and it 6 dollars cheaper from AES. It sells for about $1.30 while the 6DQ6 is $7.50 Will it be a perfect substitute for the future?

I don't know how to attach photos within the KB size limit so I can't post any pictures.

Best regards,
Matt D

Plastic-coated 1950s caps such as bumblebees, etc., are simply paper caps in plastic shells, so they are generally unreliable.

For the record, you can't really judge the condition of a wax paper cap by its appearance. It may look drippy but still test OK, or look fine on the outside but be junk on the inside. That's why I replace 'em all, along with plastic-coated bumblebees, Micamold papers, etc.

I would not rely on original electrolytics, even if you think they have reformed. My experience is that a reformed 50-year old electrolytic will not be reliable for the long haul.

If you wait for one of the electrolytics to fail, then you may burn up an "unobtanium" power transformer. Been there, done that. You could pay more for a replacement than you spent on the TV.

If it were my TV, I'd replace the electrolytics and carefully clean and inspect that entire area where you found the carbon trail. Denatured alcohol is good for cleaning away the soot & grime in a H-V area. H-V can do funny things like tunneling through a phenolic wafer, which may not be obvious if the whole area is dirty.

Next, I'd do some voltage checks to get an idea of the basic health of the power supply, and move on to other specifics from there.

My little tube substitution handbook says that you can't replace a 6DQ6 with a 6BQ6 (although you can go the other way). The TV sages probably know more about that issue.

Good luck with the project. Setchell Carlson is a good manufacturer, from what I understand.

Phil Nelson