View Full Version : CTC-10 with remote


Adam
02-16-2007, 02:18 AM
I picked up this set today. Saw it on CL last night and went out to get it this morning, sat in traffic for an hour and a half on Laurel Canyon, only to get to the store and see that it doesn't open for another 2 hours. I left my car parked out front, and walked to have something to eat, but still wound up just sitting in my car for an hour or so. I bought it, told them to hold it for me, drove to ucla to get one of my friends to help me lift it in and out of the car, a couple hours later, after lunch, we set out back to Hollywood to pick up the set, we load it in the back seat with the top down, and go back over the hill, sitting in traffic for another hour. Then we get here, unload the set, and I drive him back to ucla, and I sit in traffic again on the way back here. I spent the most of the day driving in bad traffic, but this set was worth it.

The CRT tests good on all 3 guns. The remote controls color and tint as well as channel and volume. It'll be a while before I get to this though because I want to finish a few other sets I already pulled the chassis out of first.

blue_lateral
02-16-2007, 02:23 AM
Nice set!

John

polaraman
02-16-2007, 09:34 AM
Adam,

The set would not fit in the trunk of your car?:D


polaraman

jpdylon
02-16-2007, 10:23 AM
great find Adam. I look forward to seeing it in action :yes:

kx250rider
02-16-2007, 12:09 PM
Congratulations on that one!!!

I had heard wind of it on Wednesday from Dr. Dan, but didn't act on it.

Where are you going to put that :scratch2:

Charles

Adam
02-22-2007, 02:27 AM
Not in the pics are my Zenith SC 300 and the 3 console radios currently in the bedroom.

And having the convertible makes hauling large sets a lot easier.

Adam
06-20-2008, 02:10 PM
Now I'm getting back into this set. First I'm going to repair the remote, after I took it apart, I saw that one button was cracked. I'm going to try taking it apart and gluing it back together with some epoxy.

Before I get going on this set, I have some questions on soldering on circuit boards. What should I be doing to avoid lifting traces and making a mess of the boards, is there a particular technique involved in removing, and soldering to the boards? Also what is a particularly good soldering iron/gun for working on the boards? I've never had any trouble soldering to the old style point to point wiring, but never really managed to get the hang of working on the circuit boards.

andy
06-20-2008, 03:13 PM
---

zenithfan1
06-20-2008, 06:31 PM
Congratulations!! That thing screams class! Very lucky and nice find! Thanks for the pics of your tvs, now I know I'm not the only one piling them up like that!:D

ceebee23
06-20-2008, 07:44 PM
oh wow ...gr8 catch and you have some marvellous things in your collection ...I note the CED disk player on the floor under one of your sets!

Sandy G
06-20-2008, 07:54 PM
An' I thought I had "The Sickness" bad...Hell, I'm a piker...(grin)

Telecolor 3007
06-22-2008, 03:26 AM
It's great that you found one which haves remote control. I know back then remote controls weren't a common things!

kx250rider
06-22-2008, 12:21 PM
Adam, I may have a few of those remotes, if you need parts. I'd have to look, but I'm pretty sure I do. Also, that takes a funky silver-mercury battery... You can use the later RCA remotes for functionality, and just keep a clean original for display if you want.

Charles

Adam
06-26-2008, 02:09 AM
Those pics are a year old from February, since then I sold a few of those, and picked up a few others. Thanks for the tips on soldering the boards. That is an odd battery 4.2v, are those (or some equivalent) still available? The old battery was still in there, and actually had caused some some corrosion on the battery terminals I had to clean up. I fixed the buttons that were cracked, then cleaned, and reassembled the remote.

jpdylon
06-26-2008, 09:21 AM
lucky dog! You have a color remote set that will probably soon work.

kx250rider
06-26-2008, 11:59 AM
Beautiful job on that remote!

Charles

andy
06-26-2008, 02:54 PM
---

Adam
06-27-2008, 04:40 AM
Removed the safety glass, cleaned all the dirt/dust off the front of the crt and the inside of the glass, and put that strip that says "color" back where it should be.

batterymaker
06-27-2008, 07:23 AM
Which VS battery number does it take? Chances are it's a VS133, and there's an alkaline equivalent called the En133. Eveready recently stopped making them, but there's a cottage industry making them. Just check on the web.

kx250rider
06-27-2008, 11:53 AM
Removed the safety glass, cleaned all the dirt/dust off the front of the crt and the inside of the glass, and put that strip that says "color" back where it should be.

Looks great! Did you have to battle with that black goo? Every time I try to get that RCA safety glass clean, I have thousands of spots of that black sealer goo everywhere from the carpet, doorknobs, faucets, up my nose, and Goodness knows where else!

Charles

eberts
07-01-2008, 08:03 PM
1961 Ctc-10

Adam
07-04-2008, 12:36 PM
pictures of the chassis:

fsjonsey
07-04-2008, 06:19 PM
This looks alot like the set President Kennedy had in the Oval Office.

Adam
07-05-2008, 04:16 AM
This looks alot like the set President Kennedy had in the Oval Office.

I think it is the same model set, apparently installed by Eisenhower: http://www.eisenhower.archives.gov/audiovisual/Oval_Office/

Looks great! Did you have to battle with that black goo? Charles

No black goo, someone had been in there to clean it out before me (but long enough ago for lots of dust to build up since). I can tell for sure because they also dented that aluminum piece on top that holds the glass in prying it out.:thumbsdn: (otherwise the cabinet is in nearly like new condition)

The battery is VS163 Eveready E163, I looked around no 4.2v batteries, but there may be some 4.5v batteries that might work (or if I can find 3 small enough 1.5v batteries).

After taking a good look at the chassis I can see a lot of repairs done before (mainly caps replaced). Also whoever worked on it before kept hitting wires with the soldering iron, melting the insulation in places, not so bad I want to replace them, but still I would have thought he would have been more careful on such a high-end set. That big replacement electrolytic on top of the chassis there, 80mfd 450v, is not actually replacing one of the power supply filters, but rather the 50mfd 50v cap which hooks to the contrast control, I wonder if he really meant to do that or just connected the wrong wire. The thermistor was broken and the wires were just twisted together there.

Was there originally some kind of metal cover that went over the bottom of the IF board? It looks like there might have been something like that there that was unsoldered and never replaced.

fsjonsey
07-05-2008, 04:49 PM
I think it is the same model set, apparently installed by Eisenhower: http://www.eisenhower.archives.gov/audiovisual/Oval_Office/



No black goo, someone had been in there to clean it out before me (but long enough ago for lots of dust to build up since). I can tell for sure because they also dented that aluminum piece on top that holds the glass in prying it out.:thumbsdn: (otherwise the cabinet is in nearly like new condition)

The battery is VS163 Eveready E163, I looked around no 4.2v batteries, but there may be some 4.5v batteries that might work (or if I can find 3 small enough 1.5v batteries).

After taking a good look at the chassis I can see a lot of repairs done before (mainly caps replaced). Also whoever worked on it before kept hitting wires with the soldering iron, melting the insulation in places, not so bad I want to replace them, but still I would have thought he would have been more careful on such a high-end set. That big replacement electrolytic on top of the chassis there, 80mfd 450v, is not actually replacing one of the power supply filters, but rather the 50mfd 50v cap which hooks to the contrast control, I wonder if he really meant to do that or just connected the wrong wire. The thermistor was broken and the wires were just twisted together there.

Was there originally some kind of metal cover that went over the bottom of the IF board? It looks like there might have been something like that there that was unsoldered and never replaced.

There are a few 4.5v button cells out there that you could get to work.

andy
07-05-2008, 07:22 PM
---

eberts
07-06-2008, 01:05 AM
I read the White House was in disrepair, and falling apart. When Kennedy moved in, Jackie with her magic, made them spend millions to rehab, restore, and decorate the place. They were not too thrilled with her spending that kind of money, she wanted
and got the best material and craftsmen to do the work.
Today they are glad she did that, restored dignity to the White House. Maybe she had the TV tossed out ?

Adam
07-06-2008, 05:18 AM
There is a series of pictures here: http://www.whitehousemuseum.org/west-wing/oval-office-history.htm It looks like Kennedy kept the ctc-10, but Johnson had a unit installed that was 3 sets in one console.

The remote does actually turn the tint, color, and volume controls.

I checked all the tubes. None shorted, or so weak that they obviously won't work. The 6AQ5 (audio output) was weak enough that I'll probably swap it out, and the 6EM7 (vertical) was slightly weak, but I'll probably see if there's actually any vertical trouble before changing it. Most of the tubes had been changed in this set over the years, it probably saw at least 10 years or so of service, many tubes have that more modern looking RCA logo on them. It is interesting to note that all the replacement tubes are RCA tubes, I think this is the first time I've ever seen anyone actually pay attention to the signs they put on stuff that say "use only ... tubes."

kx250rider
07-06-2008, 01:09 PM
Was there originally some kind of metal cover that went over the bottom of the IF board? It looks like there might have been something like that there that was unsoldered and never replaced.

Yes. It had a metal plate with holes to reach through to get at the IF slugs. You need that cover in place or the alignment will be interfered with by stray magnetic fields elsewhere in the chassis. If nobody comes up with an extra one, you could make a temporary one with an old paint thinner can, etc.

Charles

Adam
08-10-2008, 02:20 PM
I'm nearly ready to put this set back together. I swapped all the electrolytics and paper caps in the TV chassis. I replaced the broken thermistor. Checked the restistance readings at the tube sockets in the horiz and vert circuits following the sams, and only changed a few resistors that were only around 20% off anyway. I swapped that one 6AQ5 audio output tube, all the other tubes tested ok. This set looks to me like it was well maintained into the late 60s or even into the 70s, there were already some orange drops in it, as well as many tubes with that newer RCA logo. I also recapped the remote chassis, and replaced the selenium rectifier that was in there with a 1N4007 diode. It's strange how the plating is starting to come off of the top of the remote chassis. And I swapped the selenium rectifier on the convergence board for 3 diodes. The 3 things I haven't picked up yet for this set are still a battery for the remote, the metal piece that goes under the IF board, and the socket for the light that goes on the bottom of the cabinet (it was missing). But I might just put it back together and fire it up first, just to see what's going on.

firenzeprima
08-10-2008, 03:58 PM
a question, but this color TV SET you have found in the street or you have bought in a store?

Adam
08-10-2008, 04:13 PM
I bought it at an antique store, but I found out about it because it was also advertised on craigslist.

firenzeprima
08-10-2008, 04:36 PM
I bought it at an antique store, but I found out about it because it was also advertised on craigslist.

You Americans are more advantaged in finding old color TV SET, here in Europe, especially in Italy, at most you could find color TV SET half of the'70s no more, is no longer anything those TV SET B & W of years '50'60 Are virtually unavailable. tv equipment were not widespread in homes as yours.
today you can find 3 or 4 TV SET in a house. but 20 or 30 years ago a house a TV SET.

Adam
08-10-2008, 07:35 PM
Broken speakers! These two tweeters are broken (see pic). I might be able to solder some wire to the one on the left, but not the one on the right where that one wire is broken way inside. I looked in my stash of speakers but I don't have anything the right size. It's 3 1/2" 8-10ohms. Is anybody currently making anything that would work as a replacement?

andy
08-10-2008, 09:17 PM
---

peverett
08-10-2008, 09:44 PM
I had this same problem with both a B&W RCA TV and a 1953 model RCA radio. The wires did break off of the speaker mounted connecter in my cases, but I was able to soldier them back. To fix both of them I drilled the remains of the old rivet out and replaced it with a machine screw and bolt.

As Andy indicates, this seems to be a weakness in RCA sets.

Adam
08-11-2008, 01:45 AM
It works. That pic is nearly like it was when I first turned it on, all I adjusted was the vert height. I haven't done any convergence or anything else yet. The power tuning does work, (but the tuner does need cleaning, I had to spin it around a few times before I got that good of a picture.) I can't fully test the remote yet without a battery, but I tried a Zenith SC600 remote, and the "channel higher" button changes the channel lower, and the "off-on" button turns the color control up. Also this set picks up a lot of interference from the DVD player, (maybe because of that missing metal plate from under the IF board?), I was finally able to eliminate most of it by getting a long wire and placing the DVD player several feet away from the set on the floor, and using a separate RF modulator rather than feeding the TV directly from the RF output of the DVD player. I'm currently running it on only one speaker (without those 2 speakers from my previous post) but it sounds ok.

Tony V
08-11-2008, 02:25 AM
Looking good Adam! Wow those are some deep reds! It came out nice for your first start up. Nice job on the restoration!
-Tony

Adam
08-12-2008, 01:36 AM
The last two 60's RCA TVs I've worked on had speakers with rivets that broke when I attempted to unplug them.I had this same problem with both a B&W RCA TV and a 1953 model RCA radio.

The same exact thing happened to me, the rivets broke right off. I should have stopped after the first one, but I really didn't expect it to happen twice. Now I know to watch out for this when unplugging these RCA speakers.

Looking good Adam! Wow those are some deep reds! It came out nice for your first start up. Nice job on the restoration!
-Tony

Thanks. I always get nervous before turning on a set for the first time, then waiting for it to warm up. It was a big relief when that picture came up.

The picture stays b/w for about a minute before the color comes in. I'm going to try that chroma oscillator alignment like I did on my Philco which fixed this problem in that set. But for now I'm not going to mess with it for a while, at least until I dig up something for a battery for the remote and try and fix those speakers.

Next I'm going back to the Philco, I finally tracked down a needle that fits the phonograph in that unit, so I'm going to see if I can fix the record changer. It works manually, but won't change records.

Adam
08-12-2008, 01:46 AM
I don't know what happened here, somehow I posted twice...

Adam
12-31-2008, 07:11 PM
I did the color oscillator alignment on this set, as it was taking several minutes for the picture to come up in color (like my Philco was last year). It improved it, but I didn't really fix the problem until I swapped out the 6GH8 (which tested good - It seems that the 6GH8 in this particular circuit sometimes won't work right even if it's good, I've even had tubes work in one set, but not another). I also did the adjustment that centered the tint control - it had to be all the way to one side to get green. And so far I've repaired one of the speakers. Still haven't gotten a battery for the remote. I also need to adjust the vert linearity a bit, and touch up the convergence, which is actually pretty good except for the very left and right edges.

zenithfan1
12-31-2008, 07:15 PM
Beautiful color! And, happy new year!

old_tv_nut
12-31-2008, 10:24 PM
Looks like a textbook result - congratulations, and Happy New Year!

jpdylon
01-01-2009, 09:44 AM
wonderful deep color!

Something you just don't find nowadays.

Adam
01-02-2009, 01:52 PM
Thanks. Now the color comes up as soon as the set comes on, but sometimes (not always) the picture will be very dim for as much as a minute or so when I first turn it on, and at this time the brightness control is completely ineffective. I've found that at this time those 2 neon lamps don't light, then after they come on the picture reaches it's full brightness. If the 2 lamps light right away, the picture comes up at full brightness right away. Can I get replacements for these, I can't find any information about them in either the sams or the rca book I have.

I reinstalled the speaker I repaired, but was unable to repair the 2nd one. Also does anyone know where I can get a lamp holder for the light that sits in the front of the set, that tells you if the remote chassis is powered up, I don't have anything that fits, and have yet to find anything that will fit.

Kiwick
01-02-2009, 03:09 PM
Maybe you can carefully cut a section of the cone open to get to the snapped wire then glue it back?

Findm-Keepm
01-02-2009, 08:33 PM
I have the RCA Field service guide for your set - I'll look at it tomorrow and see what I can find on the lampholder and the two lamps.

Cheers,

bgadow
01-02-2009, 09:57 PM
I have a junkbox full of lamp holders and hardware; if you can find a good photo I can try to match it. There are some generic ones in RadioDaze and AES.

Adam
01-03-2009, 01:41 AM
I did the convergence tonight.

I did pull the cone back on that speaker to try to get in there and solder on a new wire, but there was only maybe a 1/16 in. of wire left to solder onto inside that speaker, and there was no way to solder a new wire to it without touching a paper portion of the speaker with the iron. I did fix it at first, but I didn't solder it well enough for the wires to stay attached, when I tried a second time I burned part of the speaker, no way to repair it now, I'm going to have to look out for another one.

Here's a pic of where the lamp holder goes under the cabinet, I don't have the original holder. The reason why nothing will fit is that there needs to be only 1" space between where the front tip of the bulb would be inside the hole and where the bracket would come off the holder to attach to the cabinet (see the small screw hole just to the right). But I'm sure I can eventually adapt something, if nothing will fit as is.

Tony V
01-03-2009, 02:06 AM
If i remember right, the bracket and the lamp holder were two separate pieces. The L-bracket fastened to the cabinet and the lamp holder then slid onto the bracket by a clip that was attached to the holder. It should be the same style that you would find on RCA Victor console radio/record players from the late 40's to the early 50's.
-Tony

Findm-Keepm
01-03-2009, 12:44 PM
Well, no joy on the Field Service guide - I have a gap from 1958-1962 it seems. What I do have is a variety of lampholders - pix attached. All accept a standard T1-3/4 bayonet bulb (44, 47, 51, etc.) and have two wires, as there are no chassis brackets anywhere in your photo. Let me know if any one (or two) might fit - they are yours for postage.

Cheers,

old_tv_nut
01-03-2009, 02:00 PM
I checked the field service guide, and it gives no clue to the mechanical look of the master pilot holder. Also looked at CTC-11 and 12. The electrical schematic says it's a #47 bulb in series with a 7.5 ohm resistor, but no diagram of the mounting.

Findm-Keepm
01-03-2009, 03:59 PM
Found it! I have the RCA service manual for your set - "1960 T-5" for CTC10 Chassis series. The pilot lamp holder is called "Socket -Pilot lamp socket and lead for 211CDR835-6-7 & U, 211CDR886 & U, 211CDR896 & U", part number 107044.

The two neon lamps in your set (tied to the brighness and blanker circuits are NE-2 neons, tied off of a 470K resistor, R741.

Your 3.5" speaker is listed as Speaker, 3 1/2", Permanent Magnet, 9 ohms, part number 102119

The manual and supplement also have all of the alignment info for your remote setup. Lemme know what you may need.

Cheers,

Adam
01-03-2009, 05:57 PM
Thanks for all the offers of lamp holders, but I hadn't thought of using one of those clip on units with an L bracket, I dug through a few boxes of junk, and came up with this which fits.

I hadn't realized NE2 was actually a designation of the neon lamps, and not just a part number. I checked resistors in the area, and tried swapping the video amp tubes, everything seemed ok, so I'm still thinking it's the lamps that aren't coming on right away causing the lack of brightness when I first turn the set on.

Adam
01-04-2009, 03:35 PM
I fixed the light. And I finally got a battery for the remote, I combined one of those small 1.5v batteries on top of a longer 3v battery. The color, tint and volume work. The channel changer doesn't. Which is odd because the power tuning does work. With this remote it will turn on the motor instantaneously, but not long enough to change the channel. Also is there any kind of grease I should be putting on all the gears this uses? I have to say it is really cool to see the remote actually turn all of the controls as it does on this set, I don't know why they didn't put all the controls on the remote though, they did color, tint, and volume, but left out the brightness and fine tuning.

bluenorm
01-04-2009, 06:02 PM
HI
Sooner or later the neon lights will fail. The book Color Servicing made easy by Lemons and Babcoke Pages 117 to 118 explain in details how to change the circuit. I did it to my and works perfect.

The R 741 is one the parts that needs to be replaced to1.2 mg
Use 220K 1 watt instead of neon lights. The 3.3 meg to band pass change to4.7 to5.6meg.
If you need copy of the pages let me know I will fax then to you .

Weak color is associated to the neon bulbs too.

Adam
01-04-2009, 10:27 PM
Interesting, I'm out the 1.2meg resistor here otherwise I would try it now, I'll order some along with the new lamps, and try the resistors first, if it works, I'll leave them out.

I got the channel changer on the remote to work, but only after it warms up for a few minutes and in short range. The problem was one relay wasn't staying engaged. First of all the contacts on that relay were a bit dirty (must have been used more.) Secondly, all those 6EV7 tubes are weak (and I don't have any replacements here, so I'll have to order all 3). Thirdly, I did improve it a bit by trying to align the remote receiver. I was going to follow the procedure in the sams, but then my signal generator wasn't working (I have mostly all old partially, or not at all, working test equipment, one day I really should sit down and try to fix more of it). So what I did was to hook a vtvm directly up the grid of each of the 6EV7 tubes corresponding to the button on the remote I was pressing, and then adjusted the corresponding coil for maximum voltage on the meter while I was still holding the button on the remote down. It seemed to work. But I'm still hoping I can improve the range of the remote with new tubes. (it's only about 5 feet now and less than 2 to change the channel)
---

I just swapped the 6EV7s so the strongest one is connected to the channel changer relay, and the really weak section of that tube that was controlling the channel relay is now controlling the tint. For some reason I can still control the tint at a little over 5 feet away, but now I can also control the channel at that distance too.

Adam
01-18-2009, 10:29 AM
I got my new 6EV7s, the range of the remote control is much improved.

Adam
01-19-2009, 04:42 AM
I changed R741 to 1.2meg, the neon lights to a 220k 1W resistor, and R701 to 4.7meg. This did fix the problem with the color not coming up right away. But now the color control goes too high, too much color if it is set much over "2-3" even on a weak signal (Before I set the color nearly right in the middle between 4 and 5). And the brightness control goes higher too now, and at about 2/3 of the way up the picture starts shrinking horizontally on the left and otherwise blooming out, at 3/4 it just blooms, and disappears at higher brightness - Normal brightness is at about 1/4 - 1/3 of the way up. (Before it was at normal brightness at about 1/2 - 2/3 up, and began to shrink horizontally and then bloom at over 3/4 up, it never got so high it disappeared.)

---

I tried 5.6meg instead of 4.7 for R701, (I even tried 10meg), but it didn't really make a difference. Setting the color control low doesn't really bother me, but I'd like to do something about having the picture blooming so much it goes away entirely at top brightness. I suppose I should check the HV first, but I don't yet have an HV probe.

I'm going to be moving in about a month, so I have to quit working on my sets and start figuring out how to pack up all my stuff. (Which seems like a completely impossible task.) I might bolt the chassis back in and leave this set as is until I'm totally relocated.

Adam
04-01-2009, 04:55 PM
I went and made replacements for the metal shield that went over the video IF board, and what I think was another one that went over the color circuits. I've never seen in another ctc-10 chassis, so I don't know how close my replacements are to the original units. But at least now I can watch dvds without seeing loads of interference from the dvd player itself. But, it still does receive some, and even after moving the dvd player several feet away from the set I still get what looks like clear vertical lines moving horizontally across the screen. But they're somewhat intermittent, and moving the wire around which connects the dvd player to the tv can increase or decrease the intensity of the lines, and at the least intensity they're hardly noticeable. I'm sure it's from the dvd player because I get no such interference if I'm just watching this set from the antenna, and the dvd player is off - but then if I watch the dvd player on other sets I don't get this problem, which is why I thought it had to do with that missing shield over the video IF board entirely. .. I was going to post a pic of the chassis, but I can't seem to get it to work. ... I posted it in the picture gallery here: http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5414&size=big&cat=

damen
04-01-2009, 06:10 PM
Nice set ad worth the effort :thmbsp:

Adam
04-03-2009, 11:24 PM
Thanks. Anyone have any thoughts on how to repair the plastic holder for the remote that sits on the back of the set? It got broken in transport to MI. pic here: http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5418&size=big&cat=503

Steve D.
04-04-2009, 01:22 AM
Thanks. Anyone have any thoughts on how to repair the plastic holder for the remote that sits on the back of the set? It got broken in transport to MI. pic here: http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5418&size=big&cat=503

Adam,

If you still have all the pieces, try a super glue for plastic. After applying, fit the pieces, one at a time, securely together. Be aware, super type glue bonds almost instantly. Available at most home stores.

-Steve D.

Adam
04-04-2009, 08:41 AM
I should have added that the areas that broke off broke into many small pieces (not just 2 or 3, more like 10-20), because it broke into so many pieces (and the unit itself got bent out of shape) I didn't think it was possible to glue back together. I didn't keep the pieces.

Steve D.
04-04-2009, 02:10 PM
I should have added that the areas that broke off broke into many small pieces (not just 2 or 3, more like 10-20), because it broke into so many pieces (and the unit itself got bent out of shape) I didn't think it was possible to glue back together. I didn't keep the pieces.

Adam,

Sounds like you're SOL with repairing that remote holder. To keep the set original, maybe there's an AK'er with one that was salvaged off a scrapped CTC-10. I think the RCA remote sets started with the CTC-7. Maybe the remote holder was included on these sets through the CTC-11 or later. That will increase your odds of finding a holder. I'll bet 99% of the folks that were fortunate enough to own a Remote CTC-10 never replaced the remote in that holder anyway. Just left it on top of the set or on the coffee table.

-Steve D.

kx250rider
04-05-2009, 10:47 AM
I don't think I've seen an early one myself. Looks different from the later ones... I've seen plenty of the pockets for the CTC-16, etc. I had a CTC-9 remote set, and I don't remember a holder. Probably a weak spot.

BTW: When did you move to MI? Sorry to see a local collector leave, but anyone leaving SoCal is probably very wise!

Charles

Adam
04-10-2009, 11:00 PM
I moved out here a few weeks ago. I took all my sets, but left my cars in CA. But I did take with me all the tools and furniture that I inherited from my grandfather, now that I'm in a large enough place to fit it all. Here's some pictures of my sets in my new living room: http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5415&size=big&cat= http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5437&size=big&cat=503
I figured there was no good way to repair that holder, but I thought I would ask, as I had seen posts on here where people were making knobs and working with plastic in ways I was not that familiar with, and I thought there might be some process I was unaware of which would repair this. But then, I never kept it in the holder either...

jeyurkon
04-11-2009, 10:47 PM
I like your 721TS!
John

kx250rider
04-12-2009, 10:52 AM
I moved out here a few weeks ago. I took all my sets, but left my cars in CA. But I did take with me all the tools and furniture that I inherited from my grandfather, now that I'm in a large enough place to fit it all. Here's some pictures of my sets in my new living room: http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5415&size=big&cat= http://www.audiokarma.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5437&size=big&cat=503



Congratulations on a definite move up! I'm sorry to see a local Los Angeles collector gone, but I think you did well to get out, and not stay in SoCal with the way things are going here. Kay and I were at her house in Dallas for the past 10 days, and I was really sorry to leave and come back to LA. Once you spend any time away from the rude, crude, dirty SoCal hustle-'n-bustle, you really get a good view of what's up. I was born here in Los Angeles, so it's my home, but that and the weather are the only reasons I'm still here. And those may not keep me here much longer. Texas or bust:banana:!

Charles

Telecolor 3007
05-03-2009, 01:45 PM
I don't know if a C.T.C.-10, but still intresting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCYX2eooEVo&feature=related :banana:

Adam
10-02-2009, 12:35 PM
I fell asleep on the couch watching Rockford on the ctc10, and woke up in the middle of the night to the set making a horrible noise, with a very dim picture and no vert sync. :no: I'll post more later when I have a look at it.

Phil Nelson
10-02-2009, 01:49 PM
Here's some pictures of my sets in my new living room
Like that Westinghouse. All I have is the pencil holder :)

http://antiqueradio.org/art/WestinghouseTVPencilBox.jpg

Phil Nelson

zenithfan1
10-02-2009, 04:08 PM
I fell asleep on the couch watching Rockford on the ctc10, and woke up in the middle of the night to the set making a horrible noise, with a very dim picture and no vert sync. :no: I'll post more later when I have a look at it.

Good luck with her, I hope it's not too bad. It always seems to happen when they're unattended for some reason.......

Adam
10-03-2009, 09:14 PM
So the problem is the wire wrapped around the flyback to feed filament voltage to the HV rectifier is arcing to the chassis right where it wraps around the flyback. What kind of wire do I need to replace this?

Also I checked some tubes while I had it apart, and noticed the focus rectifier is weak, then I noticed that it's a 2AV2, and there's supposed to be a 1V2 in there. I don't know what affect this had, but the picture would shrink on the left side if I turned the brightness way up, I wonder if this was the cause. I figure I'll put a new 1V2 in there, and also check the cathode current in the HO tube and the HV (which I never did on this set) before I put it back together. And maybe also touch up the convergence.

Adam
10-04-2009, 05:03 PM
I found where I had some of the 2nd anode crt HV leads saved from junk chassis. Some of them look long enough that I'm thinking they might work as a replacement for this.

Between this problem with the ctc-10 and the convergence gone all wonky on my Zenith, I don't have a working color set at all now.

Adam
10-05-2009, 06:35 PM
I replaced that wire and it's working again. Exchanging the weak 2AV2 with a good 1V2 made no difference.

Adam
10-05-2009, 08:18 PM
The HV was right at 24kv, but the HO tube cathode current was way up around 240ma, adjustment could only bring it down to about 215.

Adam
10-05-2009, 09:54 PM
I redid the convergence, it turns out it had gone off mainly because the convergence yoke had somehow managed to turn off center.

Adam
10-05-2009, 11:21 PM
I noticed I had my meter not set all the way to zero, when it was off. I hardly ever use this one, but with a 600ma scale it is better than all my others for this which only have 100, or 1000ma scales. Cathode current is actually at about 200ma, so I'm just going to put this set all back together now.

Adam
10-06-2009, 12:17 AM
Now I can watch Rockford in color again. :banana:

DaveWM
10-06-2009, 07:35 AM
looks great. I am on the prowl for a color set so I can get my Rockford fix in color some day :)